Beauty
March 10, 2015
Monitor Report | Kentaro Matsuo (Editor-in-Chief, Sekai Bunka Publishing "MEN'S EX")_Vol.1
Truefitt & Hill: A Monitor Report
Kentaro Matsuo, Editor-in-Chief of Sekai Bunka Publishing’s MEN'S EX_Vol.1
Trying My Hand at Wet Shaving
Emile Yamano, whom I’ve taken to calling my “life mentor” out of sheer admiration for his impeccable style, was introducing another European institution to Japan, following his work with Santa Maria Novella in Italy. This time, it was the world’s oldest barber shop, located on London’s St. James’s Street. Its name: Truefitt & Hill. I’d never heard of it, but if Yamano-san recommended it, it had to be good. I was sure it would be a place of great taste and excitement.
Text by Kentaro MatsuoPhotos by Natsuko Seki
An Unexpected Opportunity Arrives in April
A while later, a press release arrived, detailing the shop’s illustrious history dating back to 1805. Its claim as the world’s oldest barber shop was no mere boast; its roster of past clients included luminaries like Churchill and Oscar Wilde. Many passengers aboard the Titanic were also patrons, and when the ship was salvaged, a considerable number of Truefitt & Hill’s products were recovered along with it.
The release also showcased the various grooming items currently offered by Truefitt & Hill: colognes, aftershaves, shaving creams, and more, all presented in elegantly classic, shimmering bottles.
As I was drooling over them, thinking, “I’d love to try these, but they must be expensive,” an unexpected offer landed in my lap. They proposed sending a complete wet shaving set and asked for my impressions. It was a stroke of pure luck. “Yes, with pleasure!” I accepted without hesitation (and here I am, writing this…).
That said, I have virtually no experience with the act of wet shaving itself.
Wet shaving was something you had done for you at the barber, not something you did yourself. For my generation (currently 42), most men probably use electric razors at home. Even the few who prefer wet shaving likely use canned foam. Truefitt & Hill’s products, however, require the traditional method of lathering.

I Chose the "1805" Series
With a slight sense of trepidation, I awaited the arrival of the set. Soon, a large cardboard box arrived, brimming with grooming goods: a T-handle razor, a shaving brush, specialized cream, soap, and more, all packed tightly. This was my first time owning any of these items. Both the razor and the brush felt satisfyingly weighty in my hand. They exuded an air of luxury, much to the delight of this easily impressed editor.
And then, a beautiful fragrance filled the air. Truefitt & Hill offers four core scents, with a wide range of items available for each.
I had pre-selected the “1805” series. It’s said to be the closest to the original scent, but it strikes me as complex and modern. The top notes are somewhat reminiscent of L’Eau d’Issey. I learned that the recipe is subtly adjusted over time to suit the era.
An editor’s nature compels them to try new things as soon as they acquire them. I immediately set out to try wet shaving. The crucial first step is softening the beard. Beards are remarkably stiff; when dry, they have a hardness comparable to copper wire. Therefore, it’s essential to moisten the beard, making it as soft as possible to facilitate a smooth shave. This is typically done by applying a hot towel.
However, preparing a hot towel at home can be quite a hassle. Boiling water in a steamer and then steaming a towel is time-consuming, and handling boiling water is inconvenient. After some deliberation, I decided to skip the hot towel (My apologies, Yamano-san…). Instead, I took a shower. I always shower in the morning, so I figured shaving immediately afterward would ensure my beard was sufficiently softened.


Lathering Proves Tricky
Next, I attempted to lather the shaving cream using the brush. Both shaving cream and shaving soap are available, but the cream is said to be gentler on the skin. (Still, the soap in its wooden case has a certain stylish appeal. I aspire to switch to that eventually).
Lacking a bowl, I placed a small amount of cream in my palm, added a bit of hot water from the tap to the tip of the brush, and started whisking. The viscous cream quickly turned watery, and white foam splattered everywhere. It seemed I had used too much water.
This time, I reduced the amount of hot water and tried again. While it produced fine foam, it was far from the fluffy, creamy texture I expected. I tried whipping it at an angle to incorporate air, but it didn’t make much difference. I continued for a while until my wrist started to ache, so I decided to give up.
The brush is applied perpendicular to the skin, and the cream is worked in with circular motions. Badger hair is considered the finest for brushes; it’s firm yet has fine tips, capable of cleansing pores. The unique sensation on the skin was both ticklish and pleasant. Perhaps because the brush hairs are so fine, the cream applied took on a somewhat creamy consistency, resulting in a passable finish.
Experiencing the True Joy of Shaving
Once the cream was applied all over my face, it was time for the T-handle razor. The handle is Truefitt & Hill’s original, but the blade is made by Gillette, meaning replacement blades are readily available anywhere. It’s a triple-blade model, looking exceptionally sharp.
For the first pass, I moved the razor in the direction of hair growth. While shaving, I stretched the skin with my free hand to avoid nicks. I followed the order: right sideburns, left sideburns, jawline, upper cheeks, and finally, the area above my lip. I once read that a person’s movements during such tasks are unconsciously determined. Just like the order in which one washes their body in the shower, everyone has a consistent, ingrained routine.
For a closer shave, the second pass was against the direction of hair growth. With practice, one can learn to rotate the handle with their fingertips, allowing for both with-grain and against-grain passes in one fluid motion. The ability to feel one’s own improvement is one of the great pleasures of shaving.


After rinsing my face, I checked for any missed spots. I tend to miss the area just below my nostrils. I stretched the skin on my upper lip and shaved carefully. I also took the opportunity to shave the upper part of my cheeks and between my eyebrows. If left unchecked, my eyebrows tend to merge, giving me a Frida Kahlo-esque appearance.
After another rinse, I towel-dried my face and applied the aftershave lotion. I dispensed a generous amount into my palm and patted it onto my cheeks. The strong sensation was invigorating. Enjoying the stinging sensation of aftershave is a masculine privilege, apparently due to the high alcohol content.
From stepping into the shower to this point, the entire process took me exactly four minutes and thirty seconds. It was considerably shorter than I had anticipated. Cleaning the used tools was also simple: just rinse the razor and brush with water and hang them to dry. This makes it feasible to maintain as a daily routine.
Most importantly, the feeling of refreshment afterward is unparalleled. My cheeks felt incredibly smooth, and the closeness of the shave was markedly superior to that of an electric razor. I found myself instinctively stroking my chin, tempted to utter, “Hmm, [something like] Freedom…”
It has now been about two weeks since I started wet shaving. It has become a firm habit in my daily life. That I, a notorious procrastinator, have become so engrossed is a testament to the profound allure of Truefitt & Hill. In my next installment, I will share the various benefits I’ve discovered while continuing to use Truefitt & Hill products – the “pluses” of shaving.
Kentaro Matsuo’s Blog
BEST DRESSER’S RECON
The Best Dressed Men Encountered by the Editor-in-Chief of MEN'S EX
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/mens_ex_sekaibunkasha
