Beauty
March 11, 2015
The History of the World's Oldest Barbershop (Part 2: The 20th Century)
THE STORY OF TRUEFITT&HILL
The History of the World's Oldest Barbershop (Part 2: The 20th Century)
The Prosperity and Glory of Truefitt & Hill, with 100 Staff Members
The history of Truefitt & Hill, the world's oldest barbershop, began in 1805. This second installment, officially introducing Truefitt & Hill to Japan, delves into the 20th century.
1905: Celebrating the 100th Anniversary in Style
Photographs from the 19th century capture the masculinity and femininity of the era. Fabrics became more colorful, ushering in an age of rich and expressive fashion.
Remarkable items from that period were also discovered in Truefitt's archives: richly decorated ceramic pots and small boxes, once owned by loyal Truefitt customers. Inside these vessels were Truefitt pomades and hair styling products, along with exquisite handmade leather goods crafted by Truefitt artisans, and perfumes bearing a label indicating their limited edition status, all housed in heavy leather-bound boxes. Also found was a "Toiletry Club" membership ticket for Bond Street, which served as a taxi voucher worth two shillings for nearby journeys. The walls of the "Toiletry Club" featured hand-carved bronze plates, similar to those on the entrance bookshelf, meticulously depicting the era, conveying a sense of its long history and distinguished atmosphere.
In 1905, the company celebrated its 100th anniversary at its premises at 13-14 Old Bond Street. This impressive three-story establishment occupied a floor space approximately three times larger than its neighbors, presenting a facade that appeared to span two shops from the street. During this time, Walter, the son of H.P. Truefitt, took over as the fourth-generation leader. In 1911, the decision was made to close the shop at 1 New Bond Street.
The Barber Chair
The connection with the British Royal Family dates back to the time of George III and IV, for whom they were wig makers. Subsequently, they provided hairdressing, haircutting services, and perfumes to William IV and Queen Victoria. In the early 1900s, the preeminent chiropodist, Sally MBO, joined the company and served as a Truefitt staff member for the next 55 years. During Sally's tenure, he provided services to George V, George VI, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Elizabeth II, the Duke of Windsor, and Princess Margaret.
Sally's reputation was exceptional; he received invitations to Balmoral Castle and spent four weeks there annually as a guest of the Royal Family. He occasionally accompanied them to church and was frequently invited as a guest to royal ballets, with numerous records detailing his time spent with Queen Elizabeth II in particular.
Truefitt staff eagerly awaited postcards from Sally, filled with news and anecdotes about the Royal Family. A testament to their close relationship is an anecdote where Sally offered candid advice to Queen Elizabeth after a ball. When the Queen mentioned her tired feet after the event, Sally, the foot care specialist, replied, "Your feet are not the problem, Your Majesty. Your brand-new, high-fashion shoes are the issue." Queen Elizabeth, with a slight smile, responded, "Sally, you know nothing about fashion. It's important to wear high-fashion shoes, even if they're a bit tight."
Clients Who Cherished Truefitt
Truefitt's clients also played a crucial role in staff recruitment. Customers would sometimes bring in individuals they deemed suitable for Truefitt. For instance, a loyal Truefitt patron, visiting the perfume counter at Harrods, noticed a charming young saleswoman and discreetly said to her, "A beautiful woman like you should work at Truefitt. That way, I could see you more often."
King George V and Tsar Nicholas II of Russia
The woman's name was Christine Drew. She joined Truefitt in 1911 and remained with the company for 62 years. She had many admirers among both clients and staff, recognized as one of the best manicurists. After shop hours, a limousine would wait for her, and she was often invited to glamorous parties, becoming an indispensable figure in high society. One of Truefitt's esteemed clients even gifted her a house in Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, as a token of gratitude. While she helped him overcome his nail-biting habit, the method she employed remains a secret.
Her work became so renowned that she received direct appointments from King George V. His cousin, Tsar Nicholas II, also visited Truefitt when in London, like other European royals and aristocrats, and always sought her services.
The Sinking of the Titanic...
Anecdotes surrounding Truefitt are endless, and some even connect to historical tragedies. One such event is the sinking of the luxurious liner Titanic in 1912. Truefitt lost many of its customers, and subsequent underwater explorations discovered a large quantity of Truefitt products. Some of the containers recovered from the Titanic are now exhibited at the New York Maritime Museum and the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, UK.
On April 29, 1916, the Walter Truefitt Charity for Hairdressers was established. This fund served as an intermediary organization to support pensions for retired hairdressers and continues to play a vital role as a charitable group today. Eligibility for this aid was not limited to elderly or disabled hairdressers not receiving government assistance; their character was also a factor in the assessment. To apply for the Walter Truefitt Fund, one had to be a hairdresser, a former hairdresser, or the wife of a hairdresser residing in the UK.
In 1935, Walter Truefitt acquired and merged with the barbershop founded by Edwin Hill in 1911. Located at 23 Old Bond Street, H.P. Truefitt LTD relocated to this address in 1935, subsequently changing its company name to Truefitt & Hill, marking a new beginning. The branch stores were also renamed Truefitt & Hill in 1941.
Truefitt & Hill During and After the War
Truefitt & Hill shared a steadfast policy with London's Windmill Theatre: they never closed. Even during the Blitz of World War II, Truefitt & Hill remained open. If bombs struck the main store, operations continued from a temporary location in Burlington Gardens. Gentlemen visiting Bond Street for Truefitt's services were directed to this temporary shop, ensuring their impeccable grooming was maintained throughout the war.
During that era, Truefitt & Hill was a destination for servicemen and politicians with a fighting spirit, and a place pilots would visit before boarding their aircraft. There was, however, one occasion when Truefitt & Hill ceased operations: to mourn the passing of Winston Churchill, a legendary British statesman and great writer, who was a valued client.
Even during the World Wars, all of Truefitt & Hill's fragrances were manufactured without alteration. The perfumer, Rutland, extracted essences from numerous raw materials and blended them in his basement at home. Rutland had been with T&H since 1895, serving for 66 years. His expertise was passed on to Ms. Joyce, who herself later gained renown as a perfumer.
By 1948, Truefitt & Hill was thriving, with over 100 staff members. This included 55 barbers, 12 manicurists, along with managers, assistant managers, consultants, cleaning staff, maintenance personnel, front desk staff, accountants, bookkeepers, post boys, and inventory clerks. Truefitt had long contributed to the world of hairdressing. In 1952, E.R. Dafoe, Chairman of Truefitt & Hill, became Chairman of the Hairdressers' Benevolent Fund. His predecessor in that role was Henry Paul Truefitt.
Winston Churchill
Celebrating Truefitt & Hill's 150th Anniversary
On Friday, October 28, 1955, a celebration was held at the Criterion Restaurant in Piccadilly to mark the 150th anniversary, and a commemorative plate was unveiled. General Montgomery, who unveiled it, is reported to have said, "It may be difficult for me to unveil the plate for the next 150th anniversary, but at least I hope I won't be in hell myself."
Dinner invitation for the 150th anniversary celebration
General Montgomery giving a speech
General Montgomery had long been a client of Truefitt & Hill, dating back to his days at the Royal Military Academy. After the successful North African campaign, he required a new hairbrush and sent propeller material from a German fighter plane to Truefitt, commissioning them to create hairbrushes for himself and Supreme Commander Eisenhower.
The General received his custom hairbrush the day before the invasion of Europe began. He signed the Truefitt & Hill delivery note and sent it back, reportedly saying, "I will take this to Berlin (even if it means ignoring Hitler's existence)."
As the war neared its end, General Montgomery visited Truefitt & Hill, where E.R. Dafoe asked him, "General, I am not surprised you visited Berlin. But how did you have the time to sign the delivery note the day before the invasion, when you received the brush?" The General replied, "It was an exceptionally good hairbrush, and I had prepared beforehand."
Later, during a visit, the General presented gifts to veteran staff members like Sally, Drew, and Woodland, expressing his respect and gratitude for their long service.
Eight Prestigious Establishments of Britain
Throughout its long history, Truefitt & Hill has served the British Royal Family, aristocracy, and gentlemen. For over 200 years, it has remained a Royal Warrant holder, a testament to its trust. Truefitt & Hill's reputation extended across the Atlantic to North America. A clipping of an article from the NY Times caught the eye of a barber working at Chicago's Drake Hotel. This led him to visit the London shop one day and directly propose opening a T&H branch in Toronto.
Truefitt & Hill Today
In 1993, Truefitt & Hill relocated its store to St. James's Street. This street, lined with venerable purveyors of gentlemen's goods, is not only renowned but also close to the Palace, dotted with long-standing gentlemen's clubs like White's and Boodle's, remaining a central hub of the 'Clubland' for gentlemen. It is also near St. James's Palace and, concurrently, the heart of London's craftsmanship. On the south side of the street, eight historic establishments are clustered: John Lobb for shoes, James Lock for hats, D.R. Harris for pharmacy, William Evans for firearms, James J. Fox and Robert Lewis for the world's oldest cigar merchants, and Berry Bros. & Rudd and Justerini & Brooks for wine merchants. Their combined history spans 1700 years.
The party celebrating Truefitt & Hill's 190th anniversary was as splendid as its distinguished clientele would suggest. Message cards arrived from the Royal Family, including Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother at Clarence House, St. James's Palace, the Duke of Edinburgh, and Prince Andrew, as well as from members of the House of Lords and the House of Commons.
This prestige is undeniably shaped by generations of accumulated trust. The current connection with the British Royal Family involves barbers Dennis and Windy visiting Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle to provide services to the Duke of Edinburgh. Truefitt's policy generally excludes visiting clients' homes; however, an exception is made for the Duke of Edinburgh. Naturally, other members of the Royal Family are requested to visit the St. James's establishment.
