Miya Shinma's book "Love Begins with Scent," and the sakura-scented hand cream, a gift from her, perfumed by Ms. Shinma herself.

France Seeks an Unattainable Allure,
Japan Prefers Conformity and Pheromones

Kaori NakanoNaturally, the culture surrounding perfume differs when the position of a perfumer varies. But how does Japanese perfume culture appear to Ms. Shinma?

Miya ShinmaI have my sister send me perfume catalogs available in Japan.
Hmm, the offerings seem like they'll all disappear within a year or two (laughs). I think it's a unique Japanese culture, but I strongly feel there's no foundation, no real perfume culture.

NakanoDon't Japanese journalists always ask, "What do you recommend?" (laughs)

ShinmaYes. But it's impossible to choose from a catalog. That way of asking is uniquely Japanese. A fragrance has no meaning if it doesn't suit the wearer, so how can I recommend something vaguely aimed at an unspecified majority...

NakanoCategories like "attracting others" or "being loved" also stem from a Japanese way of thinking.

ShinmaI'd never even heard of "pheromone-infused perfumes" (laughs). The French understand what pheromones are. They can master perfume precisely because they have that kind of culture.

NakanoUm, please tell me, what are these pheromones that the French know so well? (laughs)

ShinmaThey don't even use the word "pheromones."AllureIt's about a person's unique aura or charm. The French know how to present themselves to attract the opposite sex. They naturally incorporate scent as one element in creating that charm. That's why they meticulously select and master fragrances that enhance their own appeal.

NakanoHow do they learn such things?

ShinmaThe French receive proper sensory education from a young age. They understand that the sense of smell, among the five senses, is crucial in daily life.That fragrance can profoundly influence life, being both mysterious and practical,is something they grasp.

NakanoIn Japan, perhaps it's more about visual and auditory input. People choose perfumes after seeing them in magazine features or hearing that a celebrity uses them. The criteria aren't internal but external. Also,as a charmthere's a strong tendency to buy them. If they hear there's a "perfume that helps you get married" (laughs), everyone rushes to buy it. That's why you see the peculiar phenomenon of young women in their 20s all doused in "Baby Doll."

ShinmaRushing to buy the same thing as everyone else is unthinkable in France. They value "uniqueness" above all else and seek "something no one else has." Even if it's something others have, there's always a reason. I've never heard "because it helps you get married" as a reason, though (laughs).

NakanoPerhaps it's the result of the media, or the sellers, working hard to devise reasons for people to buy.

ShinmaJapanese people are honest, or perhaps obedient. They readily follow what the media says.

NakanoThey don't view it with irony. I think there are truly many consumers who accept it at face value, straightforwardly.

ShinmaBeing honest is a charming trait, but in Paris, not asserting oneself too much is interpreted asabandoning the effort to cultivate one's allureand is seen as a lack of effort.

NakanoIn Japan, if you assert yourself strongly, you get bullied.

Editorial Assistant MakotoThat's why it's "slightly wicked," not "very wicked" (laughs).

ShinmaEven the Japanese way of enjoying incense, for example, is about enjoying the space together as a group. It's not about asserting "I am here with my scent." It's a style of shared enjoyment.

at Asuka Shinsha

Beware of Scent Mismatches

NakanoWhat about French men? How do they approach wearing perfume?

ShinmaIt's like brushing their teeththey use perfume.

NakanoLike brushing their teeth!

ShinmaAs part of grooming, they always apply it after showering. About 90% of people use it. It's that common. Beyond that, personal preference is very strong. They have their favorite, regardless of what anyone else says, because they like it.

Nakano"My scent is this" (laughs). Once they reach that point, the fragrance becomes their very personality.

ShinmaYes, in France, that's fundamentally what perfume is. You can sense a person's character from their scent. It's as ifthe scent and the person meld together to form a single personality.

NakanoThen, giving perfume as a gift must be quite an adventure. You'd have to know the person very well to choose one.

ShinmaYes, exchanging perfumes as gifts among close friends is popular, but it can even lead to breakups.

NakanoWhat!?





ShinmaA friend of mine, the man gave his girlfriend a perfume, but it wasn't one she usually wore. That angered her. She said, "You don't understand me at all. We're breaking up."

NakanoThe reason for the breakup was"a scent mismatch."!

ShinmaIt's like saying, "If I like it, you should remember my scent and like it too."

NakanoDoesn't that kind of scent, so intertwined with a person, become something you detest the moment you break up?

Shinma(Laughs) Yet, if you encounter its lingering scent somewhere, you might recall it. Oh, I have a lovely memory of a scent gift. The sender had lightly applied their favorite perfume to the gift. It felt like their presence arrived with it, and I was so happy.

NakanoConveying one's presence through scent like that is an advanced technique, only for the experts. The other day, I had the chance to see the results of a perfume survey in a men's magazine, and there was a striking response from a woman: "When he leaves, I spray perfume all over the room so he won't miss me when I'm not there. Even opening the window doesn't get rid of the smell for a while, it's quite a nuisance" (laughs). Because it's so directly linked to personality, if a scent is unpleasant, it can lead to the person themselves being disliked. I realized that.

ShinmaConcentration is also important.That man must have left quite a lot behind. Jasmine, too, can become similar to an unpleasant body odor if it's too strong. It's important to use any fragrance skillfully, paying attention to its concentration.

NakanoIs it like how any personality becomes overbearing if it's too intense? (laughs)


profile
Miya Shinma
Perfumer

In 1997, she moved to France to pursue her dream of becoming a perfumer, studying under Monique Shelienger at Cinquieme Sens.
Since her work was featured at Le Bon Marché, a Parisian department store, in 2000, she has been based in Paris, creating fragrances themed around Japanese beauty, nature, and love.
Her activities in Japan include holding scent workshops and events.
In 2003, she established Cinquieme Sens Japon, the Japanese branch of her alma mater perfume school, where she offers various courses ranging from the basics of scent to creating original perfumes and the aromas of food.
(Excerpt from homepage)

Miya Shinma Homepage
http://miyashinma.jp/index.html