Why Don't Japanese Men Suit Suits?

HozumiWestern suits were introduced in the late Edo period, weren't they? Even though Japanese people have worn them for the same amount of time as Westerners, why don't they suit us? Our physiques have improved, so it's not that they *can't* suit us. That's what I find problematic.

NakanoPerhaps it's because our fundamental way of thinking about clothing is different?

HozumiI believe fashion should be approached as a form of education, but Japan lacks that perspective. Spending money on superficial things is often seen as the beginning of bad behavior.

NakanoThere's a deep-seated notion that paying attention to one's attire is frivolous and embarrassing.

HozumiIn the Edo period, society functioned on the principle of wealthy individuals spending money. Once we adopted Western clothing, that mindset disappeared, replaced by an ideology of equality. Wearing something different would draw stares.

NakanoSuits also tend to promote that idea of 'everyone must be equal,' don't they?

NakanoThe art historian Anne Hollander unequivocally states, 'Suits are sexy' in her book 'Sex and Suits,' which I translated about ten years ago.

HozumiMen themselves have misunderstood this for a long time. Men didn't think suits were sexy.

NakanoThey are sexy precisely because the wearer likely doesn't realize it. The moment a hint of 'I'm sexy' appears, it's off-putting by about a hundred meters.

What's the Source of Mr. Hozumi's 'Pleasant Scent'?

HozumiDo you like perfume? I haven't seen 'Otokokaoru Gum' (Men's Fragrant Gum), but it piques my interest.

NakanoMr. Hozumi, are you meticulous about grooming? Your skin is so radiant.

HozumiI hardly use any cosmetics, just aftershave lotion. When I wear it to give lectures at a women's university, several students ask, 'Sensei, you smell nice. What perfume are you wearing?'

NakanoWhat do you use?

HozumiI don't wear perfume. Just aftershave. Tommy Hilfiger.

NakanoOh, that's a youthful brand.

HozumiThe co-eds told me I smelled good. It was just aftershave, but I secretly bought an eau de cologne.

NakanoHow... cute! (laughs)

HozumiAs you get older, you develop body odor, so you have to be careful.

NakanoApparently, it comes from the back of the neck.

HozumiSo, I should wash my neck thoroughly and wait? (laughs)

NakanoWhy did you choose Tommy Hilfiger in the first place?

The Balance Between Price and Satisfaction

HozumiThen there are watches. Recently, there are many books featuring amazing watches.

NakanoIn the world of luxury watches, there's no upper limit. Watches that cost as much as a condominium seem to be appearing more and more.

HozumiFor me, functionality comes first. I want a watch with hands that move, a dial that's easy to read, one that's durable and won't have its plating wear off. For around 10,000 to 20,000 yen, I just need it to tell the time.

NakanoWhat are you wearing now?

HozumiI found it in Sangenjaya. It's very easy to read. The design is plain, not particularly good design, but that's precisely why I don't have to consciously think about it. And it only cost 1,029 yen! It's a Citizen. I used to think watches had to be expensive, but I feel that if a 1,000-yen watch is useful, then that's perfectly fine.

NakanoPlease sound a warning against the overheated watch boom that's numbed our sense of price! (laughs)

HozumiBut with pipes, the more expensive Dunhill ones smoke better.

NakanoIs it that they taste better because you think 'It's a Dunhill,' rather than the pipe itself?

HozumiNo, when I've tried smoking various pipes, Dunhill really does smoke the best. I dropped and lost it, which was a terrible regret.

NakanoIt's strange how the expensive items we really like are often the ones we lose.

HozumiThat's how you learn about the pros and cons of brands through experience. Not just buying something because of the name.

NakanoPeople who wear ridiculously expensive watches say that good watches are indeed different. I'm sure a 50-million-yen watch has merits commensurate with its price.

HozumiPride, perhaps. If you're satisfied, then that's fine. It all comes down to whether you can be satisfied yourself.

What Should Be Added to the Conditions of Dandyism

NakanoThere's a certain reluctance to use the word 'dandy' these days, isn't there? What was it like in the past?

HozumiMen who had a certain social standing and good taste dressed impeccably. Others didn't feel envious but accepted it. This was before the war.

NakanoWhat were men who dressed with such privilege called?

HozumiHmm, I wonder... Perhaps 'Date'...? Speaking of which, there was a cavalry officer in the army, Baron Nishi, a baron who won an Olympic gold medal in equestrianism.

NakanoBaron Nishi! Takeichi Nishi. Clint Eastwood directed the film 'Letters from Iwo Jima,' where he was played by Ken Watanabe...

HozumiHis riding gear was all Hermès. He was an Oriental prince who captivated European high society. Such a man was sent to Iwo Jima and died in battle. He didn't have to die.

NakanoIt was a true tragedy...

HozumiHe was from the nobility. While wealth is certainly a factor, being not too young is also a condition for dandyism.

NakanoNot too young. Indeed. Men who have passed their peak, whose flashiness has subsided, seem to suit fashion better.

What is Luxury?

NakanoRegarding luxury, or 'luxe,' what are your thoughts? Compared to before the war, extravagant lifestyles have become commonplace. What constitutes luxury in such a modern era?

HozumiI wonder if there are forms of luxury that don't involve spending money, rather than just monetary extravagance. Without resorting to 'noble poverty,' of course.

NakanoThat's important. When people talk about luxury without spending money, it sometimes leads to discussions like 'eating congee after fasting for a day,' which feels a bit off.

HozumiI think it might be possible depending on one's mindset. In Japan today, I don't see any wealthy people who are truly luxurious and have good taste (laughs).

NakanoWell, if the person themselves likes it...

HozumiPerhaps it's a lifelong quest. In the world of Japanese tradition, there are festivals and invitations to geisha houses. My 'danna' attire is an extension of cosplay.

NakanoI believe luxury is also about enjoying the extraordinary. And cosplay is certainly effective for experiencing that sense of the extraordinary, isn't it?

HozumiThe other day, in front of some geishas, I casually mentioned wanting to see 'Sukeroku' from a box seat at the Kabuki theater. The next day, I got a call saying, 'We got you seats!' right by the hanamichi.

NakanoThat's amazing!

HozumiI wore my finest kimono, and the geishas had their traditional hairstyles.

NakanoIt wasn't anachronistic, was it? You were fitting into the era of the Kabuki world.

HozumiApparently, I was quite the talk backstage. 'Who is that?' they must have wondered. But the next day, they apparently said, 'It's boring without that kind of cosplay audience today' (laughs).

NakanoThe performers must also feel more engaged when the audience is putting in that kind of effort.

HozumiDuring the intermission, people in the audience started taking photos of me with their phones.

NakanoLike a zoo exhibit.

HozumiBut I enjoyed being wondered about, 'Who are they?' Not actors, not storytellers...

NakanoYou certainly had a presence! (laughs)

HozumiIt was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but it was quite an undertaking. After the show, I had to have dinner, and there were fees for the geishas... But even though I spent nearly 100,000 yen, I didn't feel like I'd lost much, considering I'm satisfied with a 1,000-yen watch.

NakanoDon't limit it to once in a lifetime; please do it again sometime.

HozumiIt was a day I could truly feel the luxury.

NakanoAh, I've heard some wonderful stories.