Beauty
May 8, 2015
Kazuo Hozumi x Kaori Nakano: What is Japanese Masculine Dandyism? (2)
An Interview with Kazuo Hozumi (2)
What is Dandysim for Japanese Men?
By Kaori NakanoPhoto by Jamandfix
Kimono as Cosplay Expands the Possibilities
NakanoThere's a particular kind of dandyism associated with suits, isn't there? Expressing one's individuality within a framework of restraint. What are the aesthetic values of kimono?
HozumiWhen I wear a suit, I choose and wear it with a similar sensibility.
NakanoWhat prompted you to start wearing kimono in the first place, Mr. Hozumi?
HozumiIt started with something trivial. I was commissioned to illustrate an Edo-period novel for a newspaper, which involved drawing kimono. I realized I couldn't draw kimono with the same approach as Western clothing. So, I decided to try wearing it myself.
NakanoMany women who have fully explored fashion find themselves drawn to kimono.
HozumiWhile that's a factor for me too, there's also an element of cosplay. I thought, 'No one else is wearing this, so I might as well.'
NakanoI imagine many young people today feel, 'No one wears it, so I don't know how to wear it.'
HozumiSince I saw a fair amount of it growing up, I could visually understand how it was worn. And I could tell when it looked sloppy. So, for the past decade, I've been experimenting with how to wear it stylishly. That's been my focus.
NakanoIn what kinds of situations do you wear kimono?
HozumiI'm trying to increase the occasions for wearing kimono, which is why it becomes like cosplay (laughs). I go to teahouses in Gion, and I've tried tea ceremony. I did that for six months and quit. For the past five or six years, I've been studying Kouta and Shamisen. Wearing kimono has broadened my engagement with Japanese culture.
A Touch of the Suburbs Over Flashy Sophistication
NakanoAre there any key principles for wearing kimono?
HozumiThere's no inherent silhouette, so it really comes down to coordination. Having a few pieces within your budget and wearing them skillfully. For this kimono, for example, it comes as an ensemble, but I deliberately don't wear it that way. Instead, I pair it with a black haori.
NakanoIs that like a 'jacket and pants' style? Deliberately not matching the top and bottom...
HozumiThere are people who like the 'suit' feel of a matching set, those who prefer to mix and match a haori and kimono separately, and those who dislike haori altogether and only wear 'kirinagashi'. There are various approaches.
NakanoI've never heard the term 'tsui' before... Is 'kirinagashi only' like a shirt-style without a jacket?
HozumiNo, not quite.
A friend of mine, an illustrator, dislikes haori and prefers kirinagashi. His reasoning is that haori were traditionally worn by samurai, not by artisans or townsfolk, and he adheres to that distinction.
NakanoThe dandyism of the artisan, then?
HozumiI grew up in the downtown area, but I find that overly flashy 'iki' (chic) a bit embarrassing. I prefer a touch of 'yabo' (unfashionable, unsophisticated).
This 'yabo' is more like the unsophisticated style of the uptown areas, as opposed to downtown. I aspire to be like the fathers and grandfathers from the more refined neighborhoods.
NakanoThat sounds exactly like the dandyism of a Japanese man. Rejecting overly polished chic in favor of a deliberately refined, slightly unsophisticated air... A gentle, somewhat unsophisticated demeanor is indeed more appealing than being overly polished.
HozumiJust as with suits, you need to have a clear image of yourself. You must envision how you will look when wearing a kimono.
NakanoBefore that, don't many people lack a clear idea of how they *want* to be perceived?
HozumiMany Japanese men can't articulate whether they like something or not. Few can confidently say, 'I like this.' I think that's the problem. May I smoke? When I wear kimono, I smoke with this pipe.
May I smoke? When I wear kimono, I smoke with this pipe.
NakanoA kiseru pipe? I've never seen one before! And this pouch?
HozumiThis is a modern piece. Issey Miyake's Pleats Please.
Nakano'Modern,' you say... (laughs) 'Modern' versus antique? It sounds so stylish. My vocabulary has expanded considerably today (laughs).
Why Do Japanese Men at Weddings All Wear White Ties?
HozumiNo one teaches Japanese men about clothing as a form of education. Young and old alike go through life without knowing. This must be a disadvantage when working internationally in official capacities.
NakanoIt can certainly lead to embarrassing situations.
HozumiThe Ministry of Foreign Affairs has a proper guide to dress codes. Something like this needs to be taught somewhere.
NakanoThere must be a difference between learning about it when it becomes necessary and knowing it from a young age.
HozumiPerhaps only the Emperor wears formal wear correctly?
NakanoThe rules for ceremonies like weddings and funerals are also uniquely Japanese, and many seem questionable as to who established them.
HozumiAt weddings, everyone wears a black suit with a pure white tie. Who came up with that?
NakanoBecause it's all they've ever seen, people assume it's the norm. It's not necessarily 'correct,' but it's also not 'wrong' since it's become customary...
HozumiI make an effort. For funerals, I wear a gray tie, and for weddings, something gray but a bright, slightly shimmering color.
NakanoIn England, vests at weddings are often quite colorful, with embroidery – odd vests. The male guests can be quite flamboyant.
HozumiI wear a very standard gray vest.
NakanoStill, these pure white ties in Japan... Has it always been like this?
HozumiNo, it's different. There used to be no one with a white tie. Ties were diagonal, black and white, with a thin red stripe. Then, somehow, it became entirely white.
Publisher OI heard that Kindwear established the rules for formal wear in Japan.
NakanoWhoever thought of that deserves credit. It seems to have perfectly suited the Japanese lack of confidence.
HozumiWearing a black suit as semi-formal wear offers versatility. White signifies celebration, while black signifies the opposite.
Publisher OI've never seen a pure white tie in America or Europe.
HozumiThey say they find it strange. 'A legion of white ties is intimidating.' Unfortunately, I don't own a single one...
NakanoWeddings could perhaps afford to be more festive and varied.