Part 4: How to Enjoy Perfumer-Created Fragrances: A Practical Guide

Part 4
Enjoying Perfumer-Created Fragrances: A Practical Guide

At the Isetan Men's Building fragrance counter. photo by IDEGUCHI Keiko

Ethical Allure

Nakano“A person with a captivating presence… my inner ‘old man’ reacted and popped out (laughs). A metaphorical ‘presence’ that brightens the surroundings is welcome, but someone who reeks of perfume is a bit off-putting, don’t you think?”

Tashiro“Yes, fragrance can change quite a bit depending on how it’s applied. Is it really okay to project it outwards so strongly? People have different preferences for scents.”

Nakano“And if it’s full of synthetic musk… terrifying (laughs). By the way, Tashiro-san, where do you apply your fragrance?”

Tashiro“My stomach.”

Editor Makoto: “What?! Your stomach?”

Nakano“Ah, I understand. I apply it between my breasts (laughs).”

Tashiro“The front of the body, in other words, for your own enjoyment of the scent, right?”

Nakano“Exactly, precisely. It’s a place where I can best savor the fragrance myself.”

Editor Makoto: “But don’t most people use perfume to attract the opposite sex?”

Tashiro“Hmm… When the scent makes you feel uplifted, energized, and confident. And as a result of that self-confidence, it leads to attraction. How about that? (laughs)”

Nakano“Wonderful! That’s far more ‘ethical’ than the logic of viewing the opposite sex as lower animals and drawing them in with pheromones!”

What Tashiro is holding is “Marrakesh,” said to be the most popular at the counter right now. An exotic, spicy scent. photo by IDEGUCHI Keiko

Tashiro“We sometimes have customers at the counter ask for a scent that will help them pass a job interview. While we introduce generally popular citrus or aquatic notes, we also ask about their preferences to help them choose. Ultimately, if you don’t find it pleasant yourself, you won’t feel confident.”

Nakano“When applying it with others in mind, perhaps one could adopt the mindset of the Heian aristocracy’s ‘tail wind preparation’ (oikaze yōi)? Applying it so it only wafts gently with the wind as you leave.”

Editor Makoto: “Oh… The Japanese have had such delicate sensibilities since ancient times…”

Fragrance and Trends

Nakano“Nowadays, with bags leading the way, there’s a strong push for trendy items that sell. Tashiro-san, do you consider fragrance trends when you make your selections?”

Tashiro“I actually try not to create trends. I aim to curate classic items, providing a sense of security that they will always be available at the counter. Some people worry about whether something will go out of style, so I feel it would be unfair to tell customers that something is no longer available.”

Nakano“Well, that’s very much like you, Tashiro-san. That counter reflects your personality too. You have a solid core that isn’t swayed by trends, which emanates a sense of cleanliness… Fashion fragrances certainly give you that ‘now!’ feeling when they’re in vogue, but they also seem to age quickly.”

Tashiro“Like a distinctly 80s scent (laughs). Fashion fragrances are meant to enhance the image of the fashion, so they serve their purpose. And indeed, fashion fragrances are what sell the most overall in the store.”

Nakano“Fragrance is also deeply connected to the wearer’s ‘personal era,’ isn’t it? Memories of being young and naive at 21, or memories of learning to let go at 33…”

Scents That Evoke New Emotions and Personalities

Frédéric Malle’s new release, “Carnal Flower.” photo by IDEGUCHI Keiko

Tashiro“The memories of that time come flooding back with the scent (laughs). Whether that’s why or not is another question, but I don’t go back to the same fragrance, even with artistic ones… When I discover something new, I move on to that.”

Nakano“Ah, me too. No matter how much I think, ‘This might be the one for life,’ by the next season, it’s no good, I can’t go back. Once I encounter a new scent.”

Tashiro“Discovering a new scent also means changing your perception of yourself, thinking, ‘It’s okay to be this kind of person too…’ For example, recently, Frédéric Malle’s new release, ‘Carnal Flower,’ had that kind of impact on me. It’s cool yet sensual. I wear it when I want to actively shift my mindset, thinking, ‘It’s okay to be this kind of person too.’”

Nakano“Exactly, fragrance has the power to change our emotions and our self-perception. That’s why, perhaps, when we discover ‘new emotional dimensions’ or ‘a self we never knew before,’ we can’t go back.”

Tashiro“That’s precisely why having several fragrances allows for the enjoyment of switching them to suit your mood. You can even change them depending on the time of day.”

Nakano“In that regard, men might be more stubborn. Once they decide on ‘my scent,’ they stick to it. While that’s also a beautiful attitude…”

Editor Makoto: “Like sticking to a navy blazer for life (laughs).”

Vocabulary for Describing Scents

Tashiro“I try to convey the various ways to enjoy fragrance to customers at the counter. However, explaining technical terms in an easily understandable way is quite challenging. I try to find ways to express it, like encouraging them to describe how it smells in their own words. The vocabulary for expressing scent is still very limited.”

Nakano“When the wine boom hit, a unique vocabulary related to wine also flooded in, didn’t it? For fragrance to take root as a culture, alongside the introduction of artistic fragrances not sold in duty-free shops, we first need a rich vocabulary surrounding scent. For example, there are lists of ingredients whose origins are hard to discern, like ‘Amber, Bulgarian Rose, Civet…’ How about explaining it like this: ‘The scent of ambergris from the stomach of a sperm whale, Bulgarian roses picked between 4:50 AM and 6:00 AM, and the secretions from the hindquarters of a civet cat that has only eaten high-quality beef, spiraling together…’”

Editor Makoto: “...That makes even less sense to me… (laughs)”

Text by Kaori Nakano
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