Beauty
January 26, 2015
Miyoji Okabe Series | Vol. 19 Tips for Managing Sensitive Skin
Miyoji Okabe's Series
Vol. 19: Understanding Sensitive Skin (Part 1)
Miyoji Okabe, who has been involved in the creation of numerous excellent cosmetics at the research and product development divisions of major cosmetic manufacturers, will explain various "beauty questions" from a scientific perspective, leveraging her unyielding pursuit of women's beauty, sharp insight, and deep knowledge as a researcher.
Text by OPENERS
Narration by Miyoji Okabe
Photos by JAMANDFIX
There are four main skin types that we must live with throughout our lives: oily, dry, combination, and normal. Separate from these, sensitive skin is a skin quality that is particularly prone to trouble. While many women suffer from problems related to sensitive skin, it seems that a surprising number actually have "self-diagnosed sensitive skin." Therefore, this time, we asked for advice on the symptoms of sensitive skin, methods for preventing skin irritation, and the optimal care for managing sensitive skin.
Do You Truly Understand Your Skin Type?
Q. What kind of skin quality does "sensitive skin" refer to?
Actually, "sensitive skin" is not medically defined. Therefore, it is a general term, not a medical one. Because there is no clear definition, many people say, "I have sensitive skin." However, dermatologists each have their own definitions, so let me give you a few examples. For instance, it can be described as "skin that is in a state of readiness to become inflamed" or "skin that is not allergic but has very low resistance to external stimuli, making it prone to skin troubles." This refers to skin that repeatedly experiences dryness or inflammation, or is prone to acne. As for cosmetic manufacturers, they perceive it as "skin with lower resistance compared to healthy skin." In other words, it's skin that is prone to troubles from cosmetics, separate from allergies. The current situation is that it's difficult to draw a clear line between healthy skin and sensitive skin, making a medical definition elusive.
Q. Are there different types of sensitive skin?
There are two types: skin that is inherently weak in resistance due to its constitution, and skin that has developed sensitive skin symptoms due to incorrect skincare. The latter is particularly common among young people, often due to misconceptions about "moisturization." Many people mistakenly believe that "moisturization means adding water," and we often hear cases where sensitive skin improved simply by consistently using lotions and creams. This means that the skin's barrier function was weakened due to improper moisturizing care. The barrier function is not an issue if a healthy stratum corneum, rich in ceramides and sebum, is formed. However, when combined with conditions like a genetic inability to produce ceramides or naturally low sebum secretion, the skin state becomes what is called "sensitive skin." If the ability to produce ceramides is impaired, the skin tends to be dry and prone to atopy, meaning it becomes more "sensitive." Another common issue recently is "self-diagnosed sensitive skin." It seems that sensitive skin is often perceived as more delicate compared to healthy, robust skin. Although it's not a good thing, as it implies a predisposition to problems... Some people who have experienced rashes or irritation from cosmetics in the past may believe they have sensitive skin, but this could have been a temporary condition, and their skin might be healthy under normal circumstances.
Q. If someone with self-diagnosed sensitive skin consistently uses products for sensitive skin, are there any problems?
The difference between cosmetics for sensitive skin and regular cosmetics lies in whether potential allergens or ingredients with even a slight possibility of causing irritation have been excluded. Even when using so-called additive-free products, you can still achieve proper moisturization, so there's no inherent problem. However, such cosmetics have restrictions on fragrances and emulsifiers, meaning you are essentially foregoing the enjoyment of scents and textures. One common misconception is about mineral oil. Mineral oil used in cosmetics can be safely used by both people with healthy skin and those with sensitive skin.
Miyoji Okabe's Series
Vol. 19: Understanding Sensitive Skin (Part 2)
Tips for Managing Sensitive Skin
Q. Are there any specific methods for preventing skin irritation?
First and foremost, avoid excessive friction. What constitutes "excessive" varies from person to person, so stop when it feels comfortable and avoid redness. The other key is thorough moisturization. The goal of daily skincare isn't to cure the inherent nature of sensitive skin, but to supplement what's lacking to bring the skin closer to a healthy state.
Q. Are there any precautions when choosing cosmetics?
Current cosmetics clearly list all their ingredients, and their safety is high. Therefore, it's important to choose manufacturers you trust. How to determine trustworthiness? For example, even if surfactants are used, they should be safe, and the manufacturer should be able to clearly explain why they are used. It's important not just to know if an ingredient is present, but also for them to be able to explain its benefits. Additionally, it's crucial to have your own allergies properly diagnosed by a dermatologist. Allergies tend to persist over the long term, so avoiding ingredients that don't suit you is key to preventing trouble.
Q. If I'm hesitant to apply a new cosmetic to my face, where should I test it?
After bathing, apply a coin-sized amount of the cosmetic to your inner arm. If no redness or itching occurs after about half a day, it should be fine. If it still causes issues on your face, wash it off immediately.
Q. Finally, please tell us how to handle skin troubles when they occur.
If you experience skin trouble, first stop using that cosmetic. If your skin condition doesn't change after two to three days of discontinuing use, consult a dermatologist. Skin irritation occurs when ingredients penetrate weakened barrier function and cause a reaction. Therefore, even if your skin feels a bit dry, it's better to refrain from using the product to prevent further trouble. Continuing to use a product that irritates your skin can sometimes lead to the development of allergies. So, it's important to make a clean break, stop using it, and seek proper treatment from a dermatologist. Another point: if a cosmetic you've been using suddenly starts causing issues, first consider the possibility of pregnancy. In fact, we've had several consultations from people who said, "My skin suddenly became sensitive," and it turned out to be due to pregnancy. This is because an increased immune response within the body can cause even previously tolerated cosmetics to suddenly irritate the skin.
Preventing skin troubles is the ultimate form of anti-aging. Therefore, minimizing skin problems is the secret to maintaining beautiful skin in the future.