WATCH & JEWELRY /
WATCH NEWS
December 3, 2020
FAVRE-LEUBA Reinterprets the 1950s with the "Sky Chief Chronograph"
FAVRE-LEUBA
Retrofuturistic Design Reimagined with Classical Colorways
Swiss watch brand Favre-Leuba, founded in 1737, has released four new colorways for its "Sky Chief Chronograph." This striking chronograph watch combines a balanced, symmetrical dial with a 14-sided bezel that adds depth, and a lustrous suede strap.
Text by OZAKI Sayaka | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
A Dress Chronograph Reinterpreting 1950s Design for Today
The new Favre-Leuba "Sky Chief Chronograph" is characterized by its powerful, three-dimensional design and a dressy appearance featuring a two-subdial chronograph. The dial is available in four colors: traditional white, autumn green reminiscent of the season's arrival, velvet black inherited from vintage pieces, and a calming burgundy. The strap, matched to the dial's color, adds a soft touch with its suede leather finish.
The 14-sided bezel, the rehaut ring around the dial's edge, and the square indices lend a three-dimensional quality to the beautiful dial. The dial, maximized within the case, is adorned with uniquely shaped square indices and hands, ensuring high legibility.
Furthermore, various thoughtful details are incorporated into unseen areas. The solid case back logo is fixed to the case without misalignment, despite being a screw-down case back. Additionally, the spring bars are positioned close to the case, allowing for comfortable wear even with a large 43mm case diameter. The case is crafted from corrosion-resistant surgical stainless steel (SUS316L), and the crystal is sapphire, meeting modern watch specifications.
The origin of this collection is the "Sea Chief," introduced in 1956. The two-subdial chronograph was a design that reached its peak from the 1940s to the 1950s and was frequently featured by Favre-Leuba. The "Sky Chief Chronograph" reconstructs this 1950s aesthetic into the retrofuturistic design characteristic of Favre-Leuba's current collection.
The movement is based on the Swiss automatic chronograph ETA7753. This is from the ETA7750 series of movements, which powered many Swiss watch brand mechanical chronographs in the 1990s. Favre-Leuba has long used Swiss ébauches( Movement )and the adoption of ETA movements aligns with the brand's history. In fact, from the 1940s to the 1950s, they adopted chronograph movements from brands like Valjoux and Venus. As these movements were produced in large numbers and many watchmakers can still repair them today, most Favre-Leuba mechanical chronographs from over 70 years ago can still be repaired and used. Based on this reality, the continued use of proven, stable ébauches, rather than in-house chronograph movements, is maintained. The ETA7753 used in the "Sky Chief Chronograph" has undergone checks for positional variations by Favre-Leuba and is adjusted to a daily rate of ±0 to +14 seconds.
Sky Chief Chronograph
- Ref. | 00.10202.08.27.50 (Autumn Green), 00.10202.08.35.47 (Burgundy/Brown), 00.10202.08.10.48 (Velvet Black), 00.10202.08.22.49 (White/Black)
- Movement | Automatic (ETA Valjoux 7753 base)
- Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, date display
- Case Material | SS (SUS316L)
- Case Diameter | 43mm
- Strap Material | Suede Leather
- Water Resistance | 10 ATM
- Price | ¥360,000 (folding buckle specification), ¥340,000 (pin buckle specification) *Excluding tax for both
- Sales | Scheduled for December 2020 (Autumn Green, Velvet Black, White/Black), January 2021 (Burgundy/Brown)
