Tudor's Enduring Appeal to the Navy: The Story Behind the Legend | TUDOR
TUDOR
TUDOR's Divers Watches: A Legacy of Over 60 Years
TUDOR has continued to craft divers watches for the navy, a testament to its robustness. We also want to highlight the stories born from this legacy. Here, we introduce four models from TUDOR's divers watch collection, spanning over 60 years of history.
Text by WASEDA Kosaku (OPENERS)
Four Models of Robustness and Rich Stories
1954 marked a memorable year for TUDOR with the birth of its first divers watch, the "Ref. 7922."
With their exceptional robustness and sophisticated manufacturing, TUDOR timepieces were the optimal choice for divers whose livelihoods depended on underwater work.
The French Navy is a prime example. At the time, officers' interest in underwater activities was growing, and they were achieving significant results in seabed surveys conducted as part of the GERS (Groupement d’Étude et de Recherche Sous-marine – Underwater Study and Research Group) project.
In 1956, the French Navy contacted TUDOR, recognizing their watches as suitable for naval divers.
For over half a century since, TUDOR watches have not only served the French Navy but have also kept time on the wrists of servicemen in renowned navies worldwide.
The four models we present today allow you to feel the history and story of TUDOR, a brand chosen for over 60 years.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"
As its name suggests, the "Black Bay Fifty-Eight 'Navy Blue'" is a model clad in navy blue. It boasts the most iconic look among TUDOR's divers watches.
TUDOR began to be adopted by the French Navy in the 1950s, when black dials were standard for divers watches. Amidst this historical context, blue models were first introduced in the mid-1970s. From that moment until the current navy blue, blue has become a symbolic color for divers watches.
(Right) Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue" (Left) Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 9401/0 from the mid-1970s
(Right) Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 9401/0 from the mid-1970s (Left) Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"
The "Black Bay Fifty-Eight 'Navy Blue'" features a matte navy blue dial and bezel, with proportions inspired by models from that era.
The case measures 39mm, fitting comfortably even on slimmer wrists. The fabric strap also adopts a navy blue hue.
This reflects the historical context where TUDOR watches were delivered to the French Navy without bracelets, leading sailors to attach various types of fabric straps. The connection to the navy can also be seen in the strap design.
Black Bay P01
The "Black Bay P01" (meaning 'Prototype One') draws inspiration from a prototype developed in the 1960s.
TUDOR supplied divers watches to the U.S. Navy in the 1950s. In 1967, development began on a successor to the Oyster Prince Submariner (Ref. 7928) that had been supplied until then.
This project, codenamed "Commando," required meeting standards set by the U.S. government, and engineers pooled their expertise to advance its development.
Finally, a prototype was completed, incorporating ergonomic functionality and new features for which patents were filed.
However, the U.S. Navy ultimately adopted the simpler TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner (Ref. 7016), bringing the "Commando" project to a close.
Black Bay P01
Black Bay P01
The "Black Bay P01" can be seen as breathing new life into a prototype that embodied functionality and pioneering spirit, half a century later.
The crown at 4 o'clock and the distinctive lug covers are modern interpretations inspired by the prototype of that era. This model represents TUDOR's adventurous spirit.
The "Black Bay Fifty-Eight" traces its origins to TUDOR's early divers watch, the "Ref. 7924." Known affectionately as the "Big Crown," this model was the first to achieve a 200-meter water resistance.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Black Bay Fifty-Eight
It incorporates elements from early models, such as the slightly larger-than-usual crown, gold accents on the dial, and the red triangle on the bezel. This watch expresses respect for the models that built the history of TUDOR divers watches.
Black Bay Bronze
The "Black Bay Bronze" is an homage to the historical fact that marines wore TUDOR watches, and a tribute to the magnificent ocean itself.
There is an anecdote related to its fabric strap, involving a parachute. During a descent, a member of the French Navy's parachute unit had his watch's fabric strap snag on the airplane door.
Although it was a momentary incident, it made them realize the need for a more flexible and elastic strap.
They then turned their attention to the emergency parachute release mechanism found on rescue parachutes of the time, and repurposed the strap used for that.
Black Bay Bronze
Black Bay Bronze
Black Bay Bronze
This strap featured a yellow stripe down the center, a design that has been carried over to the "Black Bay Bronze" over time.
Furthermore, the case of this model is made from an alloy of bronze and aluminum. Similar to equipment used underwater in the navy, which requires high corrosion resistance, it develops a beautiful patina (aging) over time.
TUDOR divers watches have met the demanding requirements of the navy for over 60 years. They stand as a symbol of reliability, while also evoking the romance of the dramatic open sea.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"
Movement | Self-winding Manufacture Caliber (MT5402)
Power Reserve | Approx. 70 hours
Case Material | SS
Case Diameter | 39mm
Strap | Steel rivet bracelet, blue "soft touch" strap, blue fabric strap
