Special Exhibition of Cartier Vintage TANK Watch Held at Aoyama Store | COMME des GARÇONS
COMME des GARÇONS
A Design Rei Kawakubo Approves as 'Authentic'.
The Cartier TANK Watch.
From May 21st (Mon) to June 10th (Sun), COMME des GARÇONS Aoyama will exhibit and sell rare vintage TANK watches selected by British watch collector and specialist Harry Fane.
Text by Takashi Tsuchida (OPENERS)
Rei Kawakubo's Definition of 'Authentic': Timeless and Unfading.
Indeed, that is precisely the case. Since its birth in 1917, Cartier's TANK watch has seen numerous variations, yet few icons in watchmaking history possess such a powerful presence. The very choice of a tank as a motif for an ornamental piece speaks volumes about its striking impact.
And this was during the midst of World War I.
The prominent vertical lines on the case sides evoke tank tracks. These are paired with Cartier's signature design elements: Roman numeral hour markers and a railway minute track. It's a juxtaposition of contrasting motifs, akin to a beauty and the beast.
Naturally, there's no ideological intent behind it, yet it represents the overwhelming presence of the 'tank' as a creation of humankind. Art Deco aimed for human intellect and geometric beauty, standing in stark contrast to the nature worship of the Art Nouveau era.
A tank. Simply overwhelming.
At COMME des GARÇONS Aoyama, we have always curated items, concepts, and art that Rei Kawakubo deems authentic, regardless of their fame, obscurity, or scale. The Cartier TANK, in this context, is 'authentic' in the sense that it has transcended time without losing its luster. This, we understand, is the core principle behind this special exhibition.
This exhibition showcases watches from an era when Cartier timepieces truly shone. The discerning selection comes from Harry Fane, a world-renowned collector with a vast collection of rare pieces from Cartier's golden age, dating back to the 1920s. Mr. Fane is active as a dealer of art, watches, and jewels, and currently operates a showroom called OBSIDIAN in London.
Twenty-five vintage TANK models, valued between one and ten million yen, are on display. Opportunities to see such a valuable collection of vintage TANK watches are rare. We highly recommend visiting during the exhibition period to resonate with Rei Kawakubo's concept of 'authenticity.' We hope it also serves as an inspiration for you to contemplate what 'authentic' means to you.
Exhibited and For Sale: Model Highlights
TANK LC
¥1.4 million (excluding tax)
The quintessential TANK design. The Roman numeral '4' represented by four lines is a Cartier signature. Features a manual-wind movement bearing the Cartier name. 18K white gold case. The accompanying deployant buckle is also 18K gold.
TANK Cintrée
¥5.88 million (excluding tax)
Characterized by its elongated rectangular form, which makes the wrist appear slimmer and enhances the watch's presence. Equipped with a European Watch Company manual-wind movement. 18K yellow gold case.
TANK Chinoise
¥3.36 million (excluding tax)
Emphasizing vertical lines and adding horizontal ones to create a lattice pattern, inspired by Chinese motifs. Features a manual-wind movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre. 18K yellow gold case.