WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
May 11, 2015
Jaquet Droz | BASELWORLD 2015 Baselworld Breaking News | JAQUET DROZ
JAQUET DROZ
A Lotus Flower Animated by Mechanical Precision (1)
Jaquet Droz is known as a watch brand that also crafts complex models, including Swiss automata. This time, the brand unveiled a model that features an automaton for the first time in a ladies' collection.
Text by KAWADA Akinori
Making Artistic Worlds More Approachable
Founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a renowned figure not only as a watchmaker but also as a master of automata, or automaton makers.
In 2015, products were unveiled to appeal more broadly to the brand and expand its fan base.
Among these, models equipped with a "deadbeat" second hand, which moves in discrete steps, and calendar models featuring a retrograde moon phase mechanism are particularly noteworthy for their easily understandable mechanical appeal.
Furthermore, the attractive automaton "Lady 8 Flower" was released for the ladies' collection.
A Unique Way of Telling Time on a Mechanical Watch
This "Grande Seconde Dead Beat" is equipped with a truly unique mechanism.
The hour and minute hands are positioned at 12 o'clock, and the pointer-style date display at 6 o'clock uses a retrograde system that sweeps across a fan shape. When the date display reaches the end of the month, the hand instantly returns to the 1st.
The seconds hand, positioned at the center, is also unusual. While the seconds hand on a conventional mechanical watch moves fluidly, this watch's seconds hand jumps precisely every second. This mechanism, known as "deadbeat seconds," mimics the movement of a quartz watch's seconds hand. This complication was also featured in a pocket watch created by founder Jaquet-Droz in the 18th century, marking a revival of a classical mechanism.
The dial is a lustrous ivory, made of enamel fired at high temperatures. This watch, seemingly simple at first glance yet full of unique features, is a precious timepiece with a world limited to 88 pieces in this color.
Grande Seconde Dead Beat
Case | 18K Red Gold
Diameter | 43mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. JD 2695 SMR)
Functions | Pointer-type date display (retrograde with fan-shaped movement)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 88 pieces
Availability | Scheduled for October onwards
Estimated Price | ¥3,574,800
JAQUET DROZ
A Lotus Flower Animated by Mechanical Precision (2)
Expressing Lunar Phases with a Retrograde Disk
The "Eclipse" is a triple calendar + moon phase model with an extremely simple dial finish. The date is indicated by numerals around the outer edge of the dial, while the month and day displays are shown in small windows at the 12 o'clock position.
Without three-dimensional hour markers, time is read using the 5-minute markers placed around the date display. This design maximizes the dial's visual space, resulting in a remarkably clean and refined face.
The moon phase at 6 o'clock is particularly striking. The method of expressing lunar phases, with a disk overlaying a humorous face of the moon flanked by stars, is highly distinctive. Moreover, the disk moves in a retrograde arc, returning to its starting position instantly when the moon reaches its full phase. While the dial appears simple, this is quite a complication, showcasing Jaquet Droz's prowess in a single timepiece.
Eclipse Silver
Case | Stainless Steel
Diameter | 43mm
Movement | Manual winding (JD 6553L2)
Functions | Month display, Day display, Date display (indicated by center hand), Moon phase display (disk with engraved moon shows lunar phases)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Availability | Scheduled for August onwards
Estimated Price | ¥1,792,800
An Automaton Where a Lotus Flower Opens to Reveal Diamonds
The case, inspired by the "8" motif that symbolizes Jaquet Droz, is a unique design in itself. The hour and minute displays are positioned on the larger circle, featuring a realistic depiction of a butterfly. Its wings are meticulously engraved and painted with translucent red enamel, creating a beautiful hue.
On the smaller circle at 12 o'clock rests a lotus bud. This is the automaton. When the push-button at 2 o'clock is pressed, the lotus bud slowly opens, revealing diamonds within. It then gently closes its petals. This unfolds an oriental, naturalistic artistic world that is utterly captivating. This rare timepiece, limited to 28 pieces worldwide, masterfully incorporates the depth of mechanical watchmaking.
Lady 8 Flower
Case | 18K Red Gold with Diamonds
Diameter | 35mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. JD 615)
Functions | Automaton (petals at 12 o'clock open and close via push-button)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 28 pieces
Availability | Scheduled for October onwards
Estimated Price | ¥18,489,600
Jaquet Droz / Swatch Group Japan
Tel. 03-6254-7288
http://www.jaquet-droz.com/ja




