Good design is timeless and compelling | Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross

The Message Behind the New "Racing Bird" Collection.

Bell & Ross Creative Director
Interview with Bruno Belamich (Part 1)

Among Bell & Ross's new releases for 2018, the "Racing Bird" stood out with its exceptional brilliance. The white dial was refreshingly crisp, and the accents of blue and orange were perfectly executed. This unreservedly cheerful and confident atmosphere reminded me of the American aviation scene in the mid-20th century. So, what were Bruno Belamich's thoughts when designing this watch? I asked him directly at Baselworld 2018.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)

For "Instruments for Professionals"

—This year, you introduced a new concept called the Racing Bird. Could you tell us about the background behind this concept?

Bruno Belamich.

BrunoAt Bell & Ross, we have been creating various vehicles in our creative domain and their instruments since the B-ROCKET in 2014.

This challenge continued with a supercar in 2016 and a racing car in 2017, and this year, we have finally tackled an airplane, the "BR-BIRD."

The aircraft's distinctive feature lies in its striking shape. It has wide wings and a Y-shaped tail. Additionally,

The white paint on the body was inspired by experimental aircraft used by NASA (*Editor's note: aircraft built for educational purposes or personal hobbies).

There was a historical context for adopting white paint as a reflection color.

—Are the wide wings designed to withstand low-altitude flight?

BrunoYes, specifically designed with the Reno Air Races in mind, although we've slightly exaggerated it as a concept model. If we were to manufacture a real aircraft, the wingspan would be about 10 percent narrower.

—Many brands draw inspiration from land, sea, and air, but what is Bell & Ross's unique approach? And what specific elements demonstrate this?

BrunoFirst, I want to emphasize that designing these aircraft itself incorporates the brand's know-how. We are not simply designing a new airplane; we are creating an aircraft that differs from those envisioned by other brands, and then translating that into watch design.

The worldview is different, and so is the methodology.

—Does pursuing Bell & Ross's origin, namely "instruments for professionals," require designing the vehicles that serve as the basis for those instruments?

BrunoExactly. As designers, to build the brand's world, it's sometimes necessary to become like a film director. What we are creating is a story through watches.

Alternatively, as we develop the details, we might discover new sources of inspiration. In this case, it was the pilot's uniform.

—The uniform specified the materials for each part, didn't it?

BrunoYes, down to the materials. Every single detail contributes to the realism, so of course, we do that.

B-ROCKET
In 2014, Bell & Ross unveiled the B-Rocket, aiming to break speed records for motorcycles and automobiles.

AÉRO-GT
The AÉRO-GT supercar, with a silhouette reminiscent of the Rafale fighter jet, was unveiled by Bell & Ross in 2016.

BELLYTANKER
The Bellytanker, evoking the fuel tanks used in 1940s fighter planes, was unveiled by Bell & Ross in 2017.

BR-BIRD
In 2018, Bell & Ross spreads its wings with the BR-BIRD, embarking on a new adventure in aviation and watchmaking.

Page02.Ultimately, it's functionalism

Bell & Ross

The Message Behind the New "Racing Bird" Collection.

Bell & Ross Creative Director
Interview with Bruno Belamich (Part 2)

Ultimately, it's functionalism

—From this Racing Bird, I was reminded of the strong America of the mid-20th century, like in Tom Cruise's "Top Gun" (1986).

BrunoWhen creating aviation watches, the worldview that country has championed is incredibly powerful, and we cannot overlook it.

The "aviation world" in a broad sense, including the Apollo moon landing and NASA's space programs, is also important as our source of inspiration.

—The dial is white, like the aircraft, which is quite novel within Bell & Ross's lineup, known for its strong military designs.

BrunoMilitary and aviation designs are core to us, and that will not change.

Black, gray, and blue are our base colors. We've also incorporated copper tones, but the white this time serves to complement those.

—Bell & Ross watches, at first glance, seem to follow classic military watch design codes, but upon closer inspection of the details, differences emerge. The slender, stylish lugs, the narrow bezel, the domed crystal that remains easy to read. They aren't simply copying vintage pieces from the '50s and '60s; they appear understated but are meticulously crafted. This is why they leave a significantly different impression compared to brands in the same price range.

BrunoI personally love watches. I like vintage military watches, but at the same time, I also appreciate contemporary designs like those from Urwerk. And regarding details, I believe that accumulating small details can create significant differences.

—So, let me ask again about the brand's origins. For you, Bruno, what are the design codes of military watches and aviation instruments? Why do you pursue this origin?

BrunoUltimately, it's functionalism. There's a required function, and that function dictates the form. That's the essence of it.

Good design is timeless and compelling.

The Reno Air Races are the most intense speed competition in aviation, held annually in the Nevada desert. This event, which began in 1924, involves pilots competing in extremely low-altitude flights at full speed around a closed circuit marked by 10-meter-high pylons.

To achieve victory at the world's most beautiful and captivating air race venue, a machine with exceptional power, aerodynamics, and maneuverability is required.

Responding to this demanding challenge, Bruno Belamich, co-founder and Creative Director of Bell & Ross, designed the BR-BIRD.

The BR-BIRD, a modern single-seat, propeller-driven aircraft using high-tech materials (graphite, fiberglass, titanium, aluminum alloy), is envisioned to be powered by the "Rolls-Royce Falcon," a V12 engine developed based on the Merlin (which made aviation history with the legendary British fighter, the Spitfire).

ENGINE
RR FALCON V12-60NG (Based on Rolls-Royce Merlin)
POWER: 4300hp

PERFORMANCE
MAXIMUM SPEED: 909km/h (Mach 0.73)

SIZE
LENGTH: 9.5m
WINGSPAN: 10.31m
HEIGHT: 1.66m
WEIGHT: 2080kg (without pilot and liquids)

MAIN MATERIALS
48% COMPOSITE (carbon and fiberglass)
24% ALUMINIUM
24% TITANIUM
4% OTHERS