WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
May 25, 2018
Featuring the Three Grand Complications: Minute Repeater, Chronograph, and Perpetual Calendar | PATEK PHILIPPE
PATEK PHILIPPE
Triple Complications
New Rose Gold Model Joins the Lineup
The Ref. 5208, featuring a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar, was born in 2011. Previously offered in a platinum case with an anthracite soleil dial, this model has been discontinued. It is replaced by a new specification with an 18K rose gold case and an ebony black soleil dial.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)
Expanding its Range Beyond the Buzz
Minute repeaters have become a trending item these days. It feels like the tourbillon craze of a decade ago is now reappearing in minute repeaters. However, this model, unlike those driven by fleeting trends, represents a legitimate evolution focused on making its three grand complications practical and truly usable.
While it is up to the owner whether to use these exquisite mechanisms in daily life as practical tools, one can sense the brand's intention to prioritize usability.
One reason for this is the self-winding mechanism. The ability to charge the power reserve through daily use is proof of the pursuit of practicality. Furthermore, the micro-rotor is designed not to obstruct the view of the minute repeater gongs, which is a pleasing detail. Like the Ref. 5207 Grand Complication, this model also conveys an aesthetic of organized movement structure.
Another point is the white painting on the chronograph display elements. This is also intended to enhance legibility, using a different style from the timekeeping indications. The 60-minute counter at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 9 o'clock, and the central chronograph seconds hand are clearly visible thanks to the white paint.
Incidentally, by utilizing the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, it's possible to use them as a clever workaround to display a second time zone. This can be achieved by starting the chronograph precisely at noon or midnight.
Turning our attention to the case, we can see that the case sides are significantly open. This detail is likely to ensure sufficient clearance for the minute repeater slider, but this design itself is beautiful and leaves a strong impression.
5208 Triple Complication
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. R CH 27 PS QI)
Functions | Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph
Power Reserve | Min. 38 hours, Max. 48 hours
Case Material | 18K RG
Case Dimensions | 42mm diameter, 15.11mm thickness
Case Back | Sapphire crystal and standard case back included
Water Resistance | Not water-resistant (handles moisture and dust only)
Estimated Price | Price on application
Availability | Made to order





