Ref. 5822P. The slim case and the exceptional finishing on its sides set it apart from mass-produced
WATCH & JEWELRY /
FEATURES
December 20, 2024
Foreseeing the Future, 25 Years Ahead, Through "Cubitus"
PATEK PHILIPPE | The "Cubitus"
In Japan, 25 years is sometimes referred to as a "quarter-century," a measure of time imbued with a sense of nostalgia. Yet, in today's rapidly changing and diversifying consumer market, how much meaning does such a long span truly hold? It is precisely because so much time has passed that OPENERS deems Patek Philippe's release of a new collection an "event." Nowadays, the annual release of new models is standard in the luxury watch industry, and seasonal capsule collections are not uncommon. Amidst this flurry of new releases, Patek Philippe alone has remained silent, not unveiling a new collection since the "Twenty~4" in 1999 – a full quarter-century. For men's watches, the gap is even longer; it has been a remarkable 27 years since the release of the "Aquanaut."
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Reintroducing Enduring Value to the World of Watches!
"Today, any model you wear is timeless. But what about 25 years from now?"
This question serves as an antithesis to contemporary consumer society. Every object has its season, a trend particularly pronounced in the world of fashion. No matter how expensive a product, it is incredibly difficult to foresee whether it will remain a cherished possession five, ten, or even twenty-five years down the line.
However, Patek Philippe's new "Cubitus" collection seems liberated from such temporal constraints. Instead, it presents itself to us now, hinting at a value that will only deepen with the passage of time.
Furthermore, the "Aquanaut" serves as a telling example in understanding the significance of this 25-year span. Since its debut in 1997, the Aquanaut has only grown more appealing with age. Initially launched as a simple three-hand model with a stainless steel case, the collection now includes chronographs and models adorned with precious stones, continuously enhancing its overall value.
This phenomenon transcends mere aging; it is the maturation of collection value. Moreover, Patek Philippe's designs remain faithful to tradition and are inherently simple. Their simplicity allows for a certain grace, forgiving minor scratches acquired through use. The traces of actual wear, rather than the pristine gleam of a new purchase, add to its value. This grounded "sublimity" is a hallmark of the brand.
The central piece is the special edition Ref. 5822P, featuring a large date display and day/moon phase indicators. To its left is the all-stainless steel Ref. 5821/1A, and to the right is the two-tone Ref. 5821/1AR.
A Dialogue Between Tradition and Innovation
Breaking its 25-year silence, the "Cubitus" collection does not flaunt cutting-edge technology but rather exudes a quiet presence. Yet, therein lies the true essence of Patek Philippe. It successfully presents an entirely new aesthetic while inheriting the lineage of sporty elegance established by the "Nautilus" in 1976 and the "Aquanaut" in 1997.
The "Cubitus" is characterized by its unprecedented, original case design. Based on a square, the rounded corners and octagonal elements create a geometric yet soft impression. Despite its substantial 45mm diameter (measured from 10 to 4 o'clock), the slim profile ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist. Furthermore, practical considerations are evident, including 30 meters of water resistance.
The "Ref. 5822P" features a large date display and day/moon phase indicators. This model alone uses a platinum case, adding to its exclusivity.
The flagship of the series is the platinum "Ref. 5822P." It boasts a large, instantaneous date display with two windows at 12 o'clock and day/moon phase indicators at 7 o'clock, all of which switch over precisely at midnight in a mere 18 milliseconds. This groundbreaking mechanism has six patent applications pending, showcasing the brand's pride as a master of complex horology.
The horizontally embossed pattern on the dial reveals different expressions depending on the angle of light. The platinum model's navy blue, the deep blue of the "Ref. 5821/1AR" combining rose gold and stainless steel, and the olive green of the all-stainless steel "Ref. 5821/1A" each possess a unique character.
Craftsmanship Looking Towards the Future
All three models feature a sapphire crystal case back, allowing an unobstructed view of Patek Philippe's exquisite movement.
The case employs a two-part structure where the movement is inserted from the crystal side, with distinctive connecting elements on both sides. Even the watch's construction is elevated to an element of design. This attention to detail is also evident in the bracelet's finishing. Alternating polished and vertically satin-finished surfaces create variations in appearance with the angle of light, achieving a sophisticated aesthetic.
This new collection, arriving after a 25-year hiatus, can be considered the optimal contemporary solution to Patek Philippe's continuous pursuit of "eternal beauty." And, much like the path the "Aquanaut" has taken, it is certain that various complications and embellishments will be added to this model in the future, further enhancing its collection value.
We posed the question at the beginning of the article: "What about 25 years from now?" The answer, concerning the "Cubitus," is unequivocally YES. If we were to say that one now possesses the very first "Aquanaut," surely OPENERS readers can vividly imagine it? Above all, contemplating the presence that grows with time naturally stirs excitement.
Ref. 5822P, automatic winding, large instantaneous date display, day and moon phase indicators, platinum case, 45mm diameter (10 to 4 o'clock), sapphire crystal case back, 3 ATM water resistance, ¥13,990,000 (incl. tax).
Ref. 5821/1AR, automatic winding, 18K rose gold and stainless steel combination, 45mm case diameter (10 to 4 o'clock), sapphire crystal case back, 3 ATM water resistance, ¥9,700,000 (incl. tax).
Ref. 5821/1A, automatic winding, stainless steel case, 45mm diameter (10 to 4 o'clock), sapphire crystal case back, 3 ATM water resistance, ¥6,530,000 (incl. tax).
Inquiries
Patek Philippe Japan Information Center
Tel. 03-3255-8109
https://www.patek.com