WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
August 18, 2017
The legendary El Primero chronograph finally enters the era of 1/100th of a second measurement | ZENITH
ZENITH
The chronograph hands spin at breathtaking speed.
Pure, exhilarating joy and a sense of pure speed!
Following the wave of economic downturn that hit the watch industry in 2016, the 2017 Baselworld was clearly divided into offensive and defensive camps. Indeed, it is a natural stance to safely navigate through periods of economic decline and await the return of favorable opportunities. But ZENITH was different. They managed to mass-produce a mechanical chronograph capable of measuring 1/100th of a second and announced it at this very moment. It was astonishing. Their exceptional approach also hints at the bold strategy of Jean-Claude Biver, who has led numerous brands to great success.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi(OPENERS)
The Star New Model of 2017: Defy El Primero 21
The chronograph hand completes one rotation per second.
They say boys are captivated by moving objects, and in that sense, both eyes are completely captivated. Of course, 1/100th of a second measuring models have been introduced by several brands in the past, but they were either limited editions or produced in small quantities. Therefore, in terms of mass production, this model can be called a world first.
The El Primero is a high-beat movement. This means the balance wheel oscillates 10 times per second. Consequently, even with chronograph measurements, 1/10th of a second could be measured.
And the new El Primero 9004 vibrates at 100 times per second. However, using this vibration frequency for timekeeping would be inefficient in terms of energy. Therefore, ZENITH's engineers incorporated two escapement systems into a single movement: one for timekeeping and one for the chronograph.
It's like a hybrid system with two engines.
The ability to house a 10-beat balance wheel for conventional timekeeping and a 100-beat balance wheel for the chronograph, with two separate gear trains, while keeping the part count to 203, is a testament to modern engineering.
Even the original El Primero, born in 1969, required 278 parts.
The twin barrels are also separate. The automatic winding rotor, shaped like ZENITH's signature star, winds the mainspring for timekeeping.
The mainspring for the chronograph can be power-charged by rotating the crown clockwise. The power reserve indicator at the 12 o'clock position on the dial shows the remaining charge of the chronograph mainspring.
Incidentally, the "Defy" collection also existed in the early 1960s. It was apparently pronounced "De-fy" back then.
The meaning of the word is "challenger." As a spirit symbolizing the current ZENITH, Mr. Biver, who leads the brand, named this work
"Defy" again. In an interview during Baselworld, Mr. Biver stated, "My mission is to revitalize ZENITH."
Historical models that served as design sources
The cushion case robustly protects the movement, and the indices are marked on the rehaut.
Defy, a collection from the early 1960s. The polygonal case, reminiscent of a gemstone cut, is striking.
The subdued color contrast of off-white and black is eye-catching. It has an impression close to modern design trends.
Features a flat face with a thin bezel. The curved edges of the case emphasize a soft impression.
The triumphant advance of the new ZENITH, led by Mr. Biver, who revived and propelled Blancpain and Hublot to popular brands, has only just begun.
Defy El Primero 21
A model with a mid-century space-age aesthetic, featuring a silver dial with red accents.
Ref. | 95.9001.9004/01.R582 (Titanium – Silver-toned dial)
Movement | Newly developed in-house COSC-certified automatic El Primero 9004
Functions | 1/100th second chronograph measurement, dynamic timekeeping with one rotation per second, new balance spring made of synthetic carbon nanotube material resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes (patented)
Dials | Chronograph power reserve indicator (12 o'clock), 30-minute counter (3 o'clock), 60-second counter (6 o'clock), small seconds (9 o'clock)
Case Material | Titanium
Case Diameter | 44mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap Material | Rubber with alligator leather coating
Price | ¥1,040,000 (excluding tax)
Release Date | October
Defy El Primero 21
The double balance wheels on the dial side are visible through the see-through dial. The indices and brand logo are engraved.
Ref. | 95.9000.9004/78.R582
Movement | Newly developed in-house COSC-certified automatic El Primero 9004
Functions | 1/100th second chronograph measurement, dynamic timekeeping with one rotation per second, new balance spring made of synthetic carbon nanotube material resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes (patented)
Dials | Chronograph power reserve indicator (12 o'clock), 30-minute counter (3 o'clock), 60-second counter (6 o'clock), small seconds (9 o'clock)
Case Material | Titanium (12 o'clock position), small seconds (9 o'clock position)
Case Material | Titanium
Case Diameter | 44mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap Material | Rubber with alligator leather coating
Price | ¥1,150,000 (excluding tax)
Release Date | October
Defy El Primero 21
A black ceramic model with a sharp, imposing look. The distinctive double balance wheels are also visible from the dial side.
Ref. | 49.9000.9004/78.R582
Movement | Newly developed in-house COSC-certified automatic El Primero 9004
Functions | 1/100th second chronograph measurement, dynamic timekeeping with one rotation per second, new balance spring made of synthetic carbon nanotube material resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes (patented)
Dials | Chronograph power reserve indicator (12 o'clock), 30-minute counter (3 o'clock), 60-second counter (6 o'clock), small seconds (9 o'clock)
Case Material | Ceramic
Case Diameter | 44mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap Material | Rubber with alligator leather coating
Price | ¥1,250,000 (excluding tax)
Release Date | November
Contact
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan ZENITH
Tel. 03-5524-6420
http://www.zenith-watches.com/jp_jp