WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
December 4, 2017
An architectural icon born in the 1970s. The revived full collection | GIRARD-PERREGAUX
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Glamorous curves create gentleness and elegance.
A triumph of geometric balance, worthy of being called modern Art Deco!
The soft impression of the octagonal bezel's reverse arc immediately catches the eye, and the shadows created by the blade-like curves evoke a sense of design depth. The watch case features a satin finish on the base layer, followed by a polished round layer. The octagonal bezel is satin-finished on the front and polished on the sides. This architectural style transcends the boundaries of sporty and luxurious, offering a step beyond into pure elegance.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)
Girard-Perregaux's iconic "Laureato," inspired by architectural design
The "Laureato," whose first model was born in 1975, has returned this year as a full lineup collection. While the "Laureato" has been released as standalone items numerous times before, this time, a total of 40 models across four sizes, from ladies' models to complex timepieces, have been introduced simultaneously, establishing a new flagship series for the brand.
Furthermore, it is noteworthy that all design codes of the "Laureato" are met, and the details from 1975 have been faithfully inherited without alteration. These design codes are:
• A distinctive bezel combining an octagon and a circle
• A "Clous de Paris" hobnail pattern on the dial (a texture resembling a field of pyramids)
• A design where the case and bracelet are continuous and offer an excellent fit
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The idea for the geometric design, specifically the bezel combining an octagon and a circle, was inspired by the structure of the dome of Florence Cathedral in Italy. This is because an Italian architect was involved in the design of the Laureato.
Meanwhile, the Laureato has another story. Released in 1975, the Laureato was an innovative model equipped with an in-house quartz movement.
Girard-Perregaux, one of the Swiss manufacturers, succeeded early in the in-house design and production of quartz movements, releasing its first quartz model in 1971. The quartz oscillation frequency of 32,768 Hz, established by Girard-Perregaux, became the global standard thereafter and remains so to this day.
Girard-Perregaux did not establish a hierarchy between quartz and mechanical movements, but rather viewed them as simply different options. Of course, quartz movements were extremely high-end at the time, but Girard-Perregaux invested considerable effort in the unseen parts, such as applying Côtes de Genève decoration to the quartz movements, just as they would for mechanical movements.
This philosophy is reflected in the current collection. This time, the quartz movement is adopted for the 34mm ladies' collection, paying homage to its origins.
The original model introduced in 1975.
It is also interesting that each of the four sizes houses an optimally sized movement. Viewed through the transparent case back, the movement maximizes the space within the case. The integrity of not reusing movements was also a point of praise at SIHH.
Laureato 42mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP01800)
Case Material | Stainless steel or a combination of titanium and 18K pink gold
Case Diameter | 42mm
Strap | Stainless steel bracelet, or a combination of titanium and 18K pink gold, or alligator (alligator strap includes an interchangeable rubber strap)
Case Back | Transparent
Water Resistance | 10 ATM (stainless steel models), 5 ATM (titanium models)
Price | ¥1.19 million (left), ¥2.44 million (center), ¥1.11 million (right) *All prices exclude tax
Laureato 38mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP03300)
Case Material | Stainless steel with 56 diamonds on the bezel, or 18K pink gold, or stainless steel
Case Diameter | 38mm
Strap | Alligator (alligator strap includes an interchangeable rubber strap), or 18K pink gold, or stainless steel
Case Back | Transparent
Water Resistance | 10 ATM (stainless steel models), 5 ATM (18K pink gold models)
Price | ¥1.47 million (left), ¥3.70 million (center), ¥1.12 million (right) *All prices exclude tax
Laureato 34mm
Movement | Quartz
Case Material | Stainless steel with 56 diamonds on the bezel, or 18K pink gold with 56 diamonds on the bezel
Case Diameter | 34mm
Strap | Stainless steel, or alligator (alligator strap includes an interchangeable rubber strap)
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥1.03 million (left), ¥1.96 million (center), ¥0.95 million (right) *All prices exclude tax
Laureato Tourbillon
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP09510-0002 White Gold Bridges or Cal. GP09510-0001 Pink Gold Bridges)
Case Material | 18K white gold and titanium, or 18K pink gold and titanium
Case Diameter | 45mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥10.62 million (left), ¥10.11 million (right) *Both prices exclude tax
Laureato Skeleton
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP01800-0006)
Case Material | Stainless steel or 18K pink gold
Case Diameter | 42mm
Bracelet Material | Stainless steel or 18K pink gold
Water Resistance | 10 ATM (stainless steel models), 5 ATM (18K pink gold models)
Price | ¥3.45 million (left), ¥6.54 million (right) *Both prices exclude tax
Page02.Featuring the brand's iconic "Bridges"
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Utilizing the bridges to create a symmetrical mechanism.
A triumph of geometric balance, worthy of being called modern Art Deco!
Featuring the brand's iconic "Bridges"
One of Girard-Perregaux's defining details is its bridges. Girard-Perregaux has elevated the bridges, which serve as movement bearings, into a design element on the dial. The genius lies in moving the parts that sandwich the gear arbors from the mainplate to the dial side, where they are treated as decorative elements. Furthermore, arranging these bridges to create a symmetrical appearance is also a signature Girard-Perregaux innovation. Rethinking the layout of a watch's gear train from an aesthetic perspective, beyond mere pursuit of precision, must have been an extraordinary concept at the time.
In recent years, Girard-Perregaux has showcased this bridge motif in its complication models, but this year, a non-complication model has finally been introduced. The design concept is derived from Constant Girard, the creator of the "Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon" pocket watch that won the Grand Prix at the Paris Exposition in 1889.
A micro-rotor is positioned at 10 o'clock, the barrel at 2 o'clock, and the escapement at 6 o'clock. The watch's gear train is gathered on the dial side and arranged symmetrically, creating a beautiful spectacle. To best showcase this, the bezel has been eliminated, and a domed crystal highlights the three-dimensional movement.
2017 marks the 150th anniversary of the debut of Girard-Perregaux's "Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon." It is no coincidence that a completely new "Bridge model" has appeared in this commemorative year.
It is safe to assume that Girard-Perregaux intends to project its brand philosophy through the "bridge" detail and eventually expand this heritage beyond a select few complication models into a full collection.
Neo-Bridges Automatic Titanium
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP08400)
Case Material | Titanium
Case Diameter | 45mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥2.59 million (excluding tax)
WW.TC World Time housed in the 1966 case
Another topic of discussion is the WW.TC (World Wide Time Control). Previously, the WW.TC was housed in large cases as a standalone series. This new model integrates it into the 1966, Girard-Perregaux's most classic round case.
A departure from the previous large and thick WW.TC models, this new creation boasts a refined, dressy appearance, exuding an intellectual aura and shedding its casual feel. Crucially, it retains the characteristic double crown, a detail that instantly identifies it as a Girard-Perregaux. This double crown system allows for world time adjustments with the crown at 9 o'clock and time setting with the crown at 3 o'clock. Its single-function design minimizes the risk of accidental operation, offering excellent usability.
This is truly the aesthetic of subtraction. Among all world time watches, this one stands out for its elegance.
1966 WW.TC
Movement | Automatic (Cal. GP03300-0027 / 0022 *SS/18KPG)
Case Material | Stainless steel or 18K pink gold
Case Diameter | 40mm
Case Back | Transparent
Strap | Stainless steel or alligator
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥1.42 million (left), ¥2.57 million (right) *Both prices exclude tax
Page03.Girard-Perregaux CEO Antonio Calce Interview
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Leading the triumph of geometric balance, worthy of being called modern Art Deco
We ask about the secret and the brand's future prospects.
Girard-Perregaux CEO Antonio Calce Interview
—With the new Laureato collection, what aspects of the brand do you intend to emphasize?
The Laureato is an icon from the 1970s, discovered over many years. With its powerful personality and strong identity, this watch is central to the development of the Girard-Perregaux brand. The Laureato collection has achieved great success since its unveiling at SIHH.
It is a collection designed to evolve and progress over time.
—The sporty luxury segment, like the "Laureato," is a hot market with many brands participating. What is Girard-Perregaux's advantage in this space?
Girard-Perregaux's strength in the "luxury sporty watch" category lies in having iconic timepieces with historical legitimacy, like the Laureato.
—Next, could you tell us about the background of focusing on the "Bridges" as an icon?
In 1884, Constant Girard created a watch that received an award of excellence from the Neuchâtel Observatory. Its movement featured a mechanism with the barrel, second wheel, and tourbillon carriage arranged in a vertical line, held parallel by three bridges. Constant Girard's idea was to emphasize the design aspect while maintaining functionality, developing the artistic side of the movement by arranging these three bridges. The three bridges of the mechanical movement (for the barrel,
gear train, and movement bearings) represent "common features," but what is uncommon is focusing on those parts. This is unique in the watch industry. Constant Girard chose to focus on elements that watchmakers typically overlooked. He paid as much attention to the shape of the parts as to the structure of the movement. Consequently, the movement is no longer seen merely as a technical component but becomes a feature that instantly recognizes the overall beauty of the watch. There is no need to write the brand name on the dial; a single glance at the movement is sufficient. For the past century and a half, the signature "Three Bridges" has become a strong identifying characteristic for Girard-Perregaux.
Constant Girard chose to focus on elements that watchmakers typically overlooked. He paid as much attention to the shape of the parts as to the structure of the movement. Consequently, the movement is no longer seen merely as a technical component but becomes a feature that instantly recognizes the overall beauty of the watch. There is no need to write the brand name on the dial; a single glance at the movement is sufficient. For the past century and a half, the signature "Three Bridges" has become a strong identifying characteristic for Girard-Perregaux.
—What concept do you intend to convey with the Neo-Bridges?
The Neo-Bridges holds significant meaning for Girard-Perregaux because it is the first watch with bridges that does not feature a tourbillon function. The objective for the Three Bridges models is to create a genuine new product line based on modern and traditional proposals across three different price points.
The Neo-Bridges represents the first contemporary offering with fundamental watchmaking mechanics. This model, featuring a large mechanism with a balance wheel operating at a low frequency of 3 Hz and a high moment of inertia, is available for ¥2.59 million (excluding tax).
Next, we will complete two more price points. At the pinnacle of the product pyramid will be the tourbillon, with another complication positioned in the middle tier below it.
—Where do you see the high-end watch industry heading?
How do you position Girard-Perregaux within this landscape?
The market is evolving, and brands must adapt to this reality by adopting appropriate strategies. As for Girard-Perregaux, we are offering stainless steel watches in a price range that was previously unavailable, between 5,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs (approximately ¥580,000 to ¥1.15 million). More than ever, it is crucial to provide the right products with the correct size, appropriate functions, and fair pricing.
—What do you consider to be Girard-Perregaux's identity?
Girard-Perregaux is a watchmaking brand of exceptional quality. It embodies the elegance of watchmaking through its meticulous attention to detail in movement finishing, its pursuit of precision demonstrated by numerous patents including high-frequency movements, quartz, and most recently, the Constant Escapement LM.
Girard-Perregaux is a brand respected for its precious heritage, as well as its history and values. We honor our 225-year history while possessing the foresight to develop new mechanisms.