Van Cleef & Arpels | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
February 15, 2016

Van Cleef & Arpels | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS


VAN CLEEF & ARPEL


Weaving a World of Poetic Charm onto the Dial (1)


Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled its new creations, centered around high jewelry and Poetic Complications. The Poetic Complications, in particular, warrant close attention. In 2016, a world brimming with poetic sensibility unfolded on the watch dials.

By Akinori Kawata




Exquisite Motifs That Captivate the Eye


Van Cleef & Arpels' Poetic Complications are a highlight of the year. Each year, they bring to life the mysteries of the cosmos or emotionally resonant stories on the dial, quite literally transforming watches into poetic creations. The gem-setting, as expected from a renowned high jeweler, adds splendid color and brilliance to the timepieces.

In 2016, the richness of these Poetic Complications is particularly striking. Two of the pieces introduced here are not only beautiful and original but also exceptional in their mechanisms. From the dancing butterflies of the 'Lady Arpels' to the luminous diamonds of the 'Midnight,' one can truly feel the philosophy and beauty that Van Cleef & Arpels pursues, perfectly reflected.

These new creations embody Van Cleef & Arpels' unique approach to imbuing wristwatches with poetic sentiment, crafting them with an irresistible allure.

Focus on the Butterflies' Dance Among the Clouds


The 'Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons' watch is a joy to behold simply as a piece of art, but its brilliance as a timepiece is amplified by its integration with timekeeping mechanisms.



Near the center of the dial, a cloud motif is set, accompanied by butterflies and swallows. As one gazes idly, the butterflies and swallows move subtly, with butterflies disappearing and new ones emerging. In total, three butterflies appear within an hour, gracefully traversing the dial, their movements subtly echoed by the swallows.

The swallow actually serves as the retrograde hour hand, tracing a fan-shaped hour track over 12 hours before instantly returning to zero at the 12 o'clock position. The butterflies function as minute indicators, with a system called 'Variable Speed Minutes' concealed beneath the clouds. Three discs, each set with a butterfly motif, are arranged beneath the clouds, designed to appear sequentially.

This alone is a testament to exquisite mechanics, but pressing the button at the 8 o'clock position on the case reveals further spectacle. The butterflies appear, fly, and disappear back into the clouds in an accelerated sequence. This watch is also equipped with an on-demand animation mechanism.


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This scene, reminiscent of a gentle spring, is brought to life through motifs crafted with advanced enameling techniques. Together with the diamonds set on the bezel, the演出 that beautifully expresses time is truly masterful.

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Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons
Case: 18K white gold (set with diamonds)
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 12.3mm
Movement: Automatic winding
Functions: Retrograde hour, Variable Speed Minutes, On-demand animation
Strap: Alligator
Water resistance: 3 bar
Availability: Scheduled for September
Estimated Price: 14.1 million JPY (excluding tax)



Page02.A Mechanical Watch Where Stars on the Dial Literally Shine




Inquiries


Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk


0120-10-1906


http://www.vancleefarpels.com/







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Weaving a World of Poetic Charm onto the Dial (2)



A Mechanical Watch Where Stars on the Dial Literally Shine


At Van Cleef & Arpels, watches bearing the model nameMidnightare also referred to as 'Poetic Astronomy' watches. While they have previously introduced timepieces with precise astronomical displays, the 'Midnight Nuit Lumineuse Watch' brings light to the dial through a unique and avant-garde mechanism.

Against a deep blue aventurine glass background, the dial depicts various constellations along with the mythical creature, the unicorn. Diamonds are set on the dial to represent the brightest stars in the night sky, while the unicorn is adorned with six stars of varying sizes. When the button at the 8 o'clock position of the case is pushed, these six stars illuminate.

How is this luminous mechanism possible in a purely mechanical watch?

Since the 18th century, the piezoelectric effect—a physical phenomenon where electricity is generated by applying mechanical pressure to certain materials—has been known. This watch applies this phenomenon using advanced ceramics. When the push-button is pressed, the movement vibrates, applying force to a strip of ceramic components within the case. This generates electricity through the piezoelectric effect, causing the electroluminescent diodes beneath the diamonds to emit light.

As long as the watch's power reserve remains, this illumination continues for three seconds, bestowing a beautiful radiance upon the timepiece.

Time is displayed on the left side of the dial with a fan-shaped hour track and a retrograde hour hand. It is a one-hand display, lacking even a minute hand. This watch, designed to represent the eternal cosmos, eschews the need for precise minute and second indications. It is a timepiece for leisurely enjoyment of time and astronomy.

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Midnight Nuit Lumineuse Watch
Case: 18K white gold
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Automatic winding
Functions: Retrograde time display (one-hand display with only hour hand), Light on demand (power generation and illumination via piezoelectric effect)
Strap: Alligator
Availability: Undetermined
Estimated Price: Undetermined



Page03.Beautifully Displaying Day and Night




Inquiries


Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk


0120-10-1906


http://www.vancleefarpels.com/







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Weaving a World of Poetic Charm onto the Dial (3)



Beautifully Displaying Day and Night


The 'Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Fée Ondine Watch' reveals numerous details that could only be realized by a high jeweler.

On the dial, a motif of 'Ondine, the water fairy,' rests on a water lily leaf. Using a technique called miniature painting, the water lily flowers and leaves are colored, and gems corresponding to their respective colors are set. The surface of the pond is rendered with translucent enamel, creating the illusion that Ondine's feet are actually touching the water.

Beneath this motif lies a rotating disc module that completes one revolution in 24 hours. The sky, depicted through miniature painting, and the sun and moon, rendered with delicate white or yellow diamonds respectively, are illustrated. At 6 AM, the sun rises, and the sky depicted on the disc transitions to daylight. At 6 PM, the moon appears, and the sky changes to night. Furthermore, the setting sun and moon are visible through the translucent water surface, appearing as if reflected in the water. This intricate craftsmanship is a testament to the skill of its master artisans.

The artistic expressiveness, including the ingenious use of the day/night display mechanism, is truly astounding.

Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Fée Ondine Watch
Case: 18K white gold (set with diamonds)
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 11.8mm
Movement: Manual winding
Functions: Day/Night display
Strap: Alligator
Water resistance: 3 bar
Availability: Scheduled for December 2016
Estimated Price: 15.5 million JPY (excluding tax)

Inquiries


Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk


0120-10-1906


http://www.vancleefarpels.com/