WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
January 29, 2016
Cartier: SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | CARTIER
CARTIER
A New Challenge for Men's Models (1)
On January 18, 2016, SIHH (commonly known as the Geneva Salon), a trade fair where luxury watchmaking Maisons gather, finally opened. Amidst much anticipation, including the participation of new brands with numerous excellent technologies, Cartier's energetic movements, such as releasing new collections for the second year in a row, immediately captured our attention at the opening.
Text by KAWADA Akinori
New Collection: Drive de Cartier
A watch for men. The "Drive de Cartier" wristwatch, which Cartier prepared for SIHH 2016, is, quite literally, such a watch.
It is true to instinct, active, yet possesses an elegant style. The combination of a gently flowing, hexagonal bezel and a cushion-shaped case evokes a retro feel reminiscent of the 1930s-40s, while exuding both dynamism and grace. It is a styling perfectly suited for the wrist of a man who lives freely, guided by his instincts. The powerful Roman numerals and delicate dial decoration accentuate its luxurious feel and presence.
The "Drive de Cartier" is a functionally complete collection for men, demonstrating Cartier's commitment to this line.
The "Automatic" three-hand model, equipped with the excellent in-house basic movement Caliber 1904-PS MC, stands out with its simple design and dial decoration reminiscent of a radiator grille.
Furthermore, based on this basic movement, models with retrograde second time zone displays and tourbillons are planned for future release.
Starting with the basic model, the "Drive de Cartier" will eventually be released in a total of seven variations, offering a rich selection. This model, with its blend of classical and modern aesthetics, can be worn in a wide range of settings. It is poised to be a highly anticipated presence in the watch scene of 2016.
Drive de Cartier
Case | 18K pink gold, stainless steel
Diameter | 40mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.1904-PS MC)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Release Date | Scheduled for May 2016
Estimated Price | ¥2.2 million (18K pink gold), ¥710,000 (stainless steel)
Inquiries
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp/
Page 02. The Art of Handcraft: "Panthère"
CARTIER
A New Challenge for Men's Models (2)
The Art of Handcraft: "Panthère"
In 2016, Cartier's craftsmanship is not only evident in the men's collection "Drive de Cartier" but also shines in its ladies' offerings. A notable characteristic is the strong emphasis on artistic watchmaking. In French, there is the term "métiers d'art," meaning "the art of handcraft." Models that embody this concept, both in their exterior and mechanics, have emerged. These are the numerous watches featuring the "Panthère," Cartier's icon since 1914, inspired by the panther.
First, I would like to introduce the "Panthère Mystérieuse." This piece offers two elements that are simply astonishing. One is the exquisite panther motif, masterfully crafted from white gold, diamonds, and black lacquer. The panther, positioned from the upper part of the case to the left side, possesses a lifelike three-dimensionality that is breathtaking in its vibrancy.
And what the panther gazes upon is the Mystery Clock, a hallmark of Cartier's watchmaking expertise since 1912. The technique of rotating hands using invisible sapphire crystal discs is a "miracle in watchmaking" that only Cartier can achieve.
In contrast, the "Panthère et Colibri Watch" unfolds a poetic world by combining an entirely new automaton mechanism with the panther motif. "Colibri" means hummingbird, and the dial features a panther crafted from 18K white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, and black lacquer, along with a hummingbird finished in gold. When the crown at 3 o'clock is pressed, a child panther, adorned in gold, appears at the panther's feet, and as if startled, the hummingbird gracefully ascends. This hummingbird's movement also serves as a power reserve indicator, displaying the remaining spring tension on demand. With this watch, Cartier has showcased an exceptionally unique automaton mechanism.
Furthermore, the "Ballon Bleu de Cartier Émail Granulation Panthère Motif" showcases the ultimate in artisanal handcraftsmanship, creating a true work of art on the dial. The panther's face is meticulously depicted with rich colors and a sense of depth. The dial, utilizing miniature enamel painting, is an extremely challenging art form due to its precision and the difficulty of firing. This watch's dial employs granulated enamel, where these grains are meticulously arranged within a frame depicting the panther, crafted using metal. Firing this creates a miniature painting with a three-dimensional quality, akin to an oil painting. Only two artisans in Cartier's workshops possess this technique, making it a truly unique "art of handcraft" displayed on the dial.
The Cartier ladies' collection for 2016 demonstrates an astonishing level of excellence in both its mechanisms and exterior design.
Panthère Mystérieuse
Case | Rhodium-plated 18K white gold, set with a panther made of 18K white gold featuring 533 brilliant-cut diamonds and two emeralds
Diameter | 40mm
Thickness | 8.5mm
Movement | Manual winding (Cal.9981 MC)
Functions | Mysterious hours (operates hour and minute hands using transparent discs)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Estimated Price | ¥20.4 million
Panthère et Colibri Watch
Case | Rhodium-plated 18K white gold, set with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds
Diameter | 42.75mm
Thickness | 11.4mm
Movement | Manual winding (Cal.9915MC)
Functions | Power reserve indicator (pressing the crown at 3 o'clock reveals a panther cub, and the hummingbird moves towards 12 o'clock based on the remaining spring tension)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Estimated Price | ¥20.2 million
Ballon Bleu de Cartier Émail Granulation Panthère Motif
Case | 18K yellow gold, set with 124 brilliant-cut diamonds
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 14.35mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.049)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Limited Edition | 30 pieces worldwide (with individual serial numbers)
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Estimated Price | ¥19.9 million
Inquiries
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp/
Page 03. A Watch for Contemplating the Grand Universe
CARTIER
A New Challenge for Men's Models (3)
A Watch for Contemplating the Grand Universe
In 2016, Cartier has produced numerous complication watches, but two particularly noteworthy pieces are the "Rotonde de Cartier Earth & Moon" and another model, both featuring exteriors and functions that evoke the cosmos.
The "Rotonde de Cartier Earth & Moon" is a high-level complication watch that allows one to enjoy not only the tourbillon but the entire internal mechanism by placing the time display off-center and boldly skeletonizing the dial.
A 24-hour rotating disc is arranged around the perimeter of the time display, and it is also a practical GMT watch, as the time can be advanced in one-hour increments by operating the button at the 2 o'clock position. What is even more astonishing is what happens when the button at the 4 o'clock position is pressed.
Upon pressing the button, a disc appears from the 4 o'clock direction and covers the tourbillon carriage at the 6 o'clock position. This is an on-demand moon phase mechanism that uses the carriage to represent the moon, depicting its phases in a groundbreaking system. Furthermore, this disc and the time display dial are made from slices of meteorite. The watch's exterior also consciously evokes the cosmos.
Meanwhile, the "Rotonde de Cartier Day/Night Retrograde Moon Phase" is a complication that artistically expresses astronomical phenomena. The lower half of the dial is dedicated to the moon phase, displayed by a retrograde hand. The lunar phases are beautifully finished in gold tones and represented by motifs adorned with diamonds and sapphires, with a ring-shaped hand indicating the phase of the moon.
For the time, in addition to a conventional minute hand, an index ring is placed around the outer edge of the upper half of the dial, and a rotating ring within it, depicting a sun and moon, serves as the hour hand to display the time. The sun appears at 6 AM, and the moon rises at 6 PM, indicating whether it is day or night.
These dials are colored with a deep blue lacquer reminiscent of the night sky, beautifully highlighting the motifs of the moon and stars depicted on the discs.
While their exterior characteristics differ, these are exquisite watches that offer an engaging display of the fundamental astronomical feature of the moon.
Rotonde de Cartier Earth & Moon
Case | 18K pink gold
Diameter | 47mm
Thickness | 16.65mm
Movement | Manual winding (Cal.9440 MC)
Functions | Tourbillon, on-demand moon phase (pressing the button at 4 o'clock hides the carriage with a disc, displaying the lunar phase), second time zone display
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Limited Edition | 15 pieces worldwide (with individual serial numbers)
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Estimated Price | ¥28.2 million
Rotonde de Cartier Day/Night Retrograde Moon Phase
Case | Rhodium-plated 18K white gold (68 brilliant-cut diamonds set on the bezel, 118 on the dial)
Diameter | 40mm
Thickness | 12.16mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.9912MC)
Functions | Retrograde moon phase (displays lunar phase with a bidirectional hand), time display via rotating disc
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Estimated Price | ¥10.7 million
Rotonde de Cartier Astro Mysterious
Case | Palladium 950
Diameter | 43.5mm
Movement | Manual winding (Cal.9462MC)
Power Reserve | 50 hours
Strap | Black alligator
Water Resistance | Daily use
Limited Edition | 100 pieces worldwide (with individual serial numbers)
Release Date | Scheduled for April 2016
Price | ¥20.6 million
Inquiries
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp/












