Audemars Piguet | Geneva Salon: A Comprehensive Report!
Audemars Piguet
The Masterpiece "Royal Oak" Returns to Its Roots for its 40th Anniversary!
Unlike cars, there are a few masterpieces in the watch industry that have maintained their basic design for decades since their inception. Remarkably, most of them were created by a single genius who passed away in the summer of 2011. In 2012, Audemars Piguet renewed this masterpiece collection, created by that genius, to commemorate its 40th anniversary.
Text & Event Photographs by SHIBUYA Yasuhito
One of the flagship products of Audemars Piguet, a leading name in the Swiss watchmaking industry, is the "Royal Oak." Designed by Gérald Genta, hailed as "the greatest watch designer of the 20th century," this slim sports watch in stainless steel, first unveiled at Basel Fair in 1972, celebrates its 40th anniversary this year.
This timepiece, which created the now most popular genre in the watch industry, "luxury sports watches," and continues to shine unrivaled, is one of the greatest legends in the modern watchmaking world.
A luxury watch, yet made of stainless steel instead of gold. A sports watch, yet with an ultra-thin movement. An integrated bracelet with the elegance of a dress watch. And a price higher than gold… It is a well-known fact that this model, which directly challenged the prevailing notions of "luxury watches = gold material" and "sports watches = thick and robust construction" at the time of its debut, was not well-received within the industry. However, contrary to the expectations of those involved, the "Royal Oak" garnered enthusiastic support from active celebrities worldwide as a timepiece perfectly suited to their lifestyles. It has reigned as the "originator and ultimate" of "luxury sports watches" to this day.
On its 40th anniversary, how should this masterpiece be "redesigned"? The answer from Octavio Garcia, Audemars Piguet's Design Director, was clear: a "return to the origin" of the original.
The correctness of this decision is evident in the reissued model, which features the exact same size and movement as the first original model. There is no need to alter perfection. Based on this origin, the details of all models, including the dial and size, have been re-examined and further refined for enhanced completeness.
Additionally, two models, the "Skeleton Extra Thin" and "SkeletonTourbillonExtra Thin," are also available as limited editions for the 40th anniversary. Both are collector's items that embody Audemars Piguet's unique technology and craftsmanship, making them unmissable for watch enthusiasts.
"Royal Oak Reissue Model"
Faithfully Recreating the Original First Model
This two-hand premium watch, a symbol of the "return to origin," is a faithful reissue and evolution of the first model, known as the "Jumbo" among collectors, which was unveiled at Basel Fair in 1972. The integrated bracelet, with its precisely sized links, achieves exquisite fit and a beautiful form. The octagonal bezel is secured with white gold screws. The movement is, of course, the in-house "Caliber 2121," a renowned ultra-thin automatic movement familiar to watch enthusiasts. Composed of 247 parts, this low-beat mechanism, oscillating at 19,800 vibrations per hour, can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The evolution from the previous "reissue model" lies in the dial now featuring the traditional "Petite Tapisserie" pattern, engraved by a mechanical process, just like the original. The hour markers at 12 o'clock have returned to the original bar type, and the AP logo is now positioned at the traditional 6 o'clock. Furthermore, the bracelet clasp has been modernized with a double safety clasp, and the automatic winding rotor is now made of 22K gold for improved winding efficiency. This truly represents an ideal fusion of returning to the origin and evolving simultaneously.
Automatic, stainless steel case and bracelet, 39mm case diameter, 8.1mm case thickness, sapphire crystal case back, screw-down crown, 50-meter water resistance, ¥1,837,500 (estimated price). Scheduled for release in June. Also available in a pink gold case and bracelet model.
"Royal Oak Automatic"
A Three-Hand Model Radiating Unchanging Charm
The standard automatic three-hand model, not just the two-hand reissue, has also been newly updated this time. The differences from the reissue are the addition of a center seconds hand, the dial pattern being "Grand Tapisserie," the hour marker at 12 o'clock being the AP logo, and the "Audemars Piguet" logo below it being smaller. Case sizes are available in two options: 41mm (men's) and 37mm (unisex). Both are equipped with Audemars Piguet's proud in-house automatic movement, "Caliber 3120," similar to "Caliber 2121," and its movement can also be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The price is also somewhat more affordable than the reissue model, resulting in a highly attractive timepiece.
Automatic, stainless steel case and bracelet, 41mm or 37mm case diameter, sapphire crystal case back, screw-down crown, 50-meter water resistance, ¥1,365,000 (estimated price). Scheduled for release in June. Additionally, pink gold case and bracelet versions, pink gold case with crocodile strap specifications, and diamond-set specifications for the 37mm size are also available.
"Royal Oak Chronograph"
Increased Size and Enhanced Specifications
The "Royal Oak" chronograph model has been renewed with a 2mm increase in diameter from the previous 39mm to 41mm. The "Grand Tapisserie" patterned dial with applied indices has also been refined with more beautiful and intricate detailing, significantly improving legibility. Its most notable feature is that it is an elegant, slim chronograph, similar to the automatic models, including the reissue. The case thickness of 10.8mm, housing the acclaimed low-beat (21,600 vibrations per hour) chronograph movement "Caliber 2385," is only 1mm thicker than the 9.8mm case thickness of the 41mm automatic model. Despite being a chronograph, it is not just sporty but also a chronograph for adults that fits perfectly with dressy attire.
Automatic, pink gold case, crocodile strap, 41mm case diameter, 10.8mm case thickness, screw-down crown, 50-meter water resistance, ¥3,675,000 (estimated price). Scheduled for release in June. Also available in stainless steel case and bracelet, and pink gold case and bracelet specifications.
"Royal Oak Quartz"
The Long-Awaited 33mm Size, Perfect for Japanese Women
The Royal Oak's only quartz model is now available in a 33mm diameter, fitting slender female wrists. Despite the significantly smaller size, the meticulous design of the dial indices and logo creates a perfect balance, comparable to the other models. All models, whether in stainless steel or pink gold as pictured, feature 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (totaling 0.71 carats) set on the bezel, adding a brilliant sparkle to the wrist. Stainless steel case models are also available with crocodile straps, while pink gold case models come with white or brown rubber straps.
Quartz, stainless steel case and bracelet, diamond bezel, 33mm case diameter, 7mm case thickness, screw-down crown, 50-meter water resistance, ¥1,207,500 (estimated price). Scheduled for release in June.
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000



