Cartier | Geneva Salon: A Comprehensive Report!
Cartier
A New Tank, Its First in Over a Decade, Arrives!
The definitive classic in men's watches is Cartier's "Tank." This secret weapon, which revolutionized ground warfare, was born from the motif of two tank tracks, its most distinctive feature. Since its launch, it has continued to revolutionize the world of watches. And this year, Cartier has once again revolutionized watch design with a new Tank.
Text & Event Photographs by SHIBUYA Yasuhito
Cartier, a leading maison at SIHH, captivates the world with its exceptional design prowess and gem-setting artistry. Its illustrious history is adorned with numerous "timeless masterpieces" that have left their mark on watchmaking, primarily in the realm of jewelry watches.
Since 2009, it has been developing complex watches equipped with in-house movements, steadily solidifying its position as a comprehensive watch maison. In 2012, alongside artistic new jewelry watches that inspire sighs of admiration, new complex timepieces designed to delight watch connoisseurs have emerged, led by the minute repeater flying tourbillon.Tourbillonemerged, led by the minute repeater flying tourbillon.
However, the biggest topic of 2012 is undoubtedly the new collection for the historically significant "Tank" model, "Tank Anglaise," announced with the phrase "NEVER STOP TANK." This is the first new Tank collection in over a decade.
The strongest icon of Cartier watches, originating from the 1917 original model. This latest creation, distinct from the highly acclaimed elongated "Tank Américaine" and the square "Tank Française" among its predecessors, boasts a perfectly balanced and beautiful form as its greatest appeal. Furthermore, to perfect this form, the highly functional two-tiered crown is elegantly integrated into the right side of the case.
The traditional Tank details, such as Roman numeral indexes, railway minute markers, and blued steel sword-shaped hands, are faithfully inherited. The case is available in three sizes: SM, MM, and LM. Another masterpiece, destined to be owned by anyone, regardless of gender, has been added to Cartier's history. Additionally, the ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound model "Tank Louis XL Extra Flat" and the boldly designed "Tank Folle," embodying quirkiness and originality, have been introduced. For those who understand the history and value of the Tank, these are also models not to be missed.
"Tank Anglaise Watch LM"
The Ultimate Tank Embodiment of Beauty
Among the new "Tank Anglaise" collection, this is the large model created by Cartier for the discerning gentleman. Housed within a rhodium-finished white gold case with integrated bracelet and perfect design balance, it features Cartier's in-house automatic movement, the "1904 MC," a testament to its status as a manufacture. The pleasure of admiring its movement through the sapphire case back is also provided. "Anglaise" means English in French. During the era when Louis Cartier created the Tank, he had boutiques in three countries:—his native France, America, and England.
Automatic winding, rhodium-finished white gold case & bracelet, exhibition case back. Case dimensions: 47mm length x 36.2mm width. Estimated price: ¥3,702,000. Scheduled release: June. (Pre-sale price)
"Tank Anglaise Watch SM"
Perfect for Slender Japanese Wrists
Within the new "Tank Anglaise" collection, this is the small-sized model with a pink gold case and bracelet, designed to fit the delicate wrists of Japanese women perfectly. The case sides are adorned with two rows of diamonds on each side, totaling approximately 0.8 carats. This is a Tank watch for the elegant lady, suitable not only for formal evening wear but also for business suits and traditional Japanese attire.
Quartz. Case dimensions: 30.2mm length x 22.7mm width. Estimated price: ¥3,063,900. Scheduled release: June. (Pre-sale price)
"Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon"
A Minute Repeater Pursuing the Finest Sound
Developed over five years with the theme of "maintaining a classic structure while achieving the best sound based on the latest acoustic research," this is a groundbreaking minute repeater tourbillon watch. Based on the latest research findings that "a lighter case and larger diameter are better for amplifying sound," a titanium case has been adopted. To ensure efficient sound wave transmission, it incorporates innovative technologies that overturn conventional watchmaking, such as fixing the gongs to the mainplate and the mainplate to the case body at four points. Geneva Seal certified.
Hand-wound. Case diameter: 45mm. Limited production of 50 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: ¥29,043,000. Scheduled release: Autumn. A pink gold case version is also limited to 50 pieces worldwide.
"Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar"
Cartier's First Annual Calendar
This is the first model in Cartier's history to feature an "annual calendar" mechanism, which manages long and short months, requiring no calendar correction throughout the year except for the transition from February 28th to March 1st. The caliber 9908 MC, developed based on Cartier's in-house automatic movement, caliber 1904 MC, features an innovative adjustment mechanism that allows for easy correction of the day, date, and month using a single crown, unlike similar models from other brands. Furthermore, the reliability and durability of the mechanism have been thoroughly pursued. In addition to the big date, the index-based display for the day and month integrated within the dial is also unique. Geneva Seal certified.
Automatic winding, white gold case. Case diameter: 45mm. Estimated price: ¥3,401,100. Scheduled release: Autumn.
"Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Rotonde Tourbillon"
A New Flight for the Flying Tourbillon
This artistic tourbillon model features a tourbillon that rotates dynamically, as if "floating in mid-air," like a graceful ballet dancer, within an off-center sub-dial on the right side of the case. The cage of the flying tourbillon, designed in the motif of Cartier's "C," functions as the second hand, marking time at a speed of one rotation per minute. The tourbillon mechanism is arranged in reverse of the usual configuration, allowing for visual enjoyment of its movement, which is typically not visible from the dial side. Furthermore, a significant feature is the meticulous hand-finishing of all components, including the one-plate mainplate visible from the case back, in accordance with the Geneva Seal standards.
Hand-wound, white gold case. Case diameter: 46mm. Limited production of 100 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: ¥11,850,300. Scheduled release: Autumn. A model with baguette-cut diamonds set on the case is also limited to 20 pieces worldwide.
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