WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
March 30, 2015
ZENITH | A Must-See Military-Inspired Chronograph Featuring the Legacy of a Legendary Flyback Movement!
ZENITH | The Zenith
Inheriting the Mechanism of the Legendary Flyback Chronograph
A New Military-Inspired Chronograph is a Must-See!
Developed in 1969, an automatic-windingchronographZenith, one of Switzerland's leading manufacturers, develops its collections around the "El Primero," a masterpiece of a chronograph movement. In 2011, the trend across the watch industry for retro-classic, affordably priced chronographs will see further expansion.
Reporting and text by Yasuhito Shibuya
The "El Primero" Continues to Shine After 42 Years
Founded in 1865, Zenith is one of the most valuable heritage brands today, embodying the charm of Swiss mechanical watches. The brand's forte lies in chronographs and high-precision watchmaking. From the pocket watch era to the wristwatch era, Zenith was a consistent contender in chronometer competitions organized by observatories, where watchmakers vied for accuracy and adjustment techniques.
In 1969, the "El Primero," an automatic chronograph movement that remains the brand's signature, was born. Unfortunately, it narrowly missed the honor of being the "world's first automatic chronograph movement," and production was discontinued just a year after the advent of quartz watches. However, the watch world did not forget the existence of this superior movement, which achieved high precision with its high-beat 10-beat-per-second mechanism. In 1984, in response to industry professionals' requests to "use the El Primero," production resumed, and movement supply to other companies began. It earned an unshakeable reputation as a masterpiece of automatic chronograph movements. It is a well-known fact that Rolex, which never compromised on precision and durability, adopted the El Primero until it developed its own chronograph movement.
A Style Embodying the Brand's Core Strengths
Since becoming part of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis VuittonLouis Vuittongroup in 2000, the brand has pursued a strategy of becoming a luxury brand, leading to the successful development of bold chronographs and complex models based on the El Primero movement. However, around 2009, as the El Primero celebrated its 40th anniversary, Zenith adapted to market changes following the Lehman Shock by shifting the design of its avant-garde collections to styles from the 1960s and early 1970s, around the time the El Primero was born. Encouragingly, prices have also become much more accessible.
Last year, Zenith showcased its technical prowess with the "El Primero Striking 10th," a high-speed chronograph capable of accurately measuring to 1/10th of a second with a hand that completes a dial rotation in 10 seconds. In 2011, Zenith further enhances the El Primero line withtourbillonmodels, Zenith's first annual calendar model, and a pilot's chronograph that inherits the style of early 21st-century pilot watches, presenting an even more impressive lineup than last year. Among these, the most recommended is the "El Primero Stratos-Flyback Chronograph," a revived and evolved version of the "Rainbow Flyback," a hit flyback-function chronograph launched in 1999. Its refined style, a blend of military watch aesthetics and early El Primero models, along with its reasonable price, is truly remarkable.
El Primero Stratos-Flyback Chronograph
Equipped with the Legendary El Primero Caliber with Flyback Function
This new chronograph is equipped with the "El Primero Caliber 405B," the same movement used in the automatic "Rainbow Flyback," a chronograph with a telemeter function and flyback mechanism developed in cooperation with the French Air Force in 1997 and released in 1999. The meticulous attention to functionality, such as the double anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal, is also commendable. The model name "Stratos" originates from the adventurous project of Felix Baumgartner, an Austrian supported by Zenith, who will undertake a parachute jump from the stratosphere. In addition to the model shown in the photo, various other variations are available, including cases made of special alloy Alchron and gold with diamonds.high jewelryspecifications.
Automatic winding, stainless steel case, 45.5mm case diameter, alligator strap with rubber protection, see-through case back, 100m water resistance, 640,000 yen.
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Zenith
03-3263-9620
http://www.zenith-watches.com/