WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
March 30, 2015
Cartier | Timepieces Showcasing the Beauty and Spirit of Complex Mechanisms
Cartier
Proving its "King" status in the realm of complicated watches!
Unveiling coveted and astonishing new creations
From the "King" of Jewelers and Watchmakers to the "King" of Manufactures—What are Cartier's new timepieces that have captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts who cherish the beauty and esprit of complex mechanisms?
By Yasuhito Shibuya
Cartier began its ascent to become not only the "King" of Jewelers and Watchmakers but also the "King" of Manufacture Watchmakers in January 2009 at the Geneva Salon, announcing numerous new models entirely developed and manufactured in-house, featuring groundbreaking mechanisms that mark a new chapter in the history of mechanical complications. Three years later, this goal, at least concerning complicated watches, appears to have been achieved.
This year's "Haute Horlogerie Collection," the series of high-end mechanical watches, introduces a total of 12 new products. Among these are models featuring four new complicated movements, three of which were developed, manufactured, and assembled in Cartier's in-house workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Each finished product is sure to captivate the hearts of watch enthusiasts who appreciate the beauty and esprit of complex mechanisms.
Among these, the most astonishing products are the "Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon," which features a new mechanism that eliminates the influence of gravity on timekeeping accuracy,tourbillonand the "Calibre de Cartier Multiple Time Zones," the first GMT model in the series, which allows for reading the time difference between home and travel times and also accommodates daylight saving time. Furthermore, the "Calibre de Cartier," launched last year with a fully in-house developed movement and a global hit, now has a much-anticipated bracelet version added.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon
Featuring a revolutionary movement that surpasses the tourbillon!
This is the first wristwatch in the world to feature the "Astrotourbillon" mechanism, which ensures five times greater accuracy by eliminating the vertical gravitational effects that a tourbillon cannot fully negate. The mechanism consists of a "rotor"—integrating the escapement, balance wheel, and small seconds—positioned at the center of the movement, which always returns to the same position. This rotor, equipped with a platinum weight, also functions as an automatic winding rotor for the mainspring barrel, winding it as it returns to its original position, thus enabling bidirectional winding. Furthermore, it is the first commercially available watch to utilize a case made of niobium-titanium alloy, an ultra-light material with inherent shock-absorbing properties. This timepiece represents the pinnacle of current innovation in both mechanism and materials.
Automatic, fully in-house developed, 21,600 vibrations/hour, approximately 80-hour power reserve "Caliber 9800 MC" new movement, 50mm diameter niobium-titanium alloy case, same material crown with sapphire cabochon, black alligator strap, sapphire crystal case back, limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Expected release around Autumn 2011. Price: 28,612,500 yen.
Calibre de Cartier Multiple Time Zones
A groundbreaking GMT model that displays time differences and accommodates daylight saving time
The home time is indicated by a day/night indicator with sun and moon symbols on the upper part of an inner dial at the center of the watch face. The travel time (local time) is shown by the regular hour and minute hands on the same axis, also at the center of the dial. This is the first GMT model in Cartier's "Haute Horlogerie Collection" to display the time difference between these two times on the lower part of the inner dial. The city names for setting the home time zone are displayed in a small window with a lens on the side of the case, and the setting is ingeniously done using push buttons above and below the crown. Moreover, the time difference display on the lower part of the inner dial features a two-tiered display that accommodates daylight saving time.
Automatic, fully in-house developed, 28,800 vibrations/hour, approximately 48-hour power reserve "Caliber 9909 MC" movement, 45mm diameter white gold case, crown with sapphire cabochon, black alligator strap, sapphire crystal case back. Expected release around Autumn 2011. Price: 3,906,000 yen. Rose gold material: 3,654,000 yen.
Calibre de Cartier Steel White Dial
The long-awaited metal bracelet model of the "Calibre"
Debuted at the Geneva Salon in 2010 as Cartier's first sporty model exclusively for men and the first sporty watch with a fully in-house developed movement. The "Calibre de Cartier," with its strong yet elegant design, became a global bestseller, including in Japan, and now features its much-anticipated bracelet version. The newly designed bracelet, finished with a combination of polished and satin surfaces, is both dressy and elegant, offering exceptional wearing comfort. The steel case and bracelet model is available in a sophisticated "Silver Opaline Dial" (white) as pictured, as well as a more assertive black dial version. Additionally, there is a "Gold & Steel" model that combines stainless steel with rose gold for the bezel and bracelet.
Automatic, fully in-house developed, 28,800 vibrations/hour "Caliber 1904 PS MC" movement, 42mm diameter, 10mm thick stainless steel case and newly designed stainless steel bracelet. Released April 2011. Price: 697,200 yen.
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