DIOR FINE JEWELRY | An Interview with Victoire de Castellane

DIOR FINE JEWELRY

Dior Fine Jewelry Publishes First Photobook

An Interview with Victoire de Castellane!

Like a fairytale brimming with fantasy, and the crystallization of unparalleled craftsmanship… The Dior Fine Jewelry collection seems to encapsulate the world imagined by Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane. Here, alongside an introduction to their first photobook, is an interview with Victoire.

Text by OPENERS

Victoire's Boundless Creative World and Creations

Victoire de Castellane was appointed Artistic Director of Dior Fine Jewelry in 1998. Her jewelry, inspired by pop culture, natural motifs like flowers, and the extravagant visuals of Bollywood (the colloquial name for Mumbai, the center of Indian cinema production), always overflows with playfulness and designs that evoke a fantastical otherworld. It is no exaggeration to say that through Victoire, a great transformation has been brought to the world ofHaute Joaillerie.

The first photobook, 'DIOR JOAILLERIE,' showcasing these works of art, has finally been published. It is a volume that allows us to explore the secrets behind Victoire's brilliant creativity.

To mark the release of this photobook, we interviewed Victoire de Castellane.

—What sparked your interest in jewelry?

Victoire de Castellane (hereinafter, Victoire)It was my grandmother, Sylvia Hennessy. She would choose jewelry to match her outfits, sometimes changing them up to three times a day. She was someone who never compromised on her style, always wearing lipstick and having her nails painted. When she appeared, the surroundings would brighten, and everyone would be captivated. She was not what you'd call a typical 'grandmother.' She was like a Hollywood heroine.

One of her close friends was Barbara Hutton, an American millionaire who had also been married to Cary Grant. Hutton wore emerald tiaras even during the day and lived in a palace-like mansion in Tangier. My grandmother associated with writers, Hollywood stars, and couturiers—Including Christian Dior?—Surrounded by such people, she lived in a world completely different from the general public. She was the epitome of a jet-setter.

—When did you first become interested in jewelry? And how, specifically?

VictoireAt the age of five, I dismantled earrings my mother gave me because I thought they were much more beautiful in pieces. At twelve, I took the medal depicting a saint from a charm bracelet my mother had given me 'with love,' melted it down, and made my own ring.

—Why are you drawn to jewelry with such extraordinary volume?

VictoireThis also stems from my childhood fascination with the jewelry of my paternal grandmother, Sylvia Hennessy. Her gemstones, set using very classic techniques, appeared enormous to my young eyes. This 'extraordinary volume' also exists in the world of haute couture. In haute couture, 500 meters of silk might be used to create an evening gown. In the realm of jewelry, the equivalent would be an 80-carat stone. I revived the cocktail ring, but at first, everyone was astonished, saying, 'What an outrageous idea!'

—What kind of inspiration do women provide for you?

VictoireAs a child, my eyes were fixed on women, and that continues to this day. Women are heroines to me. The image of the female form never leaves my mind, and I am equally fond of pin-up girls and elegant elderly ladies. I love the allure of glamorous women, the theatricality of Hollywood style, Marilyn Monroe, and Elizabeth Taylor in 'Cleopatra.'

I observe women. Young ones, old ones, those with voluptuous figures, beautiful women, those who are not so beautiful, those with a masculine air, or those who are very feminine. I believe women are a source of immense inspiration. I love their voices, the way they walk, the heels of their shoes, the jewelry they wear, and their gestures.

What I aim to create are jewels that become friends to women, jewels that protect them. Jewelry can be passed down from mother to daughter. In doing so, a woman's memory endures. When I wear jewelry that belonged to my grandmother's grandmother, I feel her presence vividly. She lives on through me.

Even 4,000 years from now, unless an asteroid impact causes cataclysm on Earth, jewelry will likely remain! Jewelry is a fragment of eternity. I wish for the jewelry I create to give women the power to escape reality. Furthermore, I believe jewelry should be a means for women to gain freedom. When a woman needs to escape, she can take her jewelry with her.

—How does a collection come into being?

VictoireThe process is always the same. Once the image of a finished piece of jewelry forms in my mind, I quickly sketch it on a Post-it note and explain to my studio staff what kind of jewelry it is. Then, the staff creates a drawing with gouache paints. I hand this drawing over to the jewelry workshops in Paris, and from there, there are numerous exchanges between the workshop and myself. From the wax work to casting, stone setting, and polishing, at every stage, I must ensure that the piece aligns with the jewelry image I envisioned.

—Does a story serve as the starting point for your creations? Or is it the stones?

VictoireWith the exception of 'Coffret de Victoire,' which exceptionally started with materials, I always begin my creations based on a story. When I took charge of Dior's jewelry, I wanted to expand upon the Maison's themes. These include, for example, Christian Dior's garden in Milly-la-Forêt, couture, and eccentric balls.

—Where do you find the stories that serve as the basis for your ideas?

VictoireFrom everywhere. Art, exhibitions, films, photography, the street, the world of women, love, passion, psychoanalysis, life… The jewelry I design, in a sense, becomes characters in a story, and it is my role to give them names.

—Do you have a favorite stone?

VictoireOpals. They possess a brilliance akin to fire and seem almost alive. Like Monet's 'Water Lilies,' they contain a multitude of colors, as if spirits reside within them.

—Have you consistently been involved in jewelry design throughout your career?

VictoireYes, I designed costume jewelry for Chanel for 14 years. During my lunch breaks, I would go out and buy antique jewelry, customizing it myself. However, I was always dissatisfied because I couldn't find jewelry large enough for my liking. So, I commissioned a small workshop in Paris to make a very large ring… that became the catalyst for my current style.

—Do you have any favorite jewelers?

VictoireLalique, for his superb depiction of women, and also Boivin, and Belperron.

'Dior Joaillerie'
Hardcover (English) / Approx. 23 x 30 cm
Suggested Retail Price | $75
Publisher | Rizzoli New York
*Also available at select major foreign book retailers in Japan.

Christian Dior
Tel. 03-3263-2266