CHAPTER 4: 2020's Sports Models Embrace Style with the Distinctive Presence of S&G Combi

TUDOR

Practicality Meets Prestige: Gold Adds a Subtle, Special Touch

The combination of stainless steel and gold is hardly new. Sport watches have often incorporated gold to add a premium feel to the lightness and sporty gleam of steel. Yet, the look of this "Black Bay Chrono S&G" possesses a novel appeal. It blends seamlessly into daily life while exuding a special presence, striking a balance that avoids being ostentatious. It's a rare item, showcasing excellent craftsmanship as an industrial product and inviting admiration for its design.

Photographs by OKAMURA Masahiro (CROSSOVER) | Text & Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Why Does the Gold on the "Black Bay Chrono S&G" Look So Appealing?

It was once said that Japanese people favored white gold, appreciating its subtlety – the way it wasn't immediately identifiable as gold, or perhaps even stainless steel. While I have no argument with that, what if the use of gold itself were inherently justified? If solid gold were used in parts that truly deserve to stand out, wouldn't that resonate with the Japanese aesthetic that values rationality? Instead of hiding it, shouldn't it be proudly displayed? Just as samurai armor often featured a coordination of black and gold, I believe our DNA naturally responds to the inherent significance of gold in the right places.

Viewed from this perspective, the first elements that catch the eye on the "Black Bay Chrono S&G" are the crown and the pushers above and below it. The crown on this model is slightly larger than usual, making its presence prominent. This feature, once known as the "Big Crown," is a nod to Tudor's dive watches from 1958, when the brand first achieved a 200m water resistance. At the time, a larger crown allowed for a robust screw-down design, dramatically doubling the water resistance from the previous 100m limit.

With modern technology, it would certainly be possible to revert to a standard-sized crown. Yet, it is deliberately retained as a mark of distinction, honored here with gold.

Next, let's turn our attention to the bezel. This too is crafted from solid gold, with markings applied via black anodization to create the tachymeter scale. The tachymeter is a defining feature of a chronograph, and a key element of interest. While Tudor's chronographs have maintained a consistent design lineage (※), this enduring design of the tachymeter speaks to that history and tradition.

※ Since the debut of the first model in 1970, Tudor chronographs have consistently featured a 500-unit tachymeter scale.

The decision to anodize this crucial area is what seals the deal. While premium chronographs often opt for sapphire crystal or ceramic, this model adheres to the traditional anodization process, keeping the coating thin and preserving the edgy design of a bygone era. True to Tudor, its commitment to heavy-duty construction perfectly aligns with the brand's philosophy. The sheer integrity of this stance is captivating.

And then there's the use of gold on the dial. The two-counter layout in champagne gold gains depth and character from its slightly recessed, three-dimensional construction. Also, note the matte finish of the gold, which tempers its brilliance. This understated quality is what prevents the gold from appearing gaudy, keeping it elegantly subdued.

Not only the two counters, but also the seconds track on the outer edge of the dial, the trim on the "snowflake" hands, and the hour markers are all unified in a matte champagne gold. These details embody the history of Tudor's chronographs and dive watches. They are a testament to continuous refinement, and the gold is used to accentuate them.

In essence, there is a valid reason for the use of gold in every part. It's not merely a decorative addition for fashion's sake; the significance lies in applying gold to areas that serve practical functions. This is precisely why the model possesses such a unique style.

Its meticulously crafted appearance exudes a dignified beauty.

The term "dignified" is fitting for the case back of the "Black Bay." It is not transparent, prioritizing water resistance. Beyond being screw-down, no additional decoration is applied. It's a testament to its unadorned simplicity.

The bracelet, made specifically for this model, is a riveted type inspired by archives from the 1950s and '60s. The combination of visible rivet heads on the side and the stepped bracelet design adds a distinctive accent. Moreover, it's not overly heavy, maintaining a good balance with the watch case. Bracelets on heavy-duty watches can often feel unnecessarily weighty, but this model feels light and comfortable to wear.

In addition to the popular fabric strap, a leather strap is also available. The backing, reminiscent of military design, is removable. It's a brown leather strap with striking white stitching.

Tudor is currently highlighting the "Black Bay Chrono S&G." Among the brand's many popular models, this represents its current culmination. And I believe the appeal of the "Black Bay Chrono S&G" will not fade for decades to come. This is because the product's perfection, which harmonizes the brand's history of accumulated refinements with the premium feel of gold, is so high that it leaves no room for imitation.

Watch trends may come and go, but some models retain their presence through it all. I believe the "Black Bay Chrono S&G" will be one of those rare models.