WATCH & JEWELRY /
FEATURES
March 5, 2021
Equipped with an innovative caliber offering high vibration and long power reserve. The iconic Grand Seiko model, reimagined in a new design.
Presented by GRAND SEIKOGrand Seiko | GRAND SEIKO
The Ideal Form of Mechanical Watchcraft, Embodying Japan's Unique Aesthetic Sensibility Alongside the Pinnacle of Practical Timekeeping (1)
A new chapter in Grand Seiko's history begins here. The brand's philosophy and beliefs regarding all of creation, expressed on the dial; a beautiful form reinterpreted with contemporary sensibility, embodying the design philosophy passed down through generations, "Seiko Style"; and a dramatically improved, state-of-the-art mechanical movement. It is not difficult to imagine this model, elevated in every aspect, eventually earning global acclaim. The pinnacle of both technology and concept. We are confident this model will become the very heart of Japanese haute horlogerie, leaving its mark on history as an epoch-making piece.
Photographs by OKAMURA Masahiro (CROSSOVER) | Edit & Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Translating the Brand Philosophy "THE NATURE OF TIME" into a New Design Protocol
An unprecedentedly original dial. Mirror and hairline finishes intricately intertwine, creating light and shadow that lend the dial an organic appearance.
The imagery evokes a forest filled with clear air, enveloped in a serene stillness. It is said to be inspired by the birch forests of Hiraniwa Plateau, located in Iwate Prefecture, the same prefecture as the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, where Grand Seiko's mechanical models are manufactured.
Inspired by the nature surrounding the workshop where Grand Seiko's mechanical watches are made, the dial's design theme is the stand of birch trees. © mat / PIXTA
Upon closer inspection, one can see a remarkably three-dimensional texture with considerable depth. The realism is such that it evokes the texture of tree bark. I believe one could gaze at it endlessly without ever tiring of it. Furthermore, do you notice the subtle shadows cast by the hour markers and the brand logo onto the dial? Each component is applied after the dial has been smoothly coated with a clear finish.
Wristwatches, which became practical in the early 20th century, evolved under the influence of Art Deco, popular in Europe at the time. Consequently, the guilloché dials of Swiss manufacturers are all geometric, featuring artificial arrangements of straight lines and curves.
While those are indeed wonderful, Grand Seiko has once again embraced Japanese aesthetics. This means adhering to the ancient Japanese style of coexistence with nature, rather than separating humanity from it, reflecting a worldview where divinity is found in all things.
An unconscious sense of "calm" and "rightness." Is this found in artificial forms, or in the myriad phenomena of nature as the seasons change? There is no superiority to be judged, but my answer lies with the latter.
More Legible, More Wearable: Updating "Seiko Style"
"Seiko Style" is a design philosophy cultivated through the evolution of Grand Seiko. It refers to the functional beauty achieved through the refinement of practical features, prioritizing accuracy, legibility, beauty, and wearability on the wrist.
This model is equipped with unprecedentedly voluminous indices and broad hands. While this design enhances legibility, it also creates a majestic presence that contrasts beautifully with the dial's nature-inspired texture. It inspires pride with every glance. This is how a watch's "face" should be.
It's not just the "face." The case form is natural and unforced, with a flowing, organic three-dimensionality. The mirror-finished surfaces on both sides of the case are smooth, and the case shape curves gently towards the lugs. This is a testament to the exquisite Zaratsu polishing technique, skillfully executed by master craftsmen, and its dignified power feels truly exceptional.
The case form is also related to the thinness of the movement. This movement achieves a slim profile of just 5.18mm. Consequently, there was no need to force a flat impression through case design, allowing for a natural, flowing aesthetic.
The thinness of the movement itself reduces the height from the case back to the crown stem. This allows for a low center of gravity in the case design, resulting in exceptional stability when worn on the wrist.
While watch history includes models like "Carvex" with cases that curve significantly to follow the wrist, this model's case line rests on the wrist with a more natural curve, offering stability as if it were adhering to the arm.
The bracelet design has also been completely renewed for this model. All five links are finished with hairline brushing, which reduces glare and allows the dial to stand out. The links are small, and by increasing the number of parts, the bracelet conforms to the wrist, enhancing the fit to an unprecedented degree.
Every aspect of the design is a pursuit of the function of telling time on the wrist. Its perfect finish creates a sharp impression.