Watch & Jewelry
March 30, 2015
AZ Collection | Interview with Atsuko Sano, Jewelry Producer
AS collection
Jewelry Producer Atsuko Sano Interview
What is Atsuko Sano's "jewelry philosophy" as the Jewelry Producer of AS collection? And how did this "jewelry philosophy" come to be cultivated? From her aesthetic of wearing jewelry with a free sensibility, you'll discover the relationship between fashion and jewelry, and new possibilities for jewelry.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by Jamandfix
In Pursuit of Originality and Fusion with Fashion
The beauty of three-dimensional forms, reminiscent of small architectural structures; the combination of colored stones and precious metals. Series inspired by classic cars, or motifs drawn from the beauty of natural forms – a unique originality unlike other jewelers. Anyone who sees AS collection jewelry will surely have such an impression.
"For me, jewelry is a part of fashion. I believe that not only women but also men will increasingly wear jewelry in the future, and I think they should," says Atsuko Sano, Jewelry Producer of AS collection.
Sano's connection with jewelry began in her childhood.
"A gemologist visited the salon my grandmother used to run. I was always there from a young age, so through that encounter, I naturally came to think that "jewelry is something one should make oneself." In my teens, I was more inspired by discussions of jewelry design from a technical perspective, and from there, during my university years, I studied production under that instructor."
While competing in the male-dominated world of jewelry production, Sano felt a pull towards a different path.—The desire to know more about gemstones themselves, to specialize in them, rather than just production, deepened.
"Immediately after graduating from university, I went to America and worked in sales in Malibu, where Hollywood stars live... I went through various kinds of training. What I felt while selling was that it wasn't the outlandish items that sold, but rather the solid, dependable ones. But the jewelry I envisioned wasn't like that. It should be coordinated with a free imagination, just like choosing clothes, and it should have a free design. Thinking about the ideal state of jewelry in this way, I wanted to give it more form and let people know about it, which led me to think, 'Let's create a brand.'"
Sano's concept of "the ideal state of jewelry" is, as expected, greatly influenced by her childhood experiences.
"When I was little, there was a particularly elegant woman who used to visit my grandmother's salon. When I thought about what made her so elegant, it was, quite simply, the excellent total balance of her fashion and jewelry. She had many ways to articulate 'why she was wearing this particular piece of jewelry' depending on the season or her outfit, and jewelry was naturally integrated into her lifestyle. Unlike others, she had a free imagination, unbound by convention."
Championing New Possibilities for Men's Jewelry
Sano notes that men's use of jewelry has been changing over the past five years or so, and now is a prime time to make new proposals for jewelry.
"I think there are generational barriers, but generally, people over 40 might still have resistance to overtly sparkling items. This is perhaps a resistance born from how jewelry was worn during the bubble economy, which detracted from its inherent beauty... Consequently, jewelry for them is limited to flat items like cufflinks and pins. People around 30 naturally wear silver rings and bracelets in their daily lives. They are the ones who will naturally reach for jewelry that matches their fashion style. In business settings, due to their position and role, they might still hesitate to wear brightly shining jewelry, but in about five years, as generations shift, I believe we will enter an era where people can enjoy more freedom in their jewelry choices, tailored to TPO."
Furthermore, Sano is paying attention to the increasing sophistication of men's aesthetic sensibilities.
"Just as we feel moved when encountering a beautiful work of art, jewelry can also stir our hearts when we encounter something exquisite. I believe this is a sense that is honed by seeing more and more beautiful things. When we are moved by beauty, our gaze is naturally drawn to it, and we feel a desire to touch it. This is exactly the same as with cars or interiors. Jewelry exists in that same continuum, so I expect men's awareness of it will grow even higher in the future."
From this discussion, one can infer the nature of Sano's own aesthetic judgment. The creation of pieces that consistently prioritize high quality is something AS collection prides itself on.
"I simply love high-quality items. When we talk about high quality, it includes materials, design, and even the attitude towards sales... We strive for excellence in everything we do, and I believe this will definitely resonate with those who appreciate high-quality items."
Nine years have passed since the launch of AS collection. Sano feels that jewelry is gradually becoming more integrated into lifestyles in Japan.
"I want to continue creating initiatives that will further integrate jewelry into Japan. At the same time, I am eager to see how AS collection resonates in a land that is the birthplace of fashion culture and considered a leader in jewelry. We are also beginning our overseas presentations."
Sano's eyes sparkle as she says this. The world of jewelry, where the young Jewelry Producer advocates for enjoying it with a free spirit as part of fashion. In the future, the proposals from AS collection...Men's Jewelry...will completely change the existing concepts – one cannot help but feel this premonition strongly.
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