Watch & Jewelry
January 13, 2015
Hong Kong Luxury Watch Show 2014 | Watches & Wonders 2014
The "Hidden Watch Kingdom" Captivating the World
Hong Kong Luxury Watch Show | Watches & Wonders 2014
Special Report
The conventional wisdom that "you only need to see the two major Swiss watch fairs for new releases" is beginning to change. At the end of September, with less than three months until the 2015 Geneva Salon, a watch fair featuring many of the same exhibiting brands was held in Hong Kong, where numerous new models were unveiled. This report covers the overview and notable pieces.
Text by SHIBUYA Yasuhito
A Must-See for Watch Enthusiasts
The Second Edition of the Asian "S.I.H.H."
From September 29th for four days, the coveted luxury watch show "Watches & Wonders 2014" (hereafter referred to as W&W) was held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai, Hong Kong.
Many industry insiders and enthusiasts may still be unaware of this "W&W." And for good reason: the first event was held in 2013. This is only the second year, and it's not an exhibition targeted at Japanese watch buyers and press.
Invited to this exhibition were watch buyers and general customers from Hong Kong, China, Macau, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Australia – in other words, countries from the Asia-Pacific region. The exhibitors included 13 Maisons, led by Richemont Group's flagship "Cartier," along with "Vacheron Constantin," "A. Lange & Söhne," "Jaeger-LeCoultre," "IWC," "Roger Dubuis," "Piaget," "Van Cleef & Arpels," "Montblanc," "Panerai," "Baume & Mercier," "Audemars Piguet," and "Richard Mille."
Those familiar with watch fairs will understand that, apart from "Ralph Lauren" from the same Richemont Group not exhibiting, it was almost identical to the Geneva Salon. In essence, W&W is the "Asian Geneva Salon."
However, unlike the exclusive Geneva Salon for watch buyers and press, the significant difference is that general customers are invited. This reflects the anticipation of the 13 Maisons for the future growth of the luxury watch market in Asia and their expectations for markets in Asia beyond Japan.
All Maisons Unveiled Their Latest New Models for the First Time
Although Japan is not a target country, watch enthusiasts should pay close attention to W&W because, depending on the brand's emphasis, the latest models from each Maison, which were not even seen at the SIHH held in January 2014, were unveiled to the world for the first time at this exhibition.
Approximately two months remain until the "SIHH (Geneva Salon) 2015" in January 2015. According to industry insiders, many new models will be announced at the Geneva Salon as usual, separate from W&W. This means that each Maison specifically prepared and announced new models for W&W.
This year, there were many models geared towards ladies among the new releases, but all of them are unmissable for watch professionals. In the next section, we will introduce carefully selected notable models by brand.
The "Hidden Watch Kingdom" Captivating the World
Hong Kong Luxury Watch Show | Watches & Wonders 2014
Special Report (2)
13 Notable Models Unveiled for the First Time Worldwide - Part 1
Which of the new models unveiled at the "Watches & Wonders" watch fair in Hong Kong at the end of September are absolute must-sees for watch fans? OPENERS has selected one model from each of the 13 exhibiting brands. Here, we introduce their appealing points.
AUDEMARS PIGUET | Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Offshore
Automatic Chronograph
The Sportiest Tourbillon Model in the Brand's History
Following the model released in 2010, this is the second generation of the Royal Oak Offshore's new tourbillon chronograph. The highlight is the newly developed self-winding tourbillon chronograph movement, "Caliber 2897." The chronograph mechanism is a column-wheel type, pursuing lag-free start, stop, and reset, along with comfortable operation. The automatic winding mechanism employs a peripheral rotor system, where a rotor made of 950 platinum circulates around the outer edge of the movement. Its rotation can be observed from the dial side. The case is made of ultra-light forged carbon, developed and manufactured by Audemars Piguet. It is currently one of the sportiest tourbillon models in the world.
Self-winding, forged carbon case, case diameter 44mm, 100m water resistance, limited to 50 pieces worldwide, price ¥27,324,000. Available now.
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000
http://www.audemarspiguet.com/jp/
BAUME & MERCIER | Baume & Mercier
Clifton
Eight Days Power Reserve
A Limited Long Reserve Model Celebrating the Maison's 185th Anniversary
The "Clifton," a round watch characterized by its classic, refined design and superior craftsmanship that transcends its price point. Following the flying tourbillon model announced at SIHH (Geneva Salon) 2014, a unique limited long reserve model has been introduced to commemorate the Maison's 185th anniversary. The highlight of this model is its hand-wound movement, which can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. Uniquely, it achieves approximately 192 hours of power reserve with a single barrel, rather than the multi-barrel system common in long reserve models. Limited to 185 pieces, commemorating the 185th anniversary, this is a model that will surely captivate watch connoisseurs.
Hand-wound, red gold case, 45mm case size, 5 ATM water resistance, limited to 185 pieces, price not yet determined.
Baume & Mercier
Tel. 03-3288-6335
http://www.baume-et-mercier.jp/
Photo 2000 © Cartier 2014
Cartier | Cartier
Rotonde de Cartier
Second Time Zone Retrograde Watch
A Dual Time & Big Date Model Exuding Elegance
Cartier presented an exceptionally comprehensive exhibition among the 13 participating Maisons, including the world premiere of two new pieces: a skeletonized mechanical watch inspired by the mythical Eastern dragon, and a high jewelry watch. Among its diverse displays, the Big Date & Dual Time model is a must-see for watch enthusiasts. The highlight is the retrograde second time zone display at 10 o'clock. The day/night indicator at 3 o'clock clarifies whether it is day or night. Despite featuring a big date display and a small seconds display, no other model boasts such a refined and understated aesthetic. In addition to this white gold case, models are also available in pink gold and stainless steel.
Self-winding, white gold case, 42mm case size, limited to 200 pieces, price ¥2,948,400.
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757http://www.cartier.jp
IWC | IWC
Portofino Midsize
Automatic Day & Night
A Compact Dual Time Model Recommended for Both Women and Men
IWC is often associated with the image of "large watches for men." However, in Hong Kong, where petite women are actively engaged in various fields, a new series with a compact 37mm case size has been introduced, challenging this image. These include three types of "Portofino Midsize": a model with a moon phase display, a model with a dual time function, and a simple automatic. Depending on the model, cases are available in white gold, red gold, and stainless steel. Some models feature a mother-of-pearl dial that shimmers in seven colors depending on the angle of light, while others are set with diamonds on the bezel. This is the dual time function model, recommended for travel enthusiasts regardless of gender. The blue hand at the center of the dial subtly, elegantly, yet clearly indicates the current time and day/night for the second time zone.
Self-winding, 3 ATM water resistance, red gold case set with 66 diamonds, case diameter 37mm, price ¥2,420,000, scheduled for release this winter.
IWC
0120-05-1868http://www.iwc.com/ja
Jaeger-LeCoultre | Jaeger-LeCoultre
Rendez-vous Ivy Minute Repeater
An Artistic Masterpiece for Women That Announces Time with Beautiful Sound
Jaeger-LeCoultre excels in complex watchmaking. However, with the "Hybris Artistica" new collection announced in 2014, they are aiming for new heights with artistic models that achieve the pinnacle not only in mechanism but also in decoration. This minute repeater model for ladies, unveiled for the first time worldwide at W&W along with the new collection, is precisely such a masterpiece. It is equipped with the new Caliber 942, which features the patented "trébuchet" hammers and crystal gongs developed to pursue beautiful sound, along with a silent regulator. The dial is also adorned with guilloché engraving, enamel techniques, and snow-setting diamonds. It is a masterpiece for women that pursues the pinnacle in both mechanism and decoration.
Self-winding, white gold case set with 548 diamonds (approx. 2.3 carats), 39mm case size, price ¥30,780,000, release date undecided.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
0120-79-1833http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
A.LANGE & SÖHNE | A. Lange & Söhne
LangeMatic Perpetual
The First Black Dial for a Perpetual Calendar Model
A. Lange & Söhne, pursuing its own path to the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking with the traditional style and dedication to handcraftsmanship of Glashütte, Germany. At W&W, alongside new releases such as the "Lange 1 20th Anniversary," celebrating 20 years since its birth, they provided detailed explanations of the Maison's history, showcasing a unique world distinct from Swiss watches. Among the new releases, a hidden gem is this "LangeMatic Perpetual." It marks the first black dial, embodying the aesthetic principles of Lange. The geometric dial design stands out, along with the zero-reset mechanism that returns the seconds hand to zero when the crown is pulled. It's rare to find such a complex watch that so effortlessly draws you in, even if you're not a watch enthusiast.
Self-winding, white gold case, price ¥8,478,000, scheduled for release after December 2014.
A. Lange & Söhne
Tel. 03-3288-6639
http://www.alange-soehne.com
The "Hidden Watch Kingdom" Captivating the World
Hong Kong Luxury Watch Show | Watches & Wonders 2014
Special Report (3)
Notable Models Unveiled for the First Time Worldwide - Part 2
This report highlights the new models unveiled at the "Watches & Wonders" watch fair in Hong Kong at the end of September. In the second part, we continue to introduce fascinating men's and ladies' models that are absolute must-sees for watch fans. Here, we present an overview and their appealing points.
MONTBLANC | Montblanc
Montblanc Metamorphosis II
A Complex Watch That "Transforms"
Montblanc continues to evolve into a more appealing watch brand with its new "Meisterstück Heritage" collection announced in January and the new ladies' watch collection "Bohème" announced in July. In Hong Kong, the "Bohème" collection was prominently displayed, drawing admiring glances from Asian women. Furthermore, the latest version of the astonishing complex watch "Metamorphosis" (announced in 2010), which transforms its dial between two functions – a regular watch and a chronograph – was unveiled for the first time worldwide. While the basic functions remain the same as the previous model, the design has been refined. It remains an unmissable piece, embodying experimentation and dreams more than any other complex watch.
Hand-wound, red gold case, case diameter 52mm, limited to 18 pieces worldwide, estimated price €270,000, release date undecided.
Montblanc Contact Center
0120-39-4810http://www.montblanc.com
OFFICINE PANERAI | Officine Panerai
Radiomir 1940
Three Days Automatic Oro Rosso 45mm
A Slim Model Equipped with a New Automatic Movement
Panerai, which continues to gain fans worldwide while preserving the tradition and basic style of the world's first military diver's watch, developed for the Italian Navy's special underwater forces. At this W&W, Panerai had a major surprise in store for its fans and watch enthusiasts: the announcement of the brand's first off-center rotor, the newly designed slim movement Caliber P.4000, and its搭載 model, the "Radiomir 1940 Three Days Automatic." The wearing experience is surprisingly slimmer and lighter than the hand-wound model using the same Radiomir 1940 case. We highly recommend it to those who have hesitated to purchase a Panerai due to case thickness.
Self-winding, red gold case, case diameter 45mm, 5 ATM water resistance.
Officine Panerai
0120-18-7110http://www.panerai.com/ja/
PIAGET | Piaget
"Piaget Altiplano" 38mm 900P
The World's Thinnest Hand-Wound Model, Inheriting Tradition
The "Piaget Altiplano 900P," which achieves the world's thinnest case thickness of 3.65mm for a hand-wound model through an innovative structure integrating the case and the movement's mainplate. At this W&W, Piaget exhibited this model announced in January, along with a high jewelry version of a complex watch lavishly set with baguette-cut diamonds. They also displayed historical ultra-thin movements starting from the ultra-thin automatic movement Caliber 9P developed in 1957. Furthermore, they demonstrated the assembly of movements and engraving, as well as jewelry setting, by watchmakers and engravers. Piaget strongly emphasized its expertise in ultra-thin movements and gem-set watches, showcasing this model as a culmination of Piaget's appeal.
Hand-wound, pink gold case, 38mm case diameter, daily water resistance, price ¥3,591,000
Piaget Contact Center
0120-73-1874http://www.piaget.jp
RICHARD MILLE | Richard Mille
RM 56-02 Tourbillon Sapphire
The Second Edition of the Ultimate See-Through Model
Richard Mille continues to create exclusive and luxurious sports watches that transcend conventional watchmaking, designed for celebrities. Among these, the legendary "RM 056 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Sapphire," released in 2012, stands out as the ultimate see-through watch, with its case entirely carved from sapphire crystal. At this year's W&W, alongside the signature model for brand ambassador and Hong Kong action star Jackie Chan, the third edition of the ultimate see-through watch, the "RM 56-02 Tourbillon Sapphire," was unveiled. With components like the barrel bridge and center bridge also made of sapphire, enhancing transparency, this model further deepens its legend.
Hand-wound, sapphire crystal case, case size 50.50mm (height) x 42.7mm (width), 30m water resistance, limited to 10 pieces worldwide, estimated price ¥191,000,000.
Richard Mille Japan
Tel. 03-5807-8162
http://www.richardmille.jp
ROGER DUBUIS | Roger Dubuis
Hommage Minute Repeater
Flying Tourbillon Automatic
Pursuing Excellent Sound Through Unique Mechanisms
A "true manufacture brand" that designs, develops, and produces all its mechanical movements in-house. Founded in 1995 by Roger Dubuis, a master watchmaker representing the modern era. At W&W, within a boldly designed exhibition space that dramatically showcased the new Hommage collection, they unveiled this entirely new minute repeater and tourbillon model for the first time in the world. Limited to 20 pieces worldwide, this wristwatch that tells time through sound features a platinum double micro-rotor automatic winding mechanism, a tourbillon, and innovative technologies such as rectangular gongs made of new materials and a silent governor. It is a coveted piece for watch enthusiasts, meticulously pursuing beautiful sound.
Self-winding, rose gold case, case diameter 45mm, limited to 20 pieces worldwide, price not yet determined, availability not yet determined.
Roger Dubuis
Tel. 03-3288-6640
http://www.rogerdubuis.com/jp
Vacheron Constantin | Vacheron Constantin
Métreries Cabinotiers Astronomica
An Ultimate Astronomical Complication Watch Featuring 15 Complications
This prestigious Maison, soon to celebrate its 260th anniversary since Jean-Marc Vacheron, a skilled watchmaker at the age of 24, established his workshop in 1755, presented numerous captivating new pieces at this Hong Kong event, eclipsing other Maisons with their range from complex watches to ladies' and art models. At the pinnacle of these is this supremely complex model, equipped with 15 complications including a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and celestial chart. It is positioned as "the most complicated wristwatch in history" and also as the first model in a new collection from the Maison, offering "unparalleled value in the world." It will undoubtedly become an even more captivating presence for watch fans going forward.
Hand-wound, white gold case, 47mm case diameter, limited to 1 piece worldwide, price and sales period undecided.
Vacheron Constantin
0120-63-1755http://www.vacheron-constantin.com
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Poetic Wish
A Watch for You to "Make a Wish Upon a Star"
Under the concept of "Poetic Complications," Van Cleef & Arpels develops artistic complex watches for enjoying time. At this W&W, they unveiled another original new piece. The dial, which completes a rotation in one year, depicts meteor showers and their names. When the calendar is set, a triangular indicator at 12 o'clock shows the meteor showers occurring during that period. Furthermore, the "Wish Gauge" on the case back displays the average number of shooting stars per hour, indicating the optimal time to make a wish upon a star. It is a truly romantic and dreamlike watch that inspires one to gaze at the stars.
Hand-wound, white gold case, 38mm case diameter, estimated price ¥12,204,000, scheduled for release in June 2015.
Van Cleef & Arpels Le Desk
0120-10-1906http://www.vancleefarpels.com