Patek Philippe | An enduring masterpiece born in 1932, forever etched in the history of the wristwatch

Patek Philippe

Calatrava

A perennial bestseller for over 80 years. Patek Philippe's signature round timepiece reigns as a masterpiece of watchmaking.

Text by KOIZUMI Yoko

An eternal masterpiece in watchmaking history, born in 1932

The Calatrava is said to have been inspired by the Bauhaus movement, an architectural and decorative arts movement that originated in Germany, with the principle that "form follows function." Its design, featuring a round case with three-dimensional indices and Dauphine hands, offers exceptional legibility while exuding an elegant aura. Its timeless design, considered complete from its inception, serves as the paradigm for round watches and is counted among Patek Philippe's most representative works as an eternal classic.

Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has continued to captivate watch enthusiasts as a long-selling series that maintains its core concept to this day. While numerous masterpieces have been created over its more than 80-year history, the "Ref. 5196," introduced in 2004, is arguably the most faithful successor to its original design. The small seconds subdial has been simplified to bar indices at five-second intervals. Although the case size has been increased by 6mm, and the crown size adjusted accordingly, comparing the designs reveals an unwavering adherence to the original aesthetic.

Patek Philippe's enduring status as the world's foremost watchmaker is not solely due to its creation of innovative timepieces. It is also because the aesthetic sensibilities of artisans from various fields, passed down since the company's founding, continue to be reflected in its watches.

The series name "Calatrava" originates from the Order of Calatrava, a military order of knights founded in the 12th century to fight the Moors in the Iberian Peninsula. The cross logo, designed in the motif of the order's cross, has been engraved on the crown of every model, from the first to the current ones.