BVLGARI | Top Creators Discuss the Allure of the "Bulgari Bulgari"
Watch & Jewelry
March 24, 2015

BVLGARI | Top Creators Discuss the Allure of the "Bulgari Bulgari"


Nearly 40 Years Since Its Debut – The "Double Logo" Legend Enters Chapter Two


Insights from Top Creators on the Appeal of "Bulgari Bulgari" (1)



Nearly 40 years since its debut. The "Bulgari Bulgari" watch, a legendary timepiece in the watchmaking world, is now entering a new phase of evolution. What lies at the source of its appeal? For this occasion, coinciding with the exhibition "Bulgari Bulgari" Exhibition, we invited three top creators—Sumi-e artist Shuho Tsuchiya, floral artist Nicolai Bergmann, and graphic artist Shun Kawakami—to share their unique perspectives on its charm.




Photographs by TSUKAHARA TakaakiText by SHIBUYA Yasuhito




Inspired by Ancient Roman Coins, the Double Logo Design Captivated the World



Launched in 1977 as Bulgari's first full-fledged watch collection, the "Bulgari Bulgari". Its daring and innovative design, featuring the brand name "BVLGARI" engraved twice on the bezel, became an instant sensation among celebrities worldwide, astonishing the watch industry. In fact, no other watch at the time so boldly displayed the brand name so prominently.

The motif was inspired by ancient Roman coins, minted by emperors with their own portraits and names, and by the columns of Roman architecture. By engraving the logo on the watch bezel, Bulgari, much like Roman emperors asserting their power, proclaimed the value of its brand and identity to the world.

This style, characteristic of Bulgari's bold integration of Greek and Roman culture into its jewelry as an Italian brand, has been cherished as an enduring classic watch for approximately 40 years since its introduction. Wearing the power of Bulgari—a unique brand that is both powerful and emotional—on your wrist. This sensation has continued to captivate men and women around the globe.



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During the Roman Empire, emperors, wielding immense power, created coins bearing their likeness and name to assert their authority. The emperor was the empire itself, and the currency was its ultimate proof.


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A rare digital watch featuring the "BVLUGARI ROMA" logo on its gold case. Its style, incorporating 1970s trends with a strap made of natural hemp cord, remains fresh and appealing today.




The Roots Lie in a Rare Digital Watch Gifted to Customers at Christmas in 1975



In fact, there are two rare models that serve as the origin of the Bulgari Bulgari watch collection. The first was a digital watch planned as a gift for 100 special customers at Christmas in 1975. It was the peak era for digital watches, a time when the unique digital font and monochrome LCD time display represented the cutting edge.

Engraving the logo on the case, not the dial. The then CEO, Gianni Bulgari, recalled that this idea was sparked by this digital watch. Unlike today, the display on digital watches back then was small, making it impossible to place the brand name on the dial as we do now. Thus, engraving on the case became the solution. This engraving, however, struck customers as novel.

This wristwatch quietly gained popularity, becoming a prelude to the birth of the watch collection.

1976: The Birth of Another Original Model, "BVLGARI ROMA"






The true roots of the Bulgari Bulgari watch, launched in 1977, lie in another original model developed in response to customer feedback and released in a limited edition at the Bulgari Rome boutique in 1976: a simple, hand-wound watch.

It featured a flat, round case inspired by the columns of Roman architecture, a simple dial with bar indices and Roman numerals only at 12 and 6 o'clock, and two hands for hours and minutes.

The basic style of the first model, released in 1977, was already established in this watch. However, it is famously known that the engraving on the bezel was "BVLGARI ROMA," not the double brand logo.


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At the "Bulgari Bulgari" Exhibitionheld in Omotesando, a variety of models were displayed, including the digital model gifted in 1975 (center), the first model from 1977 (right), and a pocket watch from 1989 (left), each reflecting the trends of its era.




To commemorate the launch of the new Bulgari Bulgari watch, this rare original model's logo has been revived this year as a "special limited edition of 250 pieces worldwide. It is an unmissable piece for fans of Bulgari Bulgari.





Nearly 40 Years Since Its Debut – The "Double Logo" Legend Enters Chapter Two


Insights from Top Creators on the Appeal of "Bulgari Bulgari" (2)




The World of Bulgari Through the Eyes of Sumi-e Artist Shuho Tsuchiya



"The history and design of the "Bulgari Bulgari" watchare incredibly fascinating to me as an artist. This watch's journey mirrors my own art, with its "origins and development."

So says Shuho Tsuchiya, one of Japan's most talked-about artists today, who is expanding his exciting activities beyond his roots as a Sumi-e painter.

"There have been various changes and developments since its introduction in 1977, and what is tested in this process is individuality and originality. The watch's design evolves and develops in response to the zeitgeist, dialogue with customers, and their reactions. The question then becomes: what serves as the starting point and how is it constructed? What must not be changed during the development process?"

Tsuchiya, who is involved in design through collaborations with designers and art directors, in addition to his contemporary art and live performance works originating from Sumi-e, has a particular interest in logos.


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The "Bulgari Bulgari" Exhibitionat the "Bulgari Omotesando Twin Shop" also featured displays of vintage advertising visuals that told the story of the brand's history, alongside the watches.


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The "Bulgari Bulgari," which has evolved over time, has seen the release of various models, including perpetual calendars and GMTs.




The Double Logo Conveys Confidence – A Sense of Strength



"With the "Bulgari Bulgari" watch, the starting point and origin is the Roman coin, and the distinctive design feature is the "BVLGARI BVLGARI" double logo. Making the logo itself the face and identity of the product. This bold design is uniquely Italian. This distinctiveness has been maintained for nearly half a century and will continue to be so. This strength is remarkable."

In a sense, it's unparalleled, but it's not just that.Bulgari Bulgari" watchevokes a sense of empathy and respect from me as an artist, Tsuchiya says.

"The 'double logo' conveys a powerful message: 'We are confident in who we are!' At the same time, it's wonderful that the watch's creation was initially inspired by a novelty gift intended to express gratitude to customers. As an artist, I've always stayed true to my own path, regardless of what others say. In my creative process, I constantly feel the urge to do something completely different next."

"However, I also want customers to be happy, so I create while communicating with them. To what extent can I push my own style?"Bulgari Bulgari" watchup to today makes me reconsider these points.



TSUCHIYA Shukou



Shuho Tsuchiya (Sumi-e Artist, Contemporary Artist, Stain Artist)
Born in 1974. Inspired by his uncle, he became interested in Sumi-e painting and joined the Namboku Sumie Kai during high school. Since then, starting with Sumi-e, he has challenged himself in various artistic fields, including contemporary art and Buddhist sculpture. As an artist who transcends boundaries, he is actively engaged in stimulating activities such as participating in commercials and music videos, and collaborating with designers and art directors. He is currently one of Japan's most prominent artists.







Nearly 40 Years Since Its Debut – The "Double Logo" Legend Enters Chapter Two


Insights from Top Creators on the Appeal of "Bulgari Bulgari" (3)




Nicolai Bergmann Feels the Spirit of Rome in Omotesando



Nicolai Bergmann, a rising artist at the forefront of floral design, known for his unique style that blends Scandinavian and Japanese aesthetics, was recently interviewed at the "Bulgari"Bulgari Bulgari" Exhibition" held at the Bulgari Omotesando Twin Shop.

"It's wonderful to see so many Bulgari Bulgari collections together. Feeling the history in this venue, with models ranging from the first to the latest, is truly fascinating."

"My most memorable piece was the original digital model gifted in 1975. I particularly like the hemp cord strap. Among this year's new models, I would choose the limited edition pink gold model, '"Bulgari Roma"'. The color, slightly orange, reminiscent of intense sunlight, evokes a sense of 'Rome.'"

Originally from Denmark, Nicolai entered the world of floral design at the young age of 15. What does a watch represent to him?



The Artistry of "Rome"



"A watch is always a good partner for me. Beyond its function of telling time, it also serves as an item to express my personal style. It transcends being just a fashion accessory; it becomes a part of me."

"Just as one chooses a favorite flower from many varieties, the Bulgari Bulgari offers a wide range of materials and dial designs. It guides the wearer towards happiness. I believe this is a commonality with Bulgari's watchmaking."

Why has the Bulgari Bulgari watch been loved by people worldwide for so long since its debut in 1977? Nicolai discusses the watch's appeal, focusing on the keywords: Bulgari, Rome, and watch.

"I often visit Rome on vacation, and the Bulgari Bulgari truly captures the 'Rome' atmosphere. In fact, until our conversation today, I didn't realize Bulgari's headquarters were in Rome. But the moment I saw this watch, I knew it was unmistakably set in 'Rome.' The way the colors of the materials express the light and temperature shining in the hot summer is masterfully done. The cityscape of Rome, with its ancient ruins scattered throughout, is breathtaking. Ancient Rome and modern Rome. The Bulgari Bulgari is perhaps a timeless watch that allows you to enjoy both."


Nicolai Bergmann



Nicolai Bergmann
Originally from Denmark, he moved to Japan and presented his signature flower box arrangements in 2000. His unique style, blending Scandinavian and Japanese aesthetics, quickly garnered global attention as a floral artist. He has since launched the "Nicolai Bergmann Flowers & Design" brand and engaged in diverse activities. This year, he published his first book, "Nicolai Bergmann: Flowers and Everyday Happiness."








Nearly 40 Years Since Its Debut – The "Double Logo" Legend Enters Chapter Two


Insights from Top Creators on the Appeal of "Bulgari Bulgari" (4)




Shun Kawakami: Born in 1977



"I feel a certain destiny with this watch."

So says Shun Kawakami, representative of "artless Inc.," who continues to create work that transcends genres, exploring the intersection of "design and art." He was born in Tokyo in 1977, the same year the "Bulgari"Bulgari Bulgari" was born.

"Andy Warhol once said, 'Visiting a Bulgari store is like visiting the most magnificent exhibition of contemporary art.' I wholeheartedly agree. Bulgari's aesthetic, pursuing 'eternal beauty,' has consistently employed innovative techniques over time to create art-like items. The 'Bulgari Bulgari' is one such example."

The exhibition, showcasing Bulgari Bulgari models from various eras, offered a glimpse into Bulgari's unique "aesthetic."

"Experiencing the timeline of the Bulgari Bulgari, born and evolving through the ages, is incredibly intriguing. It's akin to exploring the origins of inspiration by imagining the design and its contemporary context, much like the experience I have when viewing art in museums or galleries."




"As someone who wishes to live life like a journey, the limited edition Bulgari Bulgari collection (plastic case x leather strap) released in 1993 in only 33 Bulgari boutiques worldwide deeply resonated with me through its city credits and design."

The history of the "Bulgari Bulgari" watch, spanning nearly 40 years, provided Kawakami with an opportunity to rediscover Bulgari's charm.



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A limited edition "Bulgari Bulgari" collection sold exclusively in 33 Bulgari boutiques worldwide in 1993.






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Shun KAWAKAMI
Art Director / Artist. Born in Tokyo in 1977. Representative of artless Inc. He explores "design as art" at the intersection of art and design, combining Japanese traditional beauty with contemporary sensibilities, classical techniques with technology, and operates globally. He has received numerous awards both domestically and internationally, including "NY ADC: Young Gun 6" and a Gold Lion at the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity. http://www.artless.co.jp/




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