Watch & Jewelry
March 25, 2015
BREGUET | Queens Captivated by Breguet
BREGUET
In Celebration of the Special Exhibition "BREGUET IN THE PALACE"
Keiko Honma, Watch Journalist × Kaori Nakano, Fashion Historian, Discuss Breguet
Abraham-Louis Breguet, the exceptionally gifted watchmaker,Breguetcreated the world's first wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the former Queen of Naples, 200 years ago this year. To commemorate this milestone, we focus on three queens with deep connections to Breguet: Marie Antoinette, Empress Joséphine, and Caroline Murat. We were honored to have watch journalist Keiko Honma and fashion historian Kaori Nakano join us for a special discussion.
Photographs by ABE MasayaText by SHIBUYA Yasuhito
Marie Antoinette, Patron of the Legendary No. 160 Watch
Keiko Honma (hereinafter, Honma)When discussing the achievements of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823), still revered as the greatest watchmaker in history, and Breguet's current collection of ladies' watches, the presence of three queens who were Breguet's clients is absolutely essential: Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), Queen Consort to Louis XVI of France; Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763–1814), the first Empress of Napoleon I of France; and Caroline Murat (1782–1839), Napoleon I's sister and Queen of Naples.
Today, we will delve into their connections with Breguet, with insights from Kaori Nakano, an expert in fashion history, on their personalities, the era they lived in, and their fashion. Thank you for joining us.
Kaori Nakano (hereinafter, Nakano)Thank you for having me.
HonmaBreguet opened its watch workshop on the Île de la Cité in Paris in 1775. Pocket watches were the cutting-edge items of the time, high-end jewelry pieces owned only by royalty and aristocrats.
Among the three queens, the first to become a Breguet client was the tragic queen of the final Bourbon dynasty, Marie Antoinette. Revisiting her portraits and fashion, I was once again struck by how charming she was, perhaps more so than I had previously imagined. What kind of person do you think she was?
Left: Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), the exceptionally gifted watchmaker. This year marks the 200th anniversary of the creation of the world's first wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the former Queen of Naples.
Right: This ledger records all the work for "No. 2639," the world's first wristwatch. However, the whereabouts of the original piece remain unknown.
NakanoMarie Antoinette possessed an abundance of desire, curiosity, and drive. In a word, I would describe her as 'a person of excess in everything.' Her fashion style was the same; her hairstyles, dresses, and lifestyle were all remarkably excessive. She spent lavishly without regard for cost, squandering vast sums on everything.
She would adopt the guise of a simple country maiden at the Petit Trianon and enjoy gardening, but even these pursuits were the height of luxury. Perhaps the simple style was novel to her. In any case, she seemed to detest boredom.
Keiko Honma (left) and Kaori Nakano (right)
BREGUET
In Celebration of the Special Exhibition "BREGUET IN THE PALACE"
Keiko Honma, Watch Journalist × Kaori Nakano, Fashion Historian, Discuss Breguet (Part 2)
A New Trend Born from Curiosity
HonmaMarie Antoinette, with her exceptional fashion sense, also seemed to possess a sophisticated charm that resonates even today. Despite her extravagance, she surprisingly showed little interest in jewelry itself, even though she was caught up in the famous "Affair of the Diamond Necklace." However, she adored watches and was a fervent admirer of Breguet. BreguetAmong her collection, the most famous is the "No. 160 Marie Antoinette," commissioned in 1783 with the words, "I don't care about the cost or time; please create the finest watch for me."
NakanoShe was fascinated by technology and commissioned artisans who frequented the court to create items such as portable mirrors and perfume bottles. Her fondness for watches was likely a result of her boundless curiosity.
Marie Antoinette, Queen of France
Marie Antoinette "Dentelle"
Her order, its subsequent history, and its intricate mechanism all reflect her characteristic excess. It is a legendary timepiece, completed in 1827, long after both she and Breguet had passed away.
With her abundant energy, wealth, and leisure time, coupled with her excessive desires and curiosity, Breguet was likely the only watchmaker capable of meeting her demands at the time. Thanks to Marie Antoinette, Breguet was able to fully develop its talents.
HonmaThe "Marie Antoinette Dentelle," a new, top-of-the-line high jewelry watch being exhibited at this event, is indeed a fitting model to bear her name. Following Marie Antoinette, the next queen to become a Breguet client was Joséphine de Beauharnais, Napoleon's first Empress.high jewelryThe "Marie Antoinette Dentelle," a new, top-of-the-line high jewelry watch being exhibited at this event, is indeed a fitting model to bear her name. Following Marie Antoinette, the next queen to become a Breguet client was Joséphine de Beauharnais, Napoleon's first Empress.
Keiko Honma
NakanoLike Marie Antoinette, she was a woman of strong desires.
HonmaShe harbored a persistent ambition to become Empress and approached Napoleon, ultimately achieving her goal. Speaking of which, it is said that women's dress styles changed dramatically during her era.
NakanoIn the world of fashion, Neoclassicism emerged, influenced by her husband, Emperor Napoleon. In essence, Neoclassicism was a call to return to the classical Greek and Roman eras, the wellspring of Western culture.
Thin dresses that revealed the beautiful lines of the body, reminiscent of sculptures, were highly prized, to the extent that some women reportedly froze to death. The cashmere shawls Napoleon brought back from his expeditions also became immensely popular around this time. Hairstyles also shifted towards a more natural look.
HonmaUnlike Marie Antoinette, Joséphine was fond of jewelry, particularly tiaras, and commissioned an extensive collection from jewelers. Napoleon also gifted her a vast number of jewels.
However, it was common practice at the time for rulers to bestow items they had used upon their subordinates, so it is unlikely that she personally used all of them. She, too, was a client and admirer of Breguet, much like her husband Napoleon.
NakanoAnd the representative piece she ordered is this watch, with its beautiful blue enamel, allowing one to tell the time by touch.
Kaori Nakano
Empress Joséphine
HonmaThis is a wristwatch called "Montre à tact No. 611," purchased by Joséphine from Breguet in 1800. The diamonds at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions are enlarged, allowing one to ascertain the approximate time by feeling the position of the hand.
NakanoA single hand, rather than two, was sufficient at the time. In aristocratic circles then, punctuality was not considered a virtue. Come to think of it, the mantel clock depicted in Riyoko Ikeda's masterpiece manga "The Rose of Versailles" also featured a single hand.
HonmaThis watch was later gifted to her daughter, Queen Hortense de Beauharnais of Holland. The diamond decoration featuring her initial 'H' crowned was added, and the diamonds were replaced with larger ones, resulting in its current form.
She, too, was a great queen who supported Breguet's creations, though not in vast numbers.
Montre à tact No. 611 (Front)
Montre à tact No. 611 (Back)
Montre à tact No. 611 (Inside)
BREGUET
In Celebration of the Special Exhibition "BREGUET IN THE PALACE"
Keiko Honma, Watch Journalist × Kaori Nakano, Fashion Historian, Discuss Breguet (Part 3)
Caroline Murat, the Queen Who Loved Breguet Watches More Than Anyone
HonmaAnd finally, we come to Caroline Murat, Napoleon's sister, who later became Queen of Naples.
NakanoLike the previous two queens, she possessed strong desires and a keen curiosity, determined to obtain whatever she wished for.
Caroline Murat
Queen of Naples 8908
HonmaShe was one of Breguet's greatest patrons, and according to records from the time, she commissioned an astonishing 34 watches from Breguet.BreguetShe was one of Breguet's greatest patrons, and according to records from the time, she commissioned an astonishing 34 watches from Breguet.
NakanoOne of these is said to be the prototype for today's ladies' models and the "world's first wristwatch."
HonmaYes. It is the model that inspired the "Queen of Naples," an oval-cased watch celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, 2012. This watch was developed based on records from 1810, when she commissioned "No. 2639, an oval repeater watch to be attached to a bracelet" upon becoming Queen of Naples.
Records indicate that she requested "an oval case" when placing the order. Unfortunately, this model is currently unaccounted for. However, detailed records from 1849, created when a countess residing in Paris had it serviced, served as the basis for its development.
These specifications describe it as a "very thin repeater watch, silver dial, Arabic numerals, thermometer, first slow indicator off-center on the dial, the watch mounted on a bracelet made of braided hair and fine gold threads, with a spare gold woven bracelet."
NakanoThe latest "Queen of Naples 8908" is a recreation of this watch's image, isn't it?
Breguet: A Watch for Those Who Seek the Utmost Without Compromise, Believing in Human Potential
HonmaLooking back at the connections between these three queens and Breguet, their intimate relationship is truly astonishing. They were, in a sense, the "First Ladies" of their time and absolute trendsetters in high society. Why were they so captivated by Breguet? What are your thoughts, Ms. Nakano?
NakanoThe common thread among the three queens was their fidelity to their own desires, their refusal to acknowledge limits, and their constant pursuit of the finest things. And perhaps, at that time, only Breguet was the watchmaker capable of fulfilling their demands.
In collaboration with master artisans of cameo carving, a traditional craft of Naples, the birthplace of the "Queen of Naples" collection, Breguet offers a lineup of watches and jewelry adorned with artistic cameo work.
The custom-made "Queen of Naples Camea," a unique piece unveiled for this event.
It could be said that their boundless desires—their refusal to accept limitations—were what nurtured the great Breguet.
HonmaClients with demanding tastes, who sought romance in craftsmanship and glimpsed the future, and artisans who responded by fully showcasing their skills. They and Breguet undoubtedly shared a fortunate relationship.
NakanoFundamentally, human potential knows no limits, especially in the realm of art. Yet, the modern era is one where we first consider limitations and then plan our lives in reverse. Breguet, I believe, transcends such temporal constraints even today.
HonmaMen often say that a watch is a "lifelong companion," but Breguet watches, both past and present, transcend a single lifetime.
NakanoThey are watches that transcend a lifetime, watches that transcend time itself.
"BREGUET IN THE PALACE - THREE QUEENS LOVED BREGUET"Also Held at Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi
Dates: November 14 (Wed) - November 20 (Tue)
Hours: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Venue: Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, Main Building 1F, Central Hall
1-4-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Cameo Artisan Demonstration Also Held
Date: November 14 (Wed)
Hours: 11:00 AM - 5:00 PM
An artisan visiting from Italy will demonstrate the carving techniques used for the cameos on the dials and jewelry of the "Queen of Naples Camea."
■ Inquiries Regarding the Event
Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store
Tel. 03-3241-3311 (Main Operator)
■ Inquiries Regarding the Brand
Breguet Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-6254-7211
This event, supervised by Montres Breguet SA in Switzerland, features indoor displays and a terrace designed to evoke a palace garden, taking advantage of the venue's stunning Ginza views. The entire floor is transformed into a palace.
HOMMA Keiko
Jewelry & Watch Specialist Journalist. After working as a designer, she became a fashion editor for a jewelry trade magazine. She now works as a freelancer, reporting on the latest trends both domestically and internationally.
NAKANO Kaori
Essayist / Fashion Historian / Specially Appointed Professor at Meiji University. Born in 1962. Graduated from the University of Tokyo with degrees in Literature and Liberal Arts. Completed doctoral course credits at the University of Tokyo's Graduate School of Arts and Sciences. After serving as a visiting researcher at the University of Cambridge, she began her career as a writer. Her books include "Mode to Eros to Shihan" (Shueisha Shinsho), "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Men" (Shinchosha), and "Mode to be Loved" (Chuo Koron Shinsha), among many others.