The enamel dials of Donzé Cadran are one of our strengths | ULYSSE NARDIN
Watch & Jewelry
December 22, 2016

The enamel dials of Donzé Cadran are one of our strengths | ULYSSE NARDIN


ULYSSE NARDIN


Interview with Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrick Hoffmann.


THE HOUR GLASS JAPAN 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
On the Creation of the "Classico Manufacture" (1)


Ulysse Nardin has created a special limited edition model to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the founding of "The Hour Glass Ginza," a luxury watch specialty store in Ginza, Tokyo. This model is none other than the realization of a request from Mr. Atsushi Momoi, Representative of The Hour Glass Japan. This article asks CEO Hoffmann about the background to the creation of this special limited edition model and the future of Ulysse Nardin. What is the brand philosophy of Ulysse Nardin? We hope to shed some light on this through this interview.

Photographs by ENDO HiroshiText by TSUCHIDA Takashi(OPENERS)




The Brand's Bloodline: Delivering Only the Authentic to Our Users





"This is the special limited edition model."

Held in CEO Hoffmann's hand, it gently reflected the glittering interior light of The Hour Glass Ginza, exuding an impression of pure white, simple, and noble. "Classico Manufacture Limited Edition." This is the pinnacle of classical watches, with only 20 pieces existing in the world.


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The model in question, featuring a Grand Feu enamel dial and a silicium hairspring & escapement, is an item that fuses the "new" and the "old," characterized by a dial made with traditional craftsmanship and a high-tech material timing mechanism. While based on a popular model, Mr. Momoi added further requests, and here we insert a glossary of terms.

Grand Feu refers to an enamel dial fired at high temperatures. Grand Feu dials, once considered synonymous with luxury watch dials, are less prone to discoloration from aging compared to metal dials, which is why they are considered premium. Meanwhile, silicium hairsprings have increasingly been adopted in high-end models since silicium sheets allowed for the precise cutting of hairspring shapes through ion etching. Unlike metal springs, they do not require lubricating oil, reducing the frequency of maintenance. Ulysse Nardin is also an innovator in using this silicium material for watch movement parts.

Now, let's conclude the glossary and move on. President Momoi specifically requested the following four points: the shape of the hands, the color of the hands, the color of the indices, and the credit.

• Hand shape: Changed from leaf hands to Breguet hands.
• Hand color: Changed from blued steel to black.
• Index color: Changed Roman numeral indices from blue to black.
• Credit: The inscription "Donzé" is displayed for the first time on the outer circumference of the dial at the 6 o'clock position.

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This enhances the classical feel and sharpens the appearance by using a monochrome palette primarily in black. This is likely President Momoi's intention. The original model is also superb. However, this limited edition model for The Hour Glass further refines the Ulysse Nardin essence while also possessing a modern coolness.

Furthermore, adding the "Donzé" inscription is a masterstroke that appeals directly to watch connoisseurs. Donzé Cadran is the name of a dial manufacturing workshop that has excelled in enamel dials perhaps more than any other in the world. Ulysse Nardin has had a close relationship with this workshop for some time, and in 2011, brought the workshop under the brand's umbrella. In that sense, there is no longer a need to explicitly mention the Donzé name. However, for those who know of this workshop's brilliant achievements, the inscription brings a special sense of joy.

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"When creating store-exclusive models, the potential issue is receiving requests that dilute the brand's DNA. However, President Momoi is very experienced, and it seems The Hour Glass's customers also have a good understanding of our brand's history," says CEO Hoffmann.



Recently, the demand for special edition models has been increasing. It is understandable that rarity, with only a limited number of pieces existing, is perceived as a mark of luxury. While acknowledging that they cannot focus solely on such special models, CEO Hoffmann states, "We want to accommodate them as much as possible." Conversely, the ability to handle small-lot limited edition models with agility is a strength of a manufacture. It also indicates a harmonious relationship with the production site.

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Ulysse Nardin "Classico Manufacture" Limited Edition
Reference | 3203-136LE/EO-J
Limited Edition | 20 pieces (Available only at The Hour Glass Ginza)
Power Reserve | Approx. 48 hours
Winding | Automatic
Case | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 40mm
Water Resistance | 30m (Everyday water resistance)
Case Back | Screw-down open case back
Strap | Black alligator
Price | ¥1,100,000 (excluding tax)



Page02.The Irresistible Charm of Ulysse Nardin, as Told by the CEO Himself




ULYSSE NARDIN


Interview with Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrick Hoffmann.


THE HOUR GLASS JAPAN 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
On the Creation of the "Classico Manufacture" (2)



The Irresistible Charm of Ulysse Nardin, as Told by the CEO Himself


Patrick Hoffmann became CEO of Ulysse Nardin in 2011. Subsequently, he brought the brand under the umbrella of the French capital group Kering, solidifying its corporate foundation and establishing a robust manufacturing system. As a result, the brand has regained its current unshakeable position without being influenced by major suppliers.

"What the Swiss watch industry must be careful about in the future is not diluting the brand's message. It is counterproductive if the message itself becomes difficult to convey by reaching out in too many directions," says CEO Hoffmann.

In this regard, the story told by the Ulysse Nardin brand is entirely authentic and grounded. For example, the limited edition model for the America's Cup, recently announced, was born out of its relationship with Artemis Racing. This is precisely because the Ulysse Nardin brand has always had a strong connection with the marine genre.

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Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing
Reference | 353-98LE-3/ARTEMIS
Limited Edition | 250 pieces
Power Reserve | Approx. 42 hours
Winding | Automatic
Case | Stainless steel with blue rubber coating
Case Diameter | 45.8 mm
Strap | Blue rubber
Water Resistance | 200m
Price | ¥1,310,000 (estimated, excluding tax)



"Another reason Ulysse Nardin focuses on traditional techniques, such as Grand Feu dials, is that they are an integral part of the brand's history. Ulysse Nardin revived the cloisonné technique 35 years ago. This is to ensure that the craftsmanship that Switzerland is proud of does not disappear," says CEO Hoffmann.

This stance has not changed even after becoming part of the Kering Group. Rather, for the Kering Group, which emphasizes sustainable business development, Ulysse Nardin's commitment to preserving traditional techniques perfectly aligns with the group's philosophy.

Next, this is the final question. What is the brand's vision according to CEO Hoffmann?

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"I believe that continuity is important in all things. Conveying the essence of the brand and communicating our strengths as a message. Continuing to create dials that return to tradition, like those from the Donzé Cadran workshop, is one of the brand's strengths," says CEO Hoffmann.

Watches are machines. The most intricate machines that humans can see with the naked eye and assemble by hand... As CEO Hoffmann began to speak, his expression seemed to return to that of a child. A person who loves watches, loves and understands the brand's philosophy, and leads it. That happy relationship should be evident from the CEO's expression.

Contact


Sowind Japan


Tel.03-5211-1791


http://www.sowind-japan.jp/un/