Watch & Jewelry
September 28, 2016
Feature | Exploring the Timelessness and Universality of Patek Philippe | PATEK PHILIPPE
PATEK PHILIPPE
To Create the World's Finest Watch
Feature: Exploring the Timelessness and Universality of Patek Philippe (Part 1)
PATEK PHILIPPE has long been the object of admiration for watch enthusiasts worldwide. One reason for this is their commitment, from their founding in 1839 to the present day, to servicing and restoring every watch they have ever produced. Another is the inheritance of design. Let us revisit Patek Philippe's unwavering corporate philosophy and its enduring designs.
Text by KOIZUMI Yoko
Servicing and Restoring All Products Since Inception
In Geneva, Switzerland, stands the Patek Philippe Museum, operated by the company. It houses a vast collection that offers a comprehensive overview of watchmaking history, not just Patek Philippe's own creations, making it a coveted treasure for enthusiasts.
Among its collection is the "Client Ledger." This ledger meticulously records detailed data for every watch produced since the company's founding, including customer names, year of sale, material costs, responsible personnel, and prices. Among these entries, one can find the names of royalty from various European nations, including Queen Victoria.
What is truly astonishing about this ledger is not the names recorded within it, but the fact that data of this nature continues to be accumulated to this day. It is precisely because of this data that Patek Philippe owners retain the "right" to after-sales service for as long as their watches exist. The company bears the obligation for this and continues to fulfill this responsibility.
While many watchmakers proclaim themselves as manufactures (fully integrated production), no other manufacturer promises perpetual repair and restoration. The watches produced by Patek Philippe are not only of the highest caliber, but their after-sales service is also unparalleled.
Inheriting Timeless Design
Patek Philippe began producing wristwatches in the 1910s. Initially, case designs included tonneau, rectangular, and cushion shapes. Then, in 1932, a masterpiece emerged: the "Calatrava," created with a design philosophy rooted in the principles of the German Bauhaus movement for architecture and decorative arts.
The round case, which can be considered the fundamental form of a watch, combined with sharp, powerful Dauphine hands and three-dimensional applied indices on the dial, exudes an elegant atmosphere while ensuring high legibility. This not only set the standard for subsequent round dress watches but also allowed Patek Philippe to create an "eternal classic." The Calatrava, "already complete at its birth," continues to reign as a long-seller over 80 years later.
However, the Calatrava is not the sole embodiment of design timelessness. The "Chronograph" and "World Time" models, for instance, share this characteristic. The Chronograph, still in production today, was introduced in 1946, and the World Time in 1940. While minor changes have been made, it is evident that the fundamental designs remain consistent when compared to current models.
Page 02.To Create the World's Finest Watch
PATEK PHILIPPE
To Create the World's Finest Watch
Feature: Exploring the Timelessness and Universality of Patek Philippe (Part 2)
To Create the World's Finest Watch
On the other hand, some models carry forward an unchanging aesthetic by sublimating past designs and encapsulating their essence.—These include the "Twenty~4®" and the new "Calatrava 7122/200" added to the Calatrava line.®line.
Both feature original and innovative designs. Museum pieces also demonstrate that Patek Philippe continues to be a watchmaker capable of creating originality.
For example, the "Gondolo," a special model created in 1925 for the luxury watch and jewelry store Gondolo & Labouriau in Brazil, still exhibits exceptional design appeal today. Its slightly elongated, substantial, and elegant case form is a masterpiece of early 20th-century watch design and, like the Calatrava, influenced contemporary timepieces.
The Inv. P-1322 (yellow gold, left photo) introduced in 1925 was followed by the platinum case Ref. 5098 in 2007 and the rose gold Ref. 5098 in 2009, both met with enthusiastic acclaim from watch collectors.
The commonality among these three models is their ability to embody the highest elegance suited to their respective eras while possessing an enduring beauty that transcends time. Incidentally, the Twenty~4® series was introduced in 1999, and the Calatrava 7122/200 is a model from this year.®Do you perceive any sense of age or newness in these models?
The statement "a design that was already complete at its debut" does not apply solely to the Calatrava. This holds true for the Chronograph and World Time as well. Furthermore, you can appreciate the high design caliber evident in the ladies' models and new releases.
Patek Philippe's founding motto: "To create the world's finest watch."—To uphold this motto, they have crafted the world's finest watches and provided the best after-sales service to ensure customers can use them in optimal condition. By continuing this approach, they have created the "unchanging essence of Patek Philippe." What Patek Philippe inherits is not merely the product itself, but something far greater.
Calatrava
Ref. 5196
Case | 18K yellow gold, 18K rose gold, 18K white gold, 18K platinum
Dial | Silver, gold indices
Diameter | 37mm
Thickness | 6.8mm
Movement | Caliber 215 PS manual-winding movement
Power Reserve | Approx. 44 hours
Strap | Alligator strap
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | 18K yellow gold ¥2,260,000, 18K rose gold ¥2,470,000, 18K white gold ¥2,470,000, 18K platinum ¥4,160,000 (all prices excluding tax)
Twenty~4®®
Ref. 4910/10A
Case | Stainless steel case set with 36 diamonds (approx. 0.45 carats)
Dial | "Perfect Blue" color, gold indices
Size | 25 x 30mm
Movement | Caliber E15 quartz movement
Bracelet | Stainless steel
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥1,370,000 (excluding tax)
Chronograph
Ref. 5170
Case | 18K white gold, sapphire crystal case back
Diameter | 39.4mm
Thickness | 10.9mm
Movement | Caliber CH 29-535 PS manual-winding movement
Power Reserve | Approx. 65 hours
Functions | Chronograph, center chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, small seconds
Strap | Alligator strap with a folding clasp matching the case material
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥9,110,000 (excluding tax)
World Time
Ref. 5230
Case | 18K rose gold, sapphire crystal case back
Diameter | 38.5mm
Thickness | 10.23mm
Movement | Caliber 240 HU self-winding movement
Power Reserve | Approx. 48 hours
Functions | 24 time zones, 24-hour display
Strap | Alligator strap with a folding clasp featuring the Calatrava cross, matching the case material
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥5,350,000 (excluding tax)














