Three Types with a Classic Seiko Expression

The new Presage line from Seiko, shedding its previous dressy image for a sporty and sharp design, has been released. The lineup includes a model with a date display added to the three hands, a model with a multi-hand display for date, day of the week, and power reserve, and a chronograph. The simplest three-hand model is priced at ¥100,000 (excluding tax).

Cost Performance is the Pride of Japanese Manufacturing

Tomoyuki Tanaka (hereinafter Tanaka)I'm basically a Seiko fan, so I was very intrigued when I saw the initial reports from Basel. What is the intention behind focusing on mechanical watches now and globally expanding the Presage brand?



Kōetsu Hiraoka (hereinafter Hiraoka)Seiko is a company that has been around for 135 years, and we've been making watches for over 100. Our technology and passion have accumulated and continue to deepen. Especially now, as most items that were once mechanical, decorative, or daily necessities have become electronic or digital, watches are one of the few products that house a mechanism in our everyday lives. Therefore, we believe that the romance and the passion of the craftspeople embedded in the products can be conveyed to the users, fostering a sense of attachment, which is why we are focusing on re-proposing mechanical watches.

The "Seiko Presage" brand is just beginning to be recognized as an entry-level line for mechanical watches. It was originally a domestic brand, but with the aim of global communication, we have redefined the brand concept into a simpler form with these new models.

TanakaI immediately liked this watch when I held it. Could you tell me again about the differences and selling points between Swiss mechanical watches and Seiko's mechanical watches?

HiraokaUnlike the trend among Swiss watch brands, which have been consolidating and sharing advanced technologies to create new watches across multiple brands, our design philosophy has been evolving for over half a century and is still embedded in our products. We aim to continue creating products with the same philosophy in the future.



TanakaSo, Presage can also be considered an entry-level model. I believe one of the selling points of Japanese products is their cost performance. Ultimately, it means a good balance of price and quality, not just being cheap, but offering high quality.

Japanese cars are also evaluated this way. Compared to American and European cars, Japanese manufacturers are recognized worldwide for their good quality relative to their price.

I think this applies to mechanical watches as well. When I'm interviewed by magazines after new Basel releases and asked to pick my favorite new models, I always choose Japanese products. As a result, it always ends up being a Seiko model (laughs).




HiraokaWe also value how to make the intangible passion tangible and perceptible, not just improving specs. So, I'm very happy to receive such feedback.

There's a saying about "passion." When planning mechanical watches, we believe their value is determined by how well we can embody our own "passion" into a tangible form, which is experienced through touch and operation. To make someone forgo other "wants" or "desires" to purchase a watch, it's crucial that they feel that "passion." We always keep this in mind.

Page02.Presage: A Watch to Inherit Value

Presage: A Watch to Inherit Value

TanakaI like vintage clothing and old watches. For example, things that have been used for a long time, like old jeans, or things made with time and care, have an aura.

I loved the feel of this Presage the moment I held it. The thickness, weight, the sharpness of the edges, and the finishing of the case all exude quality. It possesses a quality comparable to high-end foreign brands, yet it can be purchased for around ¥100,000. I wondered if there wasn't a better way to communicate this level of quality at this price point.

HiraokaWe've been striving to convey our passion, but perhaps we're still not there yet. We will do our best to meet your expectations (laughs).

For us, Grand Seiko is the pinnacle in all aspects. What sets it apart from other watches are the materials, the number and experience of the people involved, and the after-sales service.

While previous models had a strong dressy element, the new models incorporate sportiness with a standard, timeless design, aiming to be a watch that one can feel proud of owning even after 10 years.

Using a polishing technique called "Zaratsu polishing," we create sharp, distortion-free case surfaces. By extensively using hairline finishes, we suppress shine, achieving a subtle beauty that is easy to wear daily. Like the Prius example, we've incorporated the desire to create a watch that fits into everyday life and to turn cost performance into an attractive feature.

TanakaHowever, I feel that positioning it as an entry-level model is a bit of a missed opportunity. I also like cars, and in the automotive world, there's the Porsche Carrera, a model everyone aspires to, and then there's the Boxster as an entry model. The difference is apparent in both price and performance. Yet, there are people who simply love the Boxster. They choose it not as a starting point, but because they are drawn to the Boxster's charm.

I hope that Presage, while being an entry model, will also attract many users who specifically want this watch. It might be too much praise, but ¥100,000 is too inexpensive. It's the same with Grand Seiko; I've been trying to catch up for decades, but I wonder why such a remarkable watch isn't worn by more people on the street.

I've always recommended Seiko watches, hoping they would gain more attention alongside foreign brands, but I still feel their quality isn't widely recognized. They are such good products. In that sense, I hope this model becomes not just an entry point, but an opportunity for people to discover the excellence of Seiko. With this lineup, it seems possible to appeal to people with various tastes.

HiraokaWe've created three types in the lineup, hoping to appeal to a wide range of users, from their late twenties to their forties. As a product planner, my primary hope is that people first experience the model with a simple three-hand display and date. It's not quite "plain white rice," but it embodies the pure charm of Presage. Despite its simplicity, the meticulously crafted case and the easily recognizable time display showcase the inherent functional beauty of a wristwatch.

On the other hand, we've added multi-hand models to more appealingly and clearly convey the romance unique to mechanical watches. These models allow you to easily appreciate the intricate details of mechanical watchmaking. By combining a detailed appearance with practical date and day-of-the-week displays, along with a power reserve indicator, we aimed to resonate with those who aspire to own a mechanical watch.

With the addition of the chronograph, we've created a lineup that anyone seeking a long-lasting mechanical watch can find desirable. Releasing only white and black dials was also a result of pursuing a design that would be satisfying even after 10 years.

Page03.Presage: A Watch to Inherit Value

Presage: A Watch to Inherit Value

TanakaThese new models have a different feel from previous Presage watches. I sense a mechanical watch-like, masculine quality. Perhaps it's because I like vintage watches, but if these models were grouped under a codename or model number, their appeal would be even more pronounced, and easier for users to grasp. I believe that's how brand aspiration is born.

In the music world, Blue Note records have numbers like 1500 or 3000 series, which simply indicate the year of release. Yet, there are people who understand the coolness associated with these numbers, further enhancing the value of those records. I think the same can be said for watches.

HiraokaWe hadn't considered grouping just these models separately, but it's an idea worth exploring (laughs).

While other Presage models feature dials in colors other than white and black, these new models were created with the aim of distilling and embodying the appeal of Seiko's mechanical watches. We believe they have turned out to be well-balanced designs. We aim to balance aesthetic beauty with practicality. Enhancing practical quality like legibility is a given, but we also seek a beauty that resonates with the Japanese sensibility, something that touches the heart. This is achieved through subtraction, leaving only the core essence. It's a minimalist aesthetic.

TanakaSpeaking of faces, I personally like the simple three-hand model the most. I'm not particularly fond of power reserve indicators (laughs).

HiraokaThe designer in charge of Presage always says that the face is paramount. If there's an area where the value of Seiko's products isn't fully recognized, it might be because we tend to focus solely on the physical appeal, failing to adequately convey the background of the creators and the history behind them.

TanakaSince I like vintage items, I often hear about old Rolexes selling for tens of millions of yen at overseas auctions. Seiko also has a history, so I believe there was an opportunity to create a similar vintage market. I own some old Seiko watches myself, and there are many models from the past that I find appealing. Unfortunately, they don't have the same popularity as vintage Rolexes.

HiraokaActually, I brought along the first automatic model from 1956. This year also marks the 60th anniversary of Seiko's start in automatic mechanical watchmaking. This watch was created within the context of "historical fine watches." While the mechanism is substantial, the design aimed for a slim appearance, using curved dials and crystals, techniques not commonly employed today, to achieve that visual effect.

Watches are one of those things you can't throw away, even if you rarely use them. Unlike digital products, there's a sense of reliability that they can be used again after servicing. The romance of potentially increasing in value in the vintage market is one of the appeals of mechanical watches.

In some cases, you might want to pass it down to your children or even grandchildren. I believe watches are capable of such grand narratives. We aim for Presage, not just Grand Seiko, to be a watch that grows in value and satisfaction even after purchase.

TanakaThat is precisely the value unique to mechanical watches. Compared to foreign brands, Seiko might have weaker brand power in terms of legacy and inheritance.

HiraokaAs you pointed out, from a durability standpoint, stainless steel has its advantages, and we are aware that those who are knowledgeable about watches tend to prefer solid case backs. However, in this watch's case, we adopted a see-through back with the intention of allowing more people to appreciate the charm and fascination of mechanical watches, and to convey the intricacy and beauty of the mechanical movement by allowing them to see it in action. In that sense, we view the see-through back as a tool for experiencing the enjoyment of the mechanism.

The movement visible through the case back is equipped with "Trimatic," a mechanism featuring three technologies independently developed by Seiko: the "Magic Lever," "SPRON," and "Diashock." These technologies are condensed to make mechanical watches user-friendly for daily wear, ensure stable accuracy, and allow for long-term enjoyment.

The "Magic Lever" is a lever with two pawls facing in opposite directions, which efficiently winds the mainspring regardless of the rotor's rotation direction. "SPRON" is a proprietary spring material developed by Seiko, offering excellent durability, corrosion resistance, magnetic resistance, and heat resistance. "Diashock" is a unique shock-absorption system developed and manufactured to improve shock resistance, protecting delicate parts like the balance staff from impact.

Unfortunately, these cannot be confirmed through the case back, but we hope you will feel the romance when you see the movement.

TanakaOf course, the mechanism itself is appealing. However, the see-through back alone doesn't fully convey that charm. I wish they would add text like "Trimatic" on the dial or case back. I believe this would further enhance the desire to own this watch. I want them to bring out the watch's appeal even more. I hope this new Presage grows to establish its brand presence.

In my view, the most important thing about a watch is how it feels in your hand. I encourage readers to hold it themselves and discover the charm of Presage.





Tomoyuki Tanaka (FPM)
A globally active producer and DJ. He also performs as the solo project "FPM." In addition to his DJ activities, he has composed music for the dance music clocks "UNIQLOCK" and "UNIQLO CALENDAR," which won Grand Prix awards at the world's three major advertising festivals, showcasing his versatility. He possesses a deep knowledge of classic cars and watches.