When the "Gibier Oden" first appeared at Hoshinoya Karuizawa's Japanese restaurant Kasuke several winters ago, I was immediately intrigued, thinking, "Oh, I'd love to try that someday." HOSHINO RESORTS facilities excel at creating edgy, almost audacious concepts that make you want to exclaim, "Are you serious?!" And this time, it's gibier oden. I thought, 'So that's the direction they're taking.'

Chef Yoshihiro Ishii explains the development of gibier oden at Hoshinoya Karuizawa:

"Gibier, such as deer and wild boar, is part of Shinshu's food culture. We explored various combinations of gibier to see how we could offer 'Shinshu Gibier' at Hoshinoya Karuizawa."

It was then that they conceived of "oden," a dish where simmering can condense the flavors.

Driven by a desire to offer something unique and to provide new discoveries, the "Gibier Oden" made its grand debut. It has since become a staple on the menu at Hoshinoya Karuizawa after the hunting season opens in November each year. And this season, they're offering it at a "Gibier Oden Teahouse"!!! ...Well, I understand what "Gibier Oden Teahouse" means, but... what exactly is it?

Moreover, a chef is stationed at the counter, preparing and serving the dishes right before the guests' eyes—in essence, a "chef's table," isn't it!

"We offer a course-style oden exclusively for one group per day, in a private, fully-rented space," says Chef Ishii.

I recall the blissful, almost illicit joy of buying oden for a late-night snack from a convenience store when I lived at my parents' home. This "luxe oden," which far surpasses the imagination of a commoner like myself, what could it possibly be?! Has oden evolved this much? I have no choice but to try it. This is the moment; the time has come!

While "Gibier Oden" existed before Chef Ishii took the helm at Hoshinoya Karuizawa, this season's presentation and dishes have been enhanced with Chef Ishii's original flair.

As expected (it's that kind of plan), the private space, prepared just for us, is thrilling. This is a little-known private room at Hoshinoya Karuizawa, usually set up for banquets. We take our seats at the counter, facing the chef. This level of exclusivity is rare. This is the flagship location of the HOSHINO RESORTS brand. With the right company, this would be an incredibly romantic setting.

As gentle steam created an atmosphere of bliss, the course began with "Kijizake" (pheasant sake). Kijizake was once specially served as a celebratory sake during New Year's imperial ceremonies. It involves dipping grilled pheasant meat, lightly seasoned with salt, into warm sake. It's quite a rustic preparation, but the warm sake, infused with the clean fat of the pheasant, is undeniably delicious. The imperial court certainly had elegant tastes. The sake used is "Souhana," the official sake of the Imperial Household Agency. It feels auspicious.

Next, the oden broth was served. Chef Ishii's oden broth is, surprisingly, consommé-based. "I've adopted a broth-making method taught to me by a ramen shop owner," says Ishii. "I believe this consommé method is the most delicious!" He finishes the carefully prepared consommé with kaseki-bushi (dried and shaved deer meat). Upon tasting it, I was struck by its unexpected elegance. It possessed a clarity that felt purifying, yet its flavor profile was reminiscent of a Pinot Noir from Burgundy (a personal impression). As I took deep breaths to fully absorb the aroma, Chef Ishii shared another delightful piece of information.

"We'll be simmering various gibier and vegetables in this, so the broth will evolve into a different flavor by the end!"

The delicate wildness of the "Tomato and Pheasant Casserole," prepared in that exceptional broth, was remarkable! It was surprising and, of course, deliciously amusing. Considering the cascade of exquisite dishes that would follow (and indeed, they did...), I found myself slightly intimidated by this overwhelmingly blissful situation (laughs).

What followed was a dazzling exhibition of gibier. Under Chef Ishii's skillful preparation, highlighting the unique flavors of each ingredient, the oden items, bathed in the broth, were presented before us. Their alluring appearance seemed to whisper, "Come, savor my deliciousness!"

For example, the deer loin is seared with charcoal and straw, marinated in homemade soy-koji, and then slow-cooked for about an hour. It's then presented to the guest, seared directly with charcoal in front of them. The deer meat, infused with the aroma of straw, possessed a robust yet seductive presence. I felt reluctant to swallow it, wanting to chew it forever (laughs). After numerous chews, I finally let it go down. At that moment, I felt a sense of vitality flow through my body. Perhaps this is what it means to receive life. I pondered this, my head already slightly tipsy.

When I expressed my surprise at the "Quail Egg and Quail Meat with Charred Scallion," saying, "I've never seen a dish like this before," Chef Ishii replied, "I haven't seen anyone else do it either (laughs)." ...I see. The quail, simmered for two days, was enveloped in the smoky broth, transforming its wildness into elegance. The egg, he explained, was "inspired by smoked eggs." I understood (laughs).

The rabbit, lightly seared, was served on skewers with carrots. "I tried to make it a bit charming (laughs)," said Chef Ishii. As you've likely gathered, the conversations with the chef at the counter—casual yet intellectually stimulating—are part of the enjoyment. And today, I have the chef all to myself ♡.

The winter feast continued. Finally, the main event: the esteemed badger. Seated atop dried daikon, repeatedly frozen and thawed, was the rare badger, seldom available. The badger meat, simmered for several hours, was served with its own hot fat, poured over it with the addition of charcoal. It was truly here! I felt compelled to experience this with all my senses. Perhaps it was the aromatic herbs, the exceptionally high quality of the fat, or the power of the binchotan charcoal—or rather, all of them combined—that captivated my already delighted palate. The supremely elegant fat melted away like light snow, leaving a lasting impression. To put it seriously, in Chef Ishii's words, "This hot fat eliminates any gamey odor from the gibier." And indeed, it does (laughs). The badger, slowly simmered and coated in its own fat, could be enjoyed by choosing not to chew it extensively. Trying different ways to eat it is part of the fun!

For the finale, 80% soba noodles are served with the broth. The transformation of the broth, which had been diligently simmering for about two hours, was astonishing! It was as if it had been bewitched by a fox or a tanuki. It was no longer just broth; it was a rich soup (laughs). So this is how it had become... My stomach was quite full, but as a true gourmand, I felt compelled to savor every last drop of the broth, rich with the essence of gibier.

Chef Ishii mentioned, "I want to serve dishes that make people smile," but personally, I was on the verge of roaring with laughter. And now, as I write this article, while reviewing the menu I took home, I even find myself chuckling at the fact that the word "kiji" (pheasant) I typed at the beginning of this text has been converted to "雉" (the kanji for pheasant). A truly happy meal lingers long after it's over.

Chef Ishii further elaborated, "Now that we have the counter, there are still many things I want to do. For example, mountain sushi..." His ideas seem to flow endlessly. It appears that an increasingly unique "Ishii World" will unfold. I wonder when I can visit again.