To Know Is To Taste: Bleston Court YUKAWATAN | TRAVEL
TRAVEL | Bleston Court Yukawatan
To Meet This Dish, We Journey to Bleston Court Yukawatan (1)
“Yukawatan” (hereafter, Yukawatan) is the main dining room of HOSHINO RESORTS’ “Karuizawa Hotel Bleston Court” (hereafter, Hotel Bleston Court). I personally feel it could be called the main dining room for all HOSHINO RESORTS properties, not just Hotel Bleston Court.
Photographs by OHTAKI Kaku | Text by HASEGAWA Aya | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Cuisine Worthy of Travel, Far From Daily Life
The name “Yukawatan” is a coined word combining “Yukawa,” the river flowing through the Karuizawa Hoshino area, with “temps,” the French word for time. Yukawatan is located on the grounds of Hotel Bleston Court, but it stands amidst the trees, an otherworldly space isolated from the everyday. The full glass windows create a sense of unity with Karuizawa’s nature even while indoors – it’s absolutely superb!!
The standalone restaurant, Bleston Court Yukawatan, offers a landscape that is 100% Karuizawa.
The only option is a 20,000 yen omakase course (*). You can add wine pairing (approx. 12,000 yen for 6-7 types) or non-alcoholic cocktail pairing (approx. 4,800 yen for 5 types), but for most people, this is certainly not an inexpensive price... Nevertheless, Yukawatan has many passionate fans who visit Karuizawa specifically to dine here.
*From Tuesday, December 1, 2020, to Monday, January 11, 2021, the “King’s Game” is 23,000 yen. *All prices for food and drinks are before tax and service charge.
The theme of this series is “Cuisine Worthy of Travel, Far From Daily Life” – isn’t Yukawatan a pioneer of such restaurants in Japan?
The building is designed to blend with the surrounding nature, allowing guests to enjoy meals while gazing at the trees that change with the seasons through large windows bathed in sunlight.
The seating capacity was limited to just 24 to allow for flexible adjustments in taste and portion size according to each guest's requests.
The interior, with its vivid French red and gray velvet chairs, solid wood, and warm stucco walls, exudes a sense of dignity and chic tranquility.
An ornament displayed in the corridor leading to the dining floor.
The non-traditional space, with its carefully arranged seating and lighting, creates a completely different atmosphere between day and night.
Upon opening, former head chef Noriyuki Hamada established a theme of using ingredients from Nagano Prefecture. He creatively transformed local river fish like cherry trout and iwana, along with vegetables from Nagano's pure water sources, into innovative French cuisine under the banner of “water game,” eschewing seafood not found in Shinshu.
Chef Hamada became a globally recognized star chef in 2013 when he achieved third place worldwide and first place in the fish category at the biennial French culinary competition “Bocuse d’Or,” a first for a Japanese chef. Subsequently, gourmands began visiting Yukawatan from around the world, not just from Tokyo. In July 2016, Chef Hamada moved to head the dining at “HOSHINOYA Tokyo” upon its opening, leaving Karuizawa.
So, who took over from Chef Hamada, you ask!? Let me introduce him. Since December 2016, Yukawatan has been led by Hiroshi Matsumoto.
Bleston Court Yukawatan Chef Hiroshi Matsumoto
Matsumoto, 33, is from Ogawa Village in Nagano Prefecture. Yes, he is young. He moved to Yukawatan in July 2014 after working for seven years at a restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo. The catalyst, he says, was the birth of his child. He decided to return to his hometown, wanting to raise his child in a better environment than the city. “Nagano is large, so Ogawa Village, where I grew up, is quite far from Karuizawa (laughs).”
Though it may seem impolite, I asked him about the significant responsibility of succeeding the star chef Hamada. Matsumoto’s answer was lighthearted: “I always wanted to have my own restaurant, so I trained in Tokyo. I didn’t feel any great pressure.”
I have more anecdotes about Matsumoto’s character I’d like to share, but there are limits to word count, even online. Let’s move on to the food. What, you want me to hurry up? My apologies, my apologies.
TRAVEL | Bleston Court Yukawatan
To Meet This Dish, We Journey to Bleston Court Yukawatan (2)
As mentioned earlier, Yukawatan offers only one course. While the menu changes with the seasons, the number of dishes and their temperatures also vary depending on the menu composition. Here is an excerpt from the course as of the end of June 2020.
After the amuse-bouche, the first appetizer was “Bell Pepper Mousse.” The moment it was served, the word that escaped my lips was, “How cute!!” The appetizer, a bell pepper mousse adorned with bell pepper purée and tomato consommé, had an elegant presentation that evoked a sophisticated highland summer.
Bell pepper mousse was once a signature dish at the renowned “Côte d’Or” in Mita, Tokyo. “The mousse, made with bell peppers that have a sweet, almost fruity flavor, is perfect for summer,” says Matsumoto. Its delicate appearance, the exquisite balance of acidity and sweetness, and its smooth texture… it was the start of a dazzling evening.
Appetizer: Carp and Cucumber Composition
The next appetizer was “Carp and Cucumber Composition.” Carp, a signature ingredient at Yukawatan, made an early appearance. Yukawatan serves carp dishes year-round. “While we change the accompanying ingredients and preparation according to the season, we always include carp,” Matsumoto emphasizes.
Actually, Matsumoto confesses, “Despite being from Nagano, I didn’t like carp. It smelled, it wasn’t tasty, I actually hated it (laughs).” However, at Yukawatan, with its concept of “water game,” carp, which has been eaten in Shinshu for centuries and is raised in its pure soil, is a staple ingredient. He had no choice but to confront it. So, he tasted every part of the fish in the kitchen.
“Carp has completely different characteristics depending on the part. And it’s full of bones. But with the right preparation and cooking method, it can be made much more delicious. I realized its potential, that it’s by no means inferior to seafood.”
If you say so, then I understand. I’m not particularly fond of carp either, but I’ll be the judge of your skills!
The dish arrived with the explanation, “This carp was swimming just a moment ago.” It was presented in such a way that I almost asked, “And where is this carp?” But that was precisely Matsumoto’s intention.
The carp, apparently a bit shy, was hidden beneath the cucumbers. It was served with a rich sauce made from white wine sauce blended with miso. What looks like cheese is actually powdered peanut oil. Cucumber flowers adorned the top.
“Carp has a poor image, and some people will ask for something else just by seeing the word ‘carp’ on the menu. I wanted to remove any preconceived notions from the appearance, so I focused on making it visually appealing.”
The firm yet tender texture of the glossy pink carp seemed to whisper of its recent life in the water. With the sauce, the carp revealed another facet, bursting in the mouth. Ah, I might just fall in love with carp.
Oh, please don’t be put off. Matsumoto himself says, “I used to dislike carp as a child, but now I like it.”
“It’s not just about carp, but I’m always exploring new methods to make things even more delicious. We make changes not only in preparation but in various other ways.”
How high will Yukawatan’s carp reach?
Minato Matsubara, manager of Bleston Court Yukawatan. His wine selection focuses on Burgundy but also actively includes wines from Nagano Prefecture. Regarding Yukawatan’s pairings, he says, “We try to incorporate elements that pique intellectual curiosity, like little puzzles.”
The sommelier paired this carp dish with Saint-Péray from Auguste Clape, a winery in the Côtes du Rhône that has been producing wine in its unique style for over 250 years. Its mineral-rich, smooth taste further enhanced the subtle sweetness of the carp, eventually permeating every corner of the body. This is the joy of pairing, isn’t it? Dishes and wines that might never have met achieve a miraculous encounter, embracing each other to lead us to an unimaginable state of bliss. My anticipation for the wines offered by the sommelier, as well as the food, is immense. I’m practically leaning forward in my seat!
Appetizer: Salade Verte
The final appetizer, serving as a refreshment, was “Salade Verte.” Its appearance alone suggested a dish that would make the body rejoice. On top of a whey bavarois, we enjoyed green beans, snap peas, and Italian green peas grown by a local farmer at the request of a certain foreign chef, seasoned with hazelnut oil and salt.
The different beans each exuded their unique character and aroma, yet harmonized beautifully without clashing, creating a magnificent concerto. The white flower in the center is apparently a green pea flower. When the server mentioned, “It smells like beans,” I took a whiff. I was reminded anew of how enjoyable dining is when all the senses are stimulated.
It turns out Matsumoto’s family ran a mixed farm. He grew up eating delicious vegetables, but “as a child, I didn’t think they were delicious. I only realized the deliciousness of Nagano’s vegetables as an adult.” The vegetables that have met Matsumoto’s discerning eye are given new life on Yukawatan’s plates, serving us with beauty and flair.
TRAVEL | Bleston Court Yukawatan
To Meet This Dish, We Journey to Bleston Court Yukawatan (3)
The fish dish was “Poêlé of Sturgeon, Sauce Royale.” By the way, did you know sturgeon is a freshwater fish? To my shame, I didn’t… Also, sturgeon are not sharks. They are called sharks simply because they look like them. Sturgeon are bony fish, while sharks are cartilaginous fish. They belong to completely opposite lineages. Poor things, being called sharks when they aren’t even sharks…
I occasionally eat caviar, but it’s rare to have the opportunity to eat sturgeon itself. Matsumoto also recalls, “Four years ago, when I last ate it, it wasn’t delicious, and I decided not to use it in my cooking.” However, last year, after changing the way carp was prepared, which significantly improved its freshness, he wondered if the same method could be applied to sturgeon. Trying it, he found, “I was able to bring out the fat inherent in the sturgeon, and it became exceptionally delicious.”
Fish Dish: Poêlé of Sturgeon, Sauce Royale
The sturgeon poêlé, coated in a saffron sauce and an anise-scented foam, had a firm texture reminiscent of fugu – I was speechless! Who knew this sturgeon fellow was so capable! Its elegant fat shone even brighter when paired with the herb sauce and foam. Sturgeon, you are truly fortunate to have met Chef Matsumoto.
Meat Dish: Roasted Duck with Lavender Sauce
The main dish served that day was “Roasted Duck with Lavender Sauce.” The duck, raised specifically for Yukawatan, was carefully steamed and roasted, then served with lavender sauce. The surface of the meat was a beautiful rosé. What looks like bonito flakes is actually burdock root caramelized and dried, which Matsumoto describes as “an image of the scent of the earth.”
The duck meat, milky and juicy, was prepared using a specific method to preserve its tenderness. Matsumoto states, “The way it’s prepared, even down to plucking the feathers, completely changes the flavor and aroma.” The producer he trusts implicitly is a former sake shop owner who now raises ducks. They are fed a diet centered on grains, including sake lees, which results in delicious fat.
The floral aroma of the lavender sauce wafted through my senses. It mingled with the tender sweetness of the duck's juices and fat, elevating the experience. As I gently closed my eyes to savor this blissful moment, Matsumoto’s words came back to me.
“What I studied was traditional French cuisine, which emphasizes sauces. While I use ingredients from Shinshu as the core and add modern touches, I want the final result to be firmly rooted in French cuisine.”
Yes, what we are enjoying is, without a doubt, French cuisine.
Caramelized Fig with Black Sesame Glaze and Black Sesame Ice Cream
The dessert, gracing the finale of the course, was also created by Matsumoto. While working at a French restaurant in Tokyo, he also spent about a year as a pastry chef. “I love making desserts because I have a sweet tooth,” he says. Believing that patisserie sweets and restaurant desserts are different, he considers, “It shouldn’t be too heavy as the final course, but it also shouldn’t be so light that you can’t remember what you ate.” He approaches it with the mindset of “cooking first. I construct it with the image of creating a sweet dish, focusing on layering flavors and creating momentary forms.”
Indeed, the main dessert that day, “Caramelized Fig with Black Sesame Glaze and Black Sesame Ice Cream,” was truly a “sweet French dish.” It featured ginger brûlée, fresh figs caramelized on the surface, topped with rich black sesame ice cream. The rough, brown elements are cookie dough baked with Earl Grey powder. The red specks on the plate are a purée of fig skin simmered in red wine. The stick-like garnish is a white sesame tuile.
The visual impact, the diverse textures that can be enjoyed lightly even after a meal, the layering of various flavors… It’s wonderful that even after finishing a full course and declaring myself full, I could still enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed.
Nearby are academic spots for strolling and sightseeing. The Karuizawa Kogen Church, with its distinctive triangular roof nestled among the trees on a small hill, was born from the “Artistic Liberal Education Workshop” held in 1921 (Taisho 10). Christian thinker Kanzo Uchimura, literary figures Hakushu Kitahara and Fujimura Shimazaki, and other leading cultural figures of the era gathered here, discussing freely under the philosophy that “play is also good, and play is also learning.” Uchimura deeply cherished this space and named it “Hoshino Yugakudo” (Hoshino Study and Play Hall). Although it was renamed “Karuizawa Kogen Church” in 1974, the name “Hoshino Yugakudo” is still prominently engraved on the front of the building.
As I drifted in a pleasant state of satisfaction, Matsumoto said something.
“I believe the joy of French cuisine lies in providing many surprises and new discoveries within a single course – not just finishing a meal, but allowing guests to experience various emotions.”
At Yukawatan, you can spend time exactly like that.
“And there are things you can only eat in this kind of environment. I want to continue creating cuisine that allows people to experience the land of Karuizawa, with all my heart.”
To savor cuisine that stimulates intellectual curiosity, vividly expressing the climate of Shinshu.
Yukawatan is the kind of restaurant where you’ll want to invite someone special for life’s milestones.
