Almost like going abroad! An overwhelming sense of the extraordinary. Island hopping among the Yaeyama Islands, starting from Ishigaki Island, Okinawa.
TRAVEL｜HOSHINOYA RESORTS
Experience a diverse range of travel styles offered by Hoshino Resorts' properties across the Yaeyama Islands, all in one comprehensive trip.
With ongoing travel restrictions due to the pandemic, going abroad has become challenging. Did you know there are exceptional destinations where you can experience a sense of the extraordinary, as if you were overseas? From exploring hidden gems in tropical rainforests to gaining insights through daily life immersed in Yaeyama culture, the continuous stream of experiences feels utterly disconnected from anywhere else in Japan. Now is the perfect time to visit, before it becomes the next big trend!
Photographs by OHTAKI Kaku | Text by HASEGAWA Aya | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Add this to your travel plans! A new kind of Okinawa experience that you don't need to wait until summer for.
Editor: TsuchidaSo, 'Hoshino Resorts' is recommending 'remote island hopping' in Okinawa's Yaeyama Islands. It involves using a ferry company's round-trip ticket to go around Ishigaki Island → Iriomote Island → Kohamajima Island → Taketomi Island.
Writer: HasegawaLately, I've been feeling the effects of aging, so while I was interested, I honestly thought, 'This might be too difficult for my aging body...' But then I thought, 'Maybe I should try it while I still have the energy?' So, I finally decided to give it a go, and it was surprisingly fun.
Even within Okinawa's remote islands, each island has its own distinct character, and 'Hoshino Resorts' has carefully differentiated its properties!
TsuchidaWe tend to think of summer as the only peak season for Okinawa travel, but surprisingly, the winter charm is incredible. Okinawa's swimming season starts around March, and you can even enjoy snorkeling in mid-winter with a wetsuit, right?
And best of all, it's not crowded at this time of year!!
HasegawaThis 'calm winter Okinawa' was wonderful. I feel like I could get hooked. I love the peak season too, with its 'quintessential Okinawa' vibe, but it's just so hot (naturally, of course!). I never knew you could snorkel in winter!
First Hop! HOSHINOYA RESORTS Iriomote Island Hotel
The entrance to the jungle on the hotel grounds, where the complimentary "Iriomote Guide Walk" takes place. It feels like a hidden paradise.
A terrace that lets you fully enjoy the jungle atmosphere. This is also on the hotel grounds.
Signs warning about Iriomote wildcats can be found throughout the island.
TsuchidaIriomote Island really feels like a hidden paradise. The air itself feels different from the moment you step off the ferry. And before checking in, I received an email from the hotel about ecotourism. That was quite novel.
There's no recycling system on Iriomote Island. Garbage is sent to Ishigaki Island by ferry. Therefore, the hotel aims for a completely eco-friendly stay to minimize waste leaving the island.
So, they ask guests to bring their own toothbrushes. If you want to cooperate with eco-friendly practices, you'll feel motivated to do so. Of course, if you can't bring one for any reason, the hotel provides them.
HasegawaThey also advocate for being plastic bottle-free. Instead of bottled mineral water in rooms, there's a water server on the lobby floor where you can fill your own bottles or paper cups with water or sanpin tea. At certain times, they even had ROYCE's brown sugar chocolates (lol).
There's a private pool facing the room's terrace. Beyond that is the beach. The sound of waves? Of course, you can hear it.
It feels like being surrounded by a jungle, but the trees actually form a windbreak, and beyond them lies the beach.
The path connecting the pool to the beach is wonderfully atmospheric. Moonlight magic happens here. Definitely.
The terrace is designed like this. Simple, but with a tropical feel and a great atmosphere.
The interior has a Balinese style. The daybed area is elegant.
TsuchidaThe 'Iriomote Island Hotel' has a private pool. Beyond that is a private beach. While a windbreak separates the beach and pool, this windbreak creates a jungle-like atmosphere, making it exotic. And when you step onto the room's terrace, you can clearly hear the sound of the waves. It wasn't just an ocean view, but the 'ocean sound' was incredibly soothing.
HasegawaThe fact that you can't quite see everything is somehow sexy (lol). The terrace is spacious too, and I'd be perfectly happy just spending all my time there! For lunch on the first day, I ate on the terrace while listening to the waves. It really doesn't feel like a Japanese resort, in a good way.
TsuchidaI agree! The scale of the hotel is just right, too. The staff are attentive but not intrusive, creating a very relaxed atmosphere. They remember your name but also give you space.
Most people head out for outdoor activities. But it's also fine to just relax around the pool area during the day.
HasegawaYes, yes, most people in the lobby area in the morning are saying, 'Off to an activity!' But the activities themselves are so varied that you don't end up doing the same thing.
Even I, a total indoor person, thoroughly enjoyed myself! On the first day alone, we did the 'Iriomote Guide Walk' and the 'Sunset Mangrove Kayaking' – we were quite energetic.
Look at these enormous leaves! They are parasitic on existing trees and, over decades, the roles reverse. The struggle for survival in the jungle is fierce.
Insects! The kids were delighted.
The guide's stories were fascinating. They use photos and figures to entertain us in every way possible.
Yaeyama Stripe-backed Pond Turtle. A nationally designated natural monument.
The logo for Iriomote Island Hotel, featuring a cute illustration of a wildcat. They sell eco-bags with this illustration. Highly recommended!
You glide smoothly just above the water. That is, if you're skilled (lol). Don't worry, the guide's instructions are excellent, so you'll get the hang of it quickly.
Mangroves. They look like they're floating on the water.
Oh, we spotted an island shaped like a whale ahead! The scenery is so interesting, you never get bored.
We moved upstream, past the dense mangrove groves. We really went for it.
TsuchidaBoth activities were incredibly satisfying and a must-do. The 'Iriomote Guide Walk,' despite being a free activity, allowed us to experience the hidden paradise of Iriomote Island right on the hotel grounds within the jungle.
And the kayaking! It was my first time kayaking, but I was so impressed by how you can glide so close to the water's surface in such silence.
HasegawaThe jungle starts right behind the hotel! I never knew that 'Gajumaru' trees could be so dangerous (※), and the guide's stories were all so interesting. If I had to be picky, I wish I could have seen more Yaeyama Stripe-backed Pond Turtles, though.
(※) 'Gajumaru' trees are surprisingly dangerous, as they parasitize existing trees and, over decades, strangle them to take their place.
And the kayaking. I've done it a few times before, but usually, you have to drive from the hotel to the kayak launch point. Here, it's within walking distance! The mangrove estuary is within walking distance – what an incredibly convenient location (lol).
TsuchidaIt's typical of Hoshino Resorts to schedule activities specifically to coincide with sunset. They choose the most evocative times to create memorable experiences.
HasegawaWhen we returned to the hotel, they were serving sparkling wine by the pool. We were still wet, but of course, we enjoyed it!
The guide walks effortlessly over the rocks, but they're slippery. We city dwellers are cautious. Well, it means we're unaccustomed to it.
The guide looks surprised that we're taking so many photos, but we're here for an assignment (sweat drop).
The destination for our trek was a waterfall. Look at its divine beauty. I've heard that in ancient Okinawa, rituals were performed with waterfalls as a backdrop.
TsuchidaThe next day, we also tried 'Jungle Trekking.' Walking along the stream with the guide, we found a waterfall, and its divine beauty was overwhelming. Well, the guide seemed a bit exasperated by our lack of skill (lol) and changed the original destination.
HasegawaThe guide mentioned they adjust the course based on the participants' level. Phew, it was good they gave us an out early on. Then, we changed plans and went to a different waterfall, but I felt a great sense of accomplishment and self-affirmation. And that waterfall was wonderful too.
TsuchidaThis isn't the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland, you know (lol). It's a real jungle.
And the guides know many courses. That's why they can offer activities every day without getting boring. Even if you go to the same waterfall, you can walk through the stream or go up the river by kayak. So, people of all fitness levels can enjoy it.
HasegawaAlright, next time let's aim for a waterfall that's a step up in difficulty! Depending on the season, we'll see different scenery, and Iriomote Island has so much depth.
Second Step! HOSHINOYA RESORTS Kohamajima
There's not much to explain here, just a peaceful and heartwarming landscape. This is the kind of scenery you find on Kohamajima.
TsuchidaKohamajima, in contrast to Iriomote Island, was a peaceful resort island. It has the southernmost golf course in Japan, and you can do all sorts of beach activities.
HasegawaI know, I know. Iriomote Island with its real jungle, and Kohamajima with its rustling sugarcane fields.
Completely different impressions (lol).
Personally, the story about wild peacocks living there was a highlight. They even have pure white peacocks!
Tsuchida(lol) Apparently, peacocks that were kept as pets eventually bred and became wild.
In contrast to the intense experience on Iriomote Island, here you'll want to try modern activities. For example, SUP (Stand-Up Paddleboarding). They took us to a calm bay without waves, so even as a beginner, I could stand on the board.
Nervous about my first SUP experience. But the instructor explained everything carefully, and the calm water was perfect for practice.
And off we went from the shore. Hasegawa, being experienced, was very composed.
Standing on the water with your own feet is a strange sensation. It's completely different from paddling a boat.
HasegawaIt was truly peaceful.
The difficulty of SUP varies greatly depending on the location. Although it was a bit cloudy, so we didn't see a dramatic sunset, the ink-wash painting-like scenery was also very healing!
TsuchidaMy abs were a little sore the next day. It's good that it worked out my inner muscles, which I don't usually use.
And we also landed on the 'Phantom Island.' It's called 'phantom' because it submerges at high tide. But they told us it actually has an official address in Okinawa Prefecture.
We went to the snorkeling spot and the 'Phantom Island' on a Sabani boat. It's open-air and very pleasant!
We wore wetsuits and flippers. Everything was rented, and they even taught us how to breathe through the snorkel.
We swam with the abandon of children! Because the coral tables were within arm's reach, and there were so many clownfish around them.
This is the 'Phantom Island' we were taken to by the snorkeling tour boat.
HasegawaThe guide mentioned that you can even register your permanent address there (lol). Honestly, even for Okinawa, I wondered if snorkeling was really possible in winter! But since we wore wetsuits, it wasn't that cold.
When you think about it, diving is done year-round. They actually said that SUP and snorkeling were fully booked on New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.
TsuchidaDivers who have explored seas around the world say that the waters of Yaeyama are the best. The visibility is outstanding, and the coral ecosystem is magnificent.
Indeed, the coral tables spread out within easy reach, and there were many clownfish.
HasegawaI was so captivated by the coral and colorful fish that I swam with all my might (lol). The underwater world is always fun. I even saw a small shark.
TsuchidaOh, I fled at full speed from that. Everyone else was playing with it, saying it wasn't dangerous.
By the way, Kohamajima is also a wonderful destination for a workation. It has good WiFi, and multiple locations for a change of scenery.
HasegawaThe spa building also had a complimentary workation room. I used it while my laundry was running, and I think I could get some good work done here (lol). The view from the window overlooking the entire resort was also lovely.
Here's the beach! I happily walked down this path many times.
BEACH CAFE. Since it's a private beach, only hotel guests are here. So, it's free from crowds.
Enjoy a drink here after work. Or, perhaps you can't wait until evening and start drinking here with some snacks – that sounds like fun too.
This is a free-to-use space by the sea. Wi-Fi is available, of course.
The interior of the Books & Cafe is like this. Coffee and water are provided.
Ta-da! This is the workation room in the spa building. It's a private room, perfect for concentrating. Outside the window, you can see the entire Risonare Kohamajima resort. If available, you can use it for free.
They also have a plan to enjoy dinner on the beach. The basket contains a dinner set from the buffet restaurant for the number of people. The beach was atmospherically lit (the wine bottle was sold separately at the BEACH CAFE).
TsuchidaThe BEACH CAFE adjacent to the beach is fantastic. They sell wine not only by the glass but also by the bottle. A glass of wine after work while looking at the sea... that's ideal, isn't it?
Observation deck
Gajumaru Plaza
HasegawaThere's an observation deck overlooking the coastline, and the Gajumaru Plaza, where you can spend your time as you please. The 'Fresh Air Stretch' while watching the sunrise was also very invigorating.
Fresh Air Stretch is an activity designed to take advantage of the beach facing directly east, allowing you to stretch while experiencing the sunrise. It's a recommended activity that makes you glad you woke up early!
At the moment of sunrise, you can't help but stop and gaze. It's okay, it's a resort after all.
TsuchidaEven if you don't go into the water, there are plenty of activities to enjoy around the beach. It would probably be crowded with guests in the summer, but it's nice to be able to leisurely enjoy these luxurious beachside offerings. It's not cold, and it's just right if you're wearing clothes. It's understandable why many repeat visitors come in winter.
HasegawaYes, yes, the charm of Okinawa, Japan's proud resort destination, isn't just about 'going into' the sea. And the fact that you *can* go in if you want to is also a strong point.
Of course, good weather is always preferable, but I think you can have plenty of fun even on a rainy day. Also, the service of lending resort dresses for free at the front desk is a nice touch. I think women would be happy to wear dresses they wouldn't normally buy and enjoy resort time. We didn't have time to use it this time because we were so busy with activities (lol).
This is the pool in the beach area. There's another pool near the main building.
TsuchidaExactly. This property offers an abundance of choices. That's why you won't get bored, and you can enjoy whatever you do. The resort was built during the bubble era, so the grounds are incredibly spacious, and money has been spent on every corner. You even get around the grounds by cart, just like at an overseas resort.
HasegawaYou can also rent electric kickboards for free. I saw an older gentleman who seemed to be having a blast riding one?
TsuchidaYes, that was me (lol). It was my first time riding one, but it was so fun that I ended up riding around the grounds for no reason. I realized this is the kind of vehicle you see on public roads these days...
Third Jump! HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island
TsuchidaAnd then, Taketomi Island. This is the familiar HOSHINOYA brand, where each villa is detached, giving the impression that time has stopped. As 'HOSHINOYA' is based on the concept of 'rest that immerses you,' transitioning from the activity-filled Iriomote and Kohamajima islands feels like hitting the brakes, which is also enjoyable in its own way.
The modern pool at HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island. It's designed to resemble a spring.
The iconic observation deck of HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island. The wind blowing through here is so refreshing!
From the observation deck, you can see the ocean. At night, you can clearly see the lights of Ishigaki Island.
HasegawaThe way the villa-style rooms are designed to allow wind to pass through, the bathtub positioned to offer a specific view when you soak... everything is wonderful, and I just want to stay in my room. But the modern pool is also great, and the observation deck overlooking the entire resort, designed like a village, is a must-see. It's overwhelming (lol).
This is all within the hotel grounds. Of course, all 48 rooms are detached houses. In other words, it's a village of 48 homes. You can live here as if you were a resident.
TsuchidaIt's surprisingly not widely known how large the grounds of 'HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island' are. You use a cart to get from reception to your room. Being able to spend your time without hardly noticing other people is truly relaxing.
HasegawaThat's right. You hardly encounter anyone, and you only realize there are other guests when you go to the restaurant or lounge. The flow of time here is truly unique. If you want to go outside the resort, there's a free shuttle bus to the center of the island.
TsuchidaAnd the island culture that remains on Taketomi Island is reflected in the room designs and activities. Perhaps 'HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island' is the most 'Taketomi Island-like' place on the island.
HasegawaYes, I felt Hoshino Resorts' respect for Taketomi Island's history and culture in many ways. Their initiative to grow traditional island vegetables within the resort is also wonderful.
They are working hard to cultivate vegetables to preserve them for future generations. The hotel is actually undertaking a significant initiative to contribute to the preservation of culture and customs.
TsuchidaTaketomi Island was formed by the uplift of coral reefs, so rice cultivation is not possible, meaning they couldn't grow rice. Therefore, historically, they have continued to grow sweet potatoes as their staple food.
HasegawaI've visited Taketomi Island several times before, but I learned so many new things this time. I had no idea there was a kuruma prawn farm on the island. Hoshino Resorts' properties stimulate intellectual curiosity in a fun and subtly sophisticated way.
TsuchidaTherefore, 'HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island' is best suited for those with a keen sense of awareness. Triggers for discovery are scattered throughout the rooms and lounges, all presented with a globally refined touch.
The time spent here makes you reflect on many things, and these reflections become the fertilizer for your life.
HasegawaI've had the good fortune to visit 'HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island' several times. No matter when I come, a serene atmosphere prevails, and even though it's not a place with any personal connection, my heart feels at ease. It's hard to explain, but I've unofficially designated it as my second hometown and want to visit regularly (lol).
TsuchidaLook forward to a special feature article on 'HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island' coming soon!
Okinawa's island hopping is truly enjoyable. While maintaining Hoshino Resorts' quality, the distinct personalities of each island are fascinating, and I was surprised to experience such an extraordinary sense of being abroad.
HasegawaEven when you say 'Okinawa's remote islands,' each one has its own unique character. An island-hopping trip in Okinawa where you can experience these distinct personalities all at once is a superb form of entertainment! If you find an island you love, you can always choose to stay there longer on your next visit.
Oh, and don't forget to savor the brown sugar and awamori from each island.
Rates: From ¥24,000 per room (including tax and service charge, breakfast included). Access: Approx. 25 minutes by ferry from Ishigaki Port, then 10 minutes by shuttle bus from Kohama Port.
