It’s hot, isn’t it? Ah, so hot, so hot. Just saying the word “hot” makes one feel hotter, yet before you know it, the word escapes your lips again, a muttered “hot.” It’s an endless loop. When it’s cloudy, it’s muggy, and when it’s sunny, the sunlight pierces relentlessly. When it’s this hot, it’s best not to push yourself and to cool down efficiently with the air conditioning. But what about the ancient people of the capital, when time flowed backward and Kyoto was their city? How did they spend their summers in the “basin summer,” surrounded by mountains? Delivering their wisdom and culture to the present day is Hoshinoya Kyoto’s summer activity, “Oku-Arashiyama Summer Retreat,” available until Saturday, August 31st.

Do you know about “kawakaze,” or river wind? It’s the breeze that blows from upstream to downstream, carrying the crisp mountain air through lush trees. This is why you occasionally feel a gentle, cool breeze when you’re by the riverbank. However, to feel that coolness directly, the best way is to board a boat, leave the shore, and experience it on the water's surface.

Hoshinoya Kyoto would never overlook such wisdom from the past. Guests board a boat at the private pier near Togetsukyo Bridge and head towards Oku-Arashiyama, where the inn is located. The wind during this journey is simply delightful. Opening the window, feeling the breeze, fanning oneself with a uchiwa fan to cool down. It sounds ordinary when put into words, but how divine that ordinary scene is… Because to your left is Arashiyama, and to your right is Ogura Mountain. With the vibrant green of the mountains felt by your eyelids, the coolness that brushes your cheeks as it parts the two mountains transforms an ordinary person like me, for a moment, into a Heian courtier.

And the boats at Hoshinoya have seats that are close to the water's surface. You could scoop up water with your hand if you reached out. I believe that’s why the sense of unity with nature is extraordinary! The boat’s quiet engine sound erases the presence of civilization, enhancing the interaction with the river wind. Cruising up the Oi River, the boat heads towards the inn at the leisurely pace of a hand-rowed boat, just like the courtiers who visited Arashiyama to escape the heat.

Yaguras, or wooden platforms, are built over the Kamo River flowing through Kyoto City, creating terrace-like spaces to enjoy the evening cool. It’s a summer ambiance that colors the ancient capital. The essence of this has been incorporated into what is named the “Oku-Arashiyama Noryo-Yuka.” A premium “floating living space” has been set up in the “Waterside Garden,” the heart of the Hoshinoya Kyoto grounds, allowing guests to listen to the sound of the flowing waterfall while in the pond.

This Noryo-Yuka is available daily during the “Oku-Arashiyama Summer Retreat” period, from dusk until sunset, except on days with severe weather. The time around dusk is, after all, the best. Because as the sun sets, it means you can freely enjoy alcoholic beverages. Hehe. Here, you can quench your thirst before dinner.

First, two beautiful cocktails. The pink drink in the short cocktail glass is “MINAMI.” Based on Kyoto’s famous craft gin “Ki No Bi” and the lychee liqueur “DITA,” it’s a sweet drink with creamy amazake added. And on the right is “ISARIBI.” This color contrast is said to represent the cormorant fishing lights, a specialty of Arashiyama. It features grape liqueur with blood orange. They also offer a wide selection of domestic whiskies. Notably, they have Ichiro’s Malt, a brand rumored to be available only in the Chichibu area of Saitama.

Furthermore, on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays during the “Oku-Arashiyama Summer Retreat” period, as well as during the Obon holidays from August 13th to 15th, a “Waterside Evening Concert” is held for an hour and a half starting at 5 PM. Traditional Japanese instruments such as the shinobue flute, koto, and shamisen are performed. However, the repertoire is intentionally not fixed, with performances often improvised to the sounds of the waterfall and the chirping of cicadas. Rather than upbeat music, it serves as ambient sound to create a calm atmosphere, without disrupting the enjoyable conversations during your stay at Hoshinoya.

When a gentle breeze blows, a wind chime rings, “chirin, chiriin.” The wind chimes, displayed throughout the waterside garden, are one-of-a-kind pieces crafted by Kyoto artisans, each with a unique tone. Wind chimes, which materialize the invisible presence of wind through sound, are logical devices conceived by ancient people to enjoy coolness with the mind. Counting the wind… hmm, indeed.

It’s a wonderful thought, isn’t it?

After relaxing in the room after dinner, at 10 PM, an activity called “Mizube no Yaza” (Waterside Meditation) begins in the “Oku no Niwa” (Inner Garden). It’s a 30-minute activity where you surrender your body to the cooler night air of Arashiyama, allowing for complete relaxation of mind and body. This is the ultimate way to beat the heat.

The primary goal is to regulate breathing and enter a meditative state, making it accessible to anyone. The activity itself takes place within a mosquito net set up in the garden. This mosquito net is spun and crafted from Kitayama cedar from Kyoto.

Being inside the mosquito net feels like being in a tent while camping, providing a sense of comfortable enclosure, loosely protected from the outside world. At the same time, sitting directly on the ground with a mat laid out, your gaze lowers, and you’re surprised by how different the garden feels compared to when you walked through it during the day. Distant footsteps sound vivid, and the babbling of the river begins to be heard in surround sound. Your senses are tuned up, becoming vivid to sounds and smells. With your antenna sensitivity heightened, take another deep breath. As you extend your limbs following the instructor’s guidance, the heat from your body gradually dissipates.

The next morning—

As you stroll through the grounds, purified by the morning dew sprinkling, the hospitality shown to the limited 25 guests truly touches your heart. And I thought, “What is a Japanese summer?” Is it hot and unbearable? Is it humid and harsh like in tropical countries these days? The answer is, overwhelmingly, yes.

On the other hand, the courtiers of the capital found enjoyment in Kyoto’s harsh summers. Because the idea of counting the wind is truly remarkable, isn’t it? Of course, their lives were elegant and incomparable to mine, constantly chasing deadlines and on the verge of tears. But I realized that making an effort to maintain peace of mind is important. While air conditioning is undoubtedly superior to sprinkling water, in terms of ingenuity, we are thoroughly defeated.

Learning from the wisdom of our predecessors. I still have much to learn.

Hoshinoya Kyoto
Location: 11-2 Motorokuzan-cho, Arashiyama, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
Access: Approx. 10-minute walk from Hankyu Arashiyama Station, Approx. 30-minute drive from Kyoto Minami IC
Number of Rooms: 25
Rates: From ¥106,000 per room per night (excluding meals, plus 10% tax and service charge)

Oku-Arashiyama Summer Retreat
Period: Until Saturday, August 31, 2019
*Waterside Evening Concerts are held on Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays, and during the Obon period (August 13-15).
Time: Varies by event
Location: Within Hoshinoya Kyoto facilities
Fees: Varies by event
Eligibility: Guests staying at Hoshinoya Kyoto
Notes: In case of rain, events may be relocated.

Noryo BAR
Time: 18:00 - 23:00
Location: Oku-Arashiyama Noryo-Yuka
Fees: From ¥1,500 (tax and service included)
Reservations: Not required

Waterside Evening Concert
Period: Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays until August 31, 2019, and during the Obon period (August 13-15)
Time: 17:00 - 18:30
Location: Oku-Arashiyama Noryo-Yuka
Fees: Free
Reservations: Not required

Mizube no Yaza (Waterside Meditation)
Time: 22:00 - 22:30
Location: Oku no Niwa (Inner Garden)
Fees: Free
Capacity: 4 people
Reservations: Required by 8 PM on the day of at the official website or front desk