To 'know' is to savor! Hoshino Resorts RISONNARE Yatsugatake

TRAVEL | HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake

In the summer of 2020, when long-distance travel felt daunting, I visited HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake (hereafter, RISONNARE Yatsugatake), which has a wine resort concept. Of course, I went to drink, eat, and fully enjoy wine!

Photographs by Kaku Ohtaki | Text by Aya Hasegawa | Edit by Takashi Tsuchida

An Unrelenting 11-Course Meal to Savor Japan's Rich Terroir to the Fullest

Nestled in the majestic Southern Alps mountain range, RISONNARE Yatsugatake is located at an altitude of 960 meters on the border of Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures. Designed by Italian master architect Mario Bellini, the resort offers a space that evokes the streetscapes of his native Italian mountain towns amidst breathtaking nature.

TRAVEL HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake

The exterior of HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake. The glass-enclosed section is the main dining room, "OTTO SETTE." Despite its convenient location just minutes from the Chuo Expressway's Kobuchizawa IC and a 5-minute shuttle bus ride from Kobuchizawa Station (about 2 hours from Shinjuku Station), it exudes an overwhelming sense of resort.

RISONNARE Yatsugatake (formerly RISONNARE Kobuchizawa) came under the management of HOSHINO RESORTS in 2001. In 2006, it began a new chapter as a wine resort in partnership with "Domaine Mie Ikeno," a nearby winery committed to natural winemaking methods. Yamanashi Prefecture is the birthplace of Japanese wine, and Hokuto City, where the resort is located, was the first place in Japan certified as a "Special Economic Zone for Wine" in 2008. Several small wineries are scattered throughout the area.

Indeed, this is a wine paradise in Japan.

Main Dining Room "OTTO SETTE"

Adjacent to OTTO SETTE is an impressive 12-meter-wide wine cellar. Of the approximately 2,000 bottles in stock, 90% are from Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures.

The highlight of this visit was the "Vino e Verdura" (Wine and Vegetables) course offered at the resort's main dining room, OTTO SETTE. As the name suggests, it's a exquisite 11-course meal featuring vegetables as the star, from appetizers to desserts, paired with 10 types of wine from Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures.

The paired wines for "Vino e Verdura." You can enjoy all of these. For wine lovers, it's simply irresistible!

But... vegetables as the star of every dish? And wine exclusively from Yamanashi and Nagano? With these intriguing questions in mind, let's dive in! The menu changes based on seasonal availability, but here's a highlight of the "Vino e Verdura" course from early summer 2020.

The celebratory bubbles were "Kizan Traditional Brut 2017" (left in the photo above), a Koshu grape wine made using the same method as Champagne (secondary fermentation in the bottle). With its fine, creamy bubbles and a light yet lingering finish, its quality became evident with every sip. Japanese sparkling wine, you're doing great!

Nature

The first appetizer, "Nature," is a composition of four small dishes themed around the "water, soil, forest, and sun" that nurture Yatsugatake. The "soil" dish featured fresh radish and turnip mousse beneath potato powder resembling earth, while the "sun" dish was a chilled tomato cappellini in a sorbet-like sauce, awakening the palate. These were paired with Kyoeido's "K19 AK_DD," an "orange wine" made from fermented fruit peels. This wine, with its spicy aroma and subtle bitterness, embraced all four dishes while asserting its own presence.

Blessings

The next appetizer, "Blessings," is a dish that truly embodies the philosophy of "Vino e Verdura," showcasing a splendid ensemble of 30 types of local vegetables. Its vibrant appearance, reminiscent of a summer vegetable garden, was captivating even before tasting.

Masato Kamata, Chef at HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake's OTTO SETTE

"We aim to bring out the maximum potential of vegetables through cooking methods like fresh, marinated, or boiled," says Chef Masato Kamata. For example, cauliflower was boiled to retain its crispness, and beets were served both raw and boiled, "so you can enjoy the differences in their flavors."

It was delightful to savor each unique vegetable individually! Two sauces were offered: one made with komatsuna, and another with cumin-flavored carrots. Three types of grains were also served. The accompanying wine was "Domaine Soga Albariño 2019," a white wine made from Albariño, a rare grape variety in Japan. Its minerality and mellow fruitiness complemented the vegetables beautifully.

Matsutake Mushrooms

Chichitake (left) and Tamagotake (right)

I cautiously asked, "Why are the vegetables here in Yatsugatake so delicious?" Kamata-san replied, "The water is good, and the temperature difference helps vegetables grow well. Mushrooms are also excellent this season." This led to a soup made with the broth of "Chichitake," which Kamata-san noted has a stronger aroma than matsutake mushrooms, served with seasonal mushrooms like "Tamagotake." The accompanying wine was "Tsugane La Montagne Trans 2018," a Merlot with earthy notes reminiscent of broth, complementing the wildness of the mushrooms.

Eggplant

The pasta dish featured an oil-based sauce with eggplant as the main ingredient, accented with leek, myoga ginger, and anchovy. "The eggplant is slowly roasted to bring out its full flavor for the sauce," Kamata-san explained. The accompanying "VOTANO WINE (Shiojiri City) Kerner 2018" had a mature character despite its young vintage, enhancing the sweetness of the rich eggplant.

Young Corn

The seasonal young corn, grown in the Yatsugatake region, was "simply roasted," according to Kamata-san. "We added acidity with browned butter and red wine vinegar, and richness with roasted walnuts." The sweet, fresh young corn, bursting with youthful vitality, was served with its crisp silks still attached.

Masakuni Nagakubo, Sommelier at HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake's OTTO SETTE

The wine pairing for this dish was exceptionally brilliant. "Chardonnay 2018" from Kisvin Winery, crafted by a female winemaker trained in Burgundy, impressed with its clean, unadulterated fruitiness. This wine, aged in both stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels, was paired by sommelier Masakuni Nagakubo, who noted the "commonality between the flavors of browned butter and nuts, and the toasty aroma of the wine barrels." This pairing indeed enhanced the young corn's subtle creaminess, complemented by the browned butter aroma, creating a layered experience. The wine elevated the young corn, and Chef Kamata's words, "It's only natural that vegetables and wine grown in the same soil would pair well," gained further conviction.

This potato, the main dish, changes its origin and variety depending on the season. This one is Hokkai Kogane from Komachi Farm.

And the main course is... potato!

You might not recognize it at first glance, and it's important, so I'll say it again: the main potato is served buried in "soil" made of potato skins, red wine powder, and bamboo charcoal. The service staff reverently unearthed it for us, presenting it as a "harvest."

TRAVEL | HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake

To Experience This Dish: HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake (Part 2)

Generous amounts of fresh truffle were added on top. Upon opening, a sauce made from fertilized eggs and Grana Padano cheese flowed out.

Who would have imagined a potato as the star of a dish? In fact, this esteemed potato has been the main act since the "Vino e Verdura" course began in 2015. "We spent about a year in trial and error to create the vegetable course," Kamata-san said, resulting in this signature dish.

After the meal, photographer Kaku Ohtaki's words lingered: "I feel like I could write a poem about potatoes right now." Whether you'd want to hear that poem is another matter, but yes, the potato possessed such an overwhelming presence. It was like the top star in a Takarazuka Revue performance, descending with feathered wings at the finale.

The paired wine was "Pinot Noir 2016" from Domaine Mie Ikeno. According to the sommelier, "2016 was a challenging year with poor weather in this region. However, Ikeno-san's grapes grew healthily, resulting in a full-bodied wine with the characteristic softness of Pinot Noir. The pairing is flawless." One sip confirmed his words! The gentle, soft flavor of the Pinot Noir perfectly complemented the silky texture of the potato and the creaminess of the egg.

Butternut Squash

And as mentioned, vegetables are the stars of the desserts too (including palate cleansers and petit fours). Today's dessert featured a panna cotta topped with orange and cinnamon espuma, layered with butternut squash gelato, and finished with a warm honey-ginger sauce, "with caramelized almonds for texture," according to Kamata-san.

The pairing was "Levain Sauvignon Blanc Frozen Fruit Fermentation 2012" from Azumi Apple Winery in Azumino City. This wine, as the name suggests, uses frozen Sauvignon grapes, offering a crispness within its mature sweetness. This combination of sweet and sweet, surprisingly, allowed the dessert to be enjoyed without being overly cloying. The magic of wine pairing is truly astonishing.

So, this exquisite tasting course, featuring seasonal vegetables paired with wines exclusively from Yamanashi and Nagano, reflecting their shared terroir... I am completely full. Although vegetables are the main focus, the portions are substantial enough for a grown man. Furthermore, it's not vegan cuisine; anchovies, eggs, and other ingredients are used for flavor accents, offering a rich variety of tastes that prevent monotony. The menu simply lists the ingredients like "Eggplant" and "Potato," sparking curiosity about what form the next vegetable will take.

* A course meal consisting of many dishes.

"Italian cuisine, which emphasizes the natural flavors of ingredients through simple preparation, has a high affinity with the ingredients of Yatsugatake. We want to offer dishes that allow guests to fully experience the blessings of this land," says Kamata-san. It was a magical two-hour experience filled with surprise, understanding, and delight for the eyes, palate, and soul... I've discovered another restaurant I want to visit again in a different season.

Now that my stomach is full and I'm pleasantly tipsy, let me reintroduce you to the facilities of RISONNARE Yatsugatake.

Main Street, "Peperoncino Street"

There are 172 guest rooms, arranged around the cobblestone main street, "Peperoncino Street," which will make you feel like you're in Europe when you take photos. This time, I stayed in the "Wine Suite Maisonette," newly built in the hotel wing in the spring of 2019. It's a concept room designed for guests to fully savor wine – how could I resist?

Wine Suite Maisonette (1st Floor)

The moment I opened the room door, a vibrant Bordeaux color greeted me. This maisonette-style room has a bedroom and a daybed on the first floor. The walls are also painted in Bordeaux, depicting the Yatsugatake mountain range. Be sure to try the resort's original soap, made from wine pomace.

Wine Suite Maisonette (2nd Floor)

Private Wine Cellar in the Wine Suite Maisonette (2nd Floor)

The second floor is a space to enjoy your chosen wine at your leisure. The living area was intentionally placed on the second floor to allow guests to enjoy the unique Yatsugatake scenery with their wine. Sipping a glass while gazing at the twilight sky and Peperoncino Street from the large 3-meter by 3-meter window is simply divine. The small wine cellar, stocked with sommelier-selected wines, is also a delightful feature.

They also offer wines exclusive to the resort, such as half bottles from "Domaine Mie Ikeno," so be sure to check them out.

Peperoncino Street, the resort's main thoroughfare, stretches 150 meters and is lined with 19 establishments, including cafes and select shops. One of these, the buffet and grill restaurant "YYgrill," offers a wide array of vegetable-based dishes. I visited for breakfast and was impressed by the new measures implemented for the era of social distancing, such as providing gloves to guests and installing acrylic covers over the food. While maintaining the essence of a buffet – enjoying as much as you like – it allowed for a safe and enjoyable dining experience.

YATSUGATAKE Wine house

YATSUGATAKE Wine house automatic wine dispenser

Wine enthusiasts should definitely visit the "YATSUGATAKE Wine house," where a wide selection of Yamanashi and Nagano wines, curated by sommeliers, are available. You can sample 24 types of wine at a time, starting from small portions (25ml~), allowing you to confirm the taste before purchasing a bottle.

The corn here is so sweet and delicious you can eat it raw!
Hamara Farm https://www.instagram.com/hamara_farm/?hl=ja

Seasonal events are also held on Peperoncino Street. The "Yatsugatake Marche," held in the summer, is in its 11th year. The corn, purchased directly from local farmers and so sweet it can be eaten raw, is a must-try for repeat visitors.

There are also plenty of other activities that take advantage of the Yatsugatake location. A popular activity for families is the "Summer Sun Kitchen," where guests can harvest summer vegetables in a field overlooking the Southern Alps and grill them. It's perfect for children's food education, and many picky eaters have reportedly overcome their aversion to vegetables by eating what they've harvested themselves.

Other activities include "Forest Horseback Riding," "Vineyard Aperitif," "Spectacular Sky Lunch," and "Yatsugatake Winery Walk," all designed to spark the playful side of adults. A holiday at a wine resort promises to be quite busy.

RISONNARE Yatsugatake attracts a diverse range of guests, including families, couples, and groups of friends, confirming its popularity across various demographics, even during the summer holidays. Since April 2020, rooms with terraces have been available for stays with dogs, offering a wonderful way to enjoy the highland life with your beloved pet.

In essence, RISONNARE Yatsugatake is a "resort for adults," with carefully crafted attractions catering to a wide range of ages and preferences. It guarantees an enjoyable experience regardless of when you visit or who you are with.

HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake

Address | 129-1 Kobuchizawa, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture
Number of Rooms | 172 rooms in total
Public Facilities | Indoor pool with wave machine, large public bath, main dining room, 19 select shops
Check-in / Check-out | 15:00 / 12:00
Room Rates | From ¥21,000 per night per room (excluding tax, breakfast included)
Access | 5-minute free shuttle bus from JR Chuo Line Kobuchizawa Station, 5-minute drive from Kobuchizawa IC on the Chuo Expressway

Inquiries

HOSHINO RESORTS RISONNARE Yatsugatake
Tel. 0570-073-055 (RISONNARE Reservation Center)
https://risonare.com/yatsugatake/