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June 28, 2023
Architectural Beauty and Natural Serenity at "Shishiiwa House Karuizawa" | TRAVEL
TRAVEL | Shishiiwa House Karuizawa
Delicious food and a relaxing space. Luxury is "peace."
After three long, unavoidable years, the world has finally returned to normal. Masks are off, restaurants are bustling, and business trips and travel have resumed. Travel demand, in particular, has been tremendous; business hotels that used to cost around ¥10,000 are now often ¥30,000. With supply so far from meeting demand, it's no wonder cities are overflowing with people wherever you go. Many must have felt exhausted by the crowds after their first trip in a while.
Text by IJICHI Yasutake | Photograph by ARAKI Dai
Conceptual Accommodations Emerge in Karuizawa, an Evolving Resort Town
Experienced travelers, especially, have seen all the so-called "tourist spots" and prefer to leisurely visit only their favorite places rather than chasing trends. Their focus on "food" has also shifted from chasing fads to prioritizing deliciousness and comfort. Whether traveling with family, a partner, or alone, they seek the tranquil happiness of a relaxing time in a comfortable space with good food, rather than the sense of accomplishment or fulfillment that comes from a busy schedule. This is what they desire.
Perfect for such discerning adults is "SHISHI-IWA-HOUSE KARUIZAWA." While Karuizawa might seem like a thoroughly explored, premier tourist resort, it's an area worth watching as conceptual accommodations are beginning to gain traction once again.
Shishiiwa House Karuizawa is about a 15-minute drive from Karuizawa Station. Located in the Sengataki area, past Nakakaruizawa and Hoshino areas. This unique, secluded hotel is comprised of three buildings designed by Pritzker Prize-winning, world-renowned architects. The first building (No. 1), opened in 2019, and the second (No. 2), opened in 2022, were designed by Shigeru Ban. The third building (No. 3), which opened in June 2023, was designed by Ryue Nishizawa. I had the pleasure of staying in No. 3 this time.
No. 3, designed by Nishizawa, is a wooden structure emphasizing transparency and openness. It efficiently utilizes the site with a two-story structure, incorporating an homage to traditional Japanese architecture by connecting the interior and exterior with verandas, valuing the concept of "Ma" (space/interval). Walking along the veranda, the next scene gradually unfolds. This scene presents a contrast between a meticulously designed beautiful Japanese garden and an untouched, natural forest. The delicate spatial design is breathtaking. The interior uses cypress, while the exterior uses cedar. The interior, crafted with high-quality cypress from Gifu Prefecture, envelops you in a sense of security derived from the durability and functionality inherent in ancient Japanese structures like temples and castles, along with its clear, gentle aroma. Being at Shishiiwa House, you can intuitively feel the natural surroundings, which is a testament to the meticulously calculated design by Nishizawa.
The interior is also furnished with carefully selected furniture and art, including Japanese antiques, as well as masterpieces by Pierre Jeanneret and Charles & Ray Eames. Prints by Utagawa Hiroshige and ukiyo-e by other renowned artists adorn the walls.
There are a total of 11 rooms. Ten rooms, including tatami suites and superior Western-style rooms, are in the main building, with one villa located separately. I stayed in a Western-style room. The rooms feature three-sided or four-sided windows, allowing ample natural light to flood in. The room amenities are minimal: no TV, no minibar, only an air conditioner. The large windows offer a close connection to the surrounding trees, birds, and insects, and the abundant sunlight blurs the boundaries between the room and the outdoors, allowing you to feel at one with nature. The sense of openness was so profound that I found myself spending time in the room without any clothes on.
The private bath (bathhouse) is also made of cypress. Surrounded by the garden's greenery and enveloped in the scent of cypress, soaking in the bath with your legs stretched out is the epitome of luxury. There is also a room called the wellness room, perfect for relaxing after a bath, for evening stretches, or for morning yoga and meditation, as well as a tea house. The morning tea is simply exquisite and elegant.
Both dinner and breakfast are served in the communal dining area of No. 2, "SHOLA." It's a space with a strong sense of openness to nature, allowing you to fully appreciate the changing expressions of the outdoors, whether it's bright sunshine or gentle rain.
Dinner is prepared by Chef Masashi Okamoto. He showcases the potential of powerful ingredients, meticulously cultivated by local producers, with minimal waste yet abundant creativity. Particularly noteworthy was the main dish of the day, "Sanadamaru." Sanadamaru is a premium local chicken from Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture, a crossbreed of a native chicken and a broiler. The Sanadamaru, smoked with cypress wood, offered an incredible depth of flavor, rich fat, and a texture that was more "buriburi" (firmly elastic) than "puripuri" (springy). It had a contradictory quality: resisting slightly upon the first bite, yet yielding tenderly with a bit more pressure. I highly recommend savoring it with the owner's carefully selected wines.
After dinner, you can enjoy carefully selected, rare whiskies at the adjacent bar. Comparing the aromas and flavors—woody, sweet, refreshing, spicy—can be an engaging experience for both whisky aficionados and novices alike, drawing you into a delightful exploration.
To describe the architectural beauty of Shishiiwa House Karuizawa as "creative," its integration with nature as "retreat," or its connection with local producers as "farm-to-table" would inevitably sound cliché. However, away from the hustle and bustle of daily life, you can fully embrace and feel the blessings of nature—the scent of trees, the sounds of birds and insects, the patter of rain, the profound silence—within a space where every detail has been meticulously calculated for functional beauty. This is the true essence of Shishiiwa House Karuizawa. Why not visit Shishiiwa House Karuizawa this summer, or indeed in any season, to experience its ever-changing expressions?
SHISHI-IWA-HOUSE KARUIZAWA No.3
Location | 2147-40 Nagakura, Karuizawa-machi, Kitasaku-gun, Nagano Prefecture
