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May 29, 2019
Exploring Western Australia by Self-Drive (Part 1) | TRAVEL
TRAVEL | A World of Everyday Miracles by Self-Drive
Part 1: From Perth to the Western Australian Countryside.
And On to Margaret River, the Land of Premium Wines
Western Australia boasts an area roughly one-third the size of the vast Australian continent. Its coastline, facing the Indian Ocean, stretches with sapphire blue seas and porcelain white beaches, while inland lies a primal, dynamic landscape. Among Australia's nature-rich regions, this state is where one can most keenly feel the Earth's energy. It's a vast western land where unique flora and fauna thrive vibrantly, and humans live in harmony with nature, respecting it. For those seeking to explore its charms, self-drive is recommended for its ease of movement. Western Australia is also known as "The home of the road trip," where following the roads can easily lead you to wine regions, world-acclaimed beaches, and other magnificent natural wonders and beautiful landscapes. The wide-open highways and wild, untamed roads stretching into the majestic nature offer a particularly special driving environment for car enthusiasts. Direct ANA flights from Narita to Perth, the gateway to this state, have been operating daily since September 1st, coinciding with the season for wildflowers. Why not take this opportunity to make the state capital, Perth—also called "the most beautiful city in the world"—your base, and experience the true face of the Australian continent while driving through its vast, wild landscapes?
Text by MAKIGUCHI June
To the Gateway of Western Australia, "The Most Beautiful City in the World"
People in Western Australia, who coexist with its untouched, majestic nature, often say, “Just another day in WA.” What is breathtakingly beautiful scenery to a traveler is simply a wonderful everyday life to them. When visiting the azure, transparent sea with locals, watching the fiery sunset sink into the earth, or seeing a lake shimmer in pink, if you exclaim, “Wonderful!”, they will smile quietly, but with great pride, and say, “We are fortunate.” Even if it's their everyday life, they smile contentedly because they know it is an expression of unparalleled miracles. It's likely this wonderful everyday life that allows them to encounter warm smiles and hospitality wherever they go. Day by day, and with each new charm of WA that you discover without ever tiring of it, you become convinced that without visiting this state, one cannot truly understand the allure of Australia.
The state capital, Perth, serves as the base for traveling in this western region. Also known as the "Sunny capital city" due to its high number of sunny days and warm climate, this city is also known as "the most beautiful city in the world" and is a coveted destination for Australians.
©Tourism Australia
©Botanic Gardens & Parks Authority
The city, embraced by the Swan River flowing through its center and Kings Park, spanning approximately 400 hectares, is a magnificent harmony of people and abundant nature. In September, welcoming spring, the Wildflower Festival is held annually, attracting many visitors.
Perhaps the relaxing mood of the city has a positive influence on people's hearts. The citizens are truly cheerful and friendly. It is a truly comfortable city. In the cityscape, where 19th-century colonial buildings, modern architecture, and contemporary art coexist, it's pleasant to enjoy dining and shopping in a relaxed atmosphere. Utilizing the free bus service "CAT" that runs throughout the city area is also recommended.
In the suburbs lie world-class wine regions such as Swan Valley and Margaret River, and naturally, the food and wine culture is vibrant. For a taste of the international cafe and restaurant culture that reflects this immigrant nation in a short time, the customizable foodie tour "Eat The Street Walking Tours" is perfect for exploring popular spots in the city. First, you'll want to soothe the fatigue from your long flight and gather energy for your self-drive journey.
To enjoy nature within the city, walking along the beautiful riverbanks or admiring the seasonal flowers in Kings Park is recommended, but since you've come this far, we hope you'll venture out to the suburbs as well. A must-add to your "to-do" list is a short trip to Rottnest Island. Located 19 km off the coast of Perth, it's a paradise for wild flora and fauna. As vehicle access is restricted for nature conservation, bicycles are the primary mode of transport for tourists. At "Pedal & Flipper," near the port, you can rent bicycles and beach towels, use clean restrooms and showers, purchase drinks and snacks, and store your luggage, so be sure to stop by before exploring the island.
Although the island is compact with a circumference of about 40 km, there are plenty of attractions. Rottnest Island, with its stunning azure seas and white sandy beaches, boasts 63 beautiful bays and 20 beaches, and many Perth residents visit for snorkeling and swimming.
The rich waters are home to a diverse array of tropical fish, dolphins, and sea lions, while quokkas, a marsupial found only on this island, greet you in the hills. These creatures, with their cute smiles, have captivated celebrities including Chris Hemsworth.
Quokkas, now global idols on Instagram, inhabit every corner of the island. Many tourists try to take a "quokka selfie" with them while resting their feet, but they approach without fear, capturing everyone's hearts. Under the blue sky, searching for quokkas, playing with them, and relaxing on the beach, a day passes in the blink of an eye. To observe more of these nocturnal creatures, we highly recommend staying overnight on the island. (As quokkas are wild animals, no matter how friendly they seem, feeding or touching them is strictly prohibited!)
It takes only about 1.5 hours by ferry from central Perth to Rottnest Island. However, we recommend taking a high-speed boat from the port town of Fremantle, located about 20 km west of the city center (about a 30-minute train ride). From here, you can reach the island in just 30 minutes, and you can also explore Fremantle, a popular tourist destination, making it a win-win situation.
Fremantle, affectionately called "FREO" by locals, derives its name from Captain James Fremantle of the British Navy, who made the colonial declaration here in 1829. Buildings from that era, such as the Town Hall and the former Esplanade Hotel in colonial prison style, still remain and serve as landmarks, or are used as popular shops and restaurants, retaining a strong 19th-century atmosphere. The town itself is like a living museum. It gained popularity as a tourist destination after gaining attention in the 1986 yacht race, the America's Cup. Every weekend (Friday, Saturday, Sunday) and on public holidays, the Fremantle Markets, which have been held since 1897, are bustling with locals and tourists. Restaurants line the beach, and in the evenings, you can see people holding drinks and waiting for the sunset.
Let's Go: To the Land of Premium Wines by Self-Drive
After enjoying your stay in Perth, it's time to embark on your self-drive journey. For OPENERS readers with a discerning palate, the first destination should be the Margaret River region, one of Australia's premier premium wine-producing areas.
This area is about a 3-hour drive south from Perth. The first place to stop is Busselton, the largest town and gateway to the region. Beautiful beaches stretch for 30 km along Geographe Bay. Parks have been created along the beach, serving as bases for marine sports such as fishing, water skiing, snorkeling, and scuba diving. At the center of the leisure area is the Busselton Jetty. Built 150 years ago, it is the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, measuring 1.84 km. A tourist train runs on it, but you can also walk across. Depending on the season, you might be able to spot whales and dolphins swimming from the jetty. The underwater observatory, located 1.8 km from the shore, is also a must-see. Descending to the observation room at a depth of 8 meters, you can glimpse a paradise of colorful creatures living among artificial coral reefs and the jetty's pilings. The underwater scenery, which changes with the days and times, is mesmerizing. The observation room can also be booked for private use. Many locals hold weddings and parties here. It's the perfect place to stretch your legs after a long drive.
After leaving Busselton, it's time for the main reason to visit Margaret River: a winery tour. If you're visiting by self-drive, it's advisable to book a full-day or half-day tour when visiting wineries. "McLeod Tours," run by the local McLeod family, organizes tours according to guests' preferences. Of course, winery-only tours are also available. They offer pick-up and drop-off services from hotels in the area, as well as to Perth, and they have Japanese guides, making it especially recommended for those concerned about language barriers. Once you transfer to the tour vehicle and join the group, your journey begins.
The wines produced in this region account for only about 4% of Australia's total production. However, it accounts for over 30% of the country's highest-quality wines. There are over 120 wineries, including familiar brands for wine lovers such as Flinders Bay Wines, Flying Fish Cove, Evans & Tate, and Voyager Estate. About 100 of them have cellar doors offering tastings, wine pairings at restaurants, and activities where you can blend your own unique flavor. Some wineries can be booked through the "Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia" website. After checking what activities your desired wineries offer, you can ask your tour company to incorporate them into your itinerary.
For lunch, we highly recommend "Wills Domain." This award-winning winery boasts a restaurant overlooking a beautiful hill covered in grapevines, offering wine pairings that complement the superb environment. They serve dishes that brilliantly fuse local Australian ingredients with Japanese culinary elements, offering a unique dining experience. It is one of the "must-go" restaurants for foodies visiting this region. As it is a popular establishment, reservations are essential.
Beyond wineries, we also highly recommend visiting craft gin distilleries and craft beer breweries. "Margaret River Distilling Company," established in 2015, is a new distillery that has already gained significant popularity. It's part of the same group as the Great Southern Distilling Company, which produces "Limeburners," Western Australia's first single malt whisky, which explains its reputation. Their blend class, where you can create your own gin by freely combining various herbs and spices, is very popular. It's delightful to learn the art of blending and discover the charm of gin. After tasting and deliberating, you'll finally create your own unique bottle of gin, give it a name, apply a label, and seal the cork. Reflecting on your Western Australian journey while savoring your own special bottle back home is a truly sophisticated pleasure.
The brewery "Eagle Bay Brewing Co" is a family-run microbrewery. At their restaurant, overlooking farmland and bushland with the Indian Ocean in the distance, you can taste freshly brewed, ice-cold craft beers or quench your thirst with cider. Their fish and chips, fried in a batter made with beer, are also exquisite.
For dinner to cap off a wonderful day, head to "Yarri Restaurant & Bar." This establishment, a collaboration between the founders of the winery "Snake + Herring" and chef Aaron Carr, was born out of a passion for delicious food and fine wine. They offer meals that correspond to the six seasons traditionally recognized by Indigenous Australians. The cooking is kept simple to maximize the use of ethical and seasonal ingredients. Their strong connections with local food producers—farmers, grape growers, winemakers, fishermen, butchers, and cheesemakers—ensure a constant supply of fresh ingredients, making it a popular spot for foodies seeking the freshest dishes and wines. Reservations are, of course, essential. Dishes like freshly harvested vegetable platters and grilled lamb shoulder, made with intensely flavored, fresh ingredients, will allow you to experience the richness of Western Australia with all your senses.
Every November, a food event called "Margaret River Gourmet Escape" is held in this region. It's a feast featuring renowned chefs from both domestic and international culinary scenes, making it another excellent reason to visit.
©Margaret River Gourmet Escape
When visiting the Margaret River region, don't just explore the surface; delve into the Earth's interior. This area is dotted with numerous limestone caves. Inside Lake Cave, stalactites, crystalline formations of limestone, hang from the ceiling down to the surface of the subterranean lake, showcasing a natural beauty sculpted over hundreds and thousands of years. The illuminated formations, emerging from the darkness, are truly mystical.
The caves visited on the "Cape Cultural Tour" allow you to descend 45 meters underground through winding passages formed by stalactites. The interior of the cave is enveloped in an overwhelming silence, and standing there for a while, you can feel enveloped by the Earth's positive energy, which brings a sense of profound peace. This is truly a power spot where you can directly connect with the Earth. The guides are Indigenous people who own this land. During the tour, you can also learn about their culture and wisdom.
To enjoy the beautiful coastline that Western Australia boasts, consider joining a "Walk into Luxury" tour. These walking tours, ranging from one to six days, offer breathtaking scenery and a chance to fully immerse yourself in nature with knowledgeable guides.
©Jesse Desjardins
From September onwards, you can see wildflowers blooming along the coast and dolphins playing in the sea. From around June to November, there's also a chance for whale watching, so nature lovers should definitely take note.
You can also find shops selling meticulously crafted handmade products in this area. "Gabriel Chocolate," which sources high-quality cacao from around the world to create its products, and "Vasse Virgin Margaret River," which produces organic foods including extra virgin olive oil, as well as additive-free cosmetics like soaps and balms, are great places to find thoughtful "consumable" souvenirs.
Margaret River is full of attractions, and you'll want to plan for at least two nights and three days. While it's advisable to join a tour for wine tasting, try to incorporate self-driving for other days of your stay. Self-driving allows for spontaneous journeys, like lingering at a place you discover and love.
There are stunning beaches everywhere, such as "Surfers Point," which hosts world surfing competitions, and "Injidup Natural Spa," a natural pool-like formation. At certain times of day, you might even have them all to yourself. Don't forget to allow time to simply relax in places that feel good, without a rigid plan.
In the next installment, we'll explore the Outback from Perth to Esperance.
Tourism Australia:
https://www.australia.jp
Tourism Western Australia:
https://www.westernaustralia.com
Eat The Street Walking Tours:
https://eatthestreet.com.au/
Rottnest Island:
https://www.rottnestisland.com/
Pedal & Flipper:
https://www.rottnestisland.com/see-and-do/island-activities/Pedal%20and%20Flipper%20Activities
Fremantle:
https://www.fremantle.wa.gov.au/
Fremantle Markets:
https://www.fremantlemarkets.com.au/
Wills Domain:
https://willsdomain.com.au/
Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia:
https://www.ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au
Margaret River Distilling Company:
https://www.margaretriver.com/members/margaret-river-distilling-company/
Eagle Bay Brewing Co:
https://eaglebaybrewing.com.au/
McLeod Tours:
https://mcleodtours.com.au/about/
Yarri Restaurant & Bar:
https://yarri.com.au/
Lake Cave & Cave Works Eco Centre:
https://www.margaretriverattractions.com/
Cape Cultural Tour:
https://capeculturaltours.com.au/private-tours/
Gabriel Chocolate:
https://gabrielchocolate.com.au/
Vasse Virgin Margaret River:
https://vassevirgin.com.au/
Walk into Luxury:
https://www.walkintoluxury.com.au/
Margaret River Gourmet Escape:
http://www.gourmetescape.com.au/
Margaret River Drive Guide:
https://www.australia.com/ja-jp/places/wa/discovering-the-margaret-river-region.html