Champagne prices are soaring. It's quite a predicament, truly. But this isn't solely due to the weak yen. Demand for Champagne is rising globally. The balance between supply and demand is increasingly skewed. Amidst this, various sparkling wines, like Spain's Cava and Italy's Franciacorta, are now being introduced in Japan, as if to say, "There are other sparkling wines too." While some of these are indeed delicious enough to rival Champagne, Champagne is, after all, delicious. It's in a different league. I've recently come to believe they shouldn't even be compared.

Are you familiar with the Champagne brand "Nicolas Feuillatte"? Though it's the youngest maison in Champagne, founded in 1976, it boasts the number one sales in France and third worldwide.

I've often enjoyed this brand's Champagne during flights. I haven't confirmed if it's still offered post-COVID (my apologies!), but in the past, Finnair allowed passengers to purchase small bottles of Nicolas Feuillatte even in economy class. Since it was a purchase, I recall being able to ask the flight attendants for another glass without hesitation when I wanted a bit more. Nicolas Feuillatte has also been chosen by other airlines, such as Air France, demonstrating its track record as an in-flight Champagne.

Nicolas Feuillatte is also frequently chosen as the Champagne for hotel poolside bars. This is likely because the brand's character, which offers Champagne's exquisite taste in an unpretentious, casual manner, aligns well with such settings. The reason for its outstanding sales in France and globally is none other than its flexible provision of Champagne quality tailored to consumer needs. By creating products with lower price points for home consumption or proposing elegant art bottles for parties, it has captured the hearts of Champagne lovers worldwide with its clever ideas.

However, at this tasting event, I had to revise my perception of Nicolas Feuillatte in part. This brand is not just about casualness.

What surprised me most was the "Blanc de Blancs 2017." The 2017 vintage was marked by challenging weather for grapes in the Champagne region, but Chardonnay proved resilient. This cuvée, made from 100% Chardonnay, invites you into a world of sensory delight with its aromatic touch, much like a Junmai Daiginjo sake. Yet, its aroma never overwhelms the accompanying food.

The drinking experience is remarkably light, and the aroma elevates the ingredients like a third sauce, culminating in an exceptional culinary experience. This delightful sensation is undoubtedly on par with that of traditional Champagne houses. "Is this really Nicolas Feuillatte?" I suspect I wasn't the only one thinking that at the event. In fact, it was actively, wonderfully delicious!

The tasting event was held at "Togetsutei" in Meguro Gajoen, so naturally, the accompanying dishes were Japanese cuisine. The "Réserve Exclusive Rosé" created an outstanding marriage with the soup course. Rosé pairs well with dashi! This is likely due to the winemaking process, which involves fermenting not only the grape skins but also the stems, allowing it to harmonize beautifully with the soup's profound, umami-rich flavor.

While rosé pairing with dashi is a classic for Japanese cuisine and Champagne, the fact that Gajoen's exceptionally delicate dashi and Nicolas Feuillatte's rosé complemented each other so well truly speaks to the brand's capabilities, wouldn't you agree?

And finally, the "Palmes d'Or Brut 2008," a vintage aged for over a decade. Its ability to withstand such long aging is proof of the superior quality of the grapes, and thus, a direct reflection of the brand's prowess. It is this depth that allows the brand to create such diverse tastes and imbues even its casual offerings with a sense of refinement.

While Palmes d'Or comes with a higher price tag, this is only natural given that it uses a significant proportion of noble grapes from Grand Cru vineyards and is crafted over time. Like the prestige cuvées from other maisons, I believe Nicolas Feuillatte's prestige cuvée is something you should seize the rare opportunities in life to experience.

Given the quality of his winemaking, one might expect the brand's winemaker to be rather stern, but he's incredibly approachable! I suspect he could talk endlessly about wine if given the chance, but he's serious yet very down-to-earth. He mentioned, "I've visited Japan several times, and the teppanyaki presentation is amazing!" Perhaps it's precisely because he's so grounded that he understands the nuances of us, the general consumers.

My thinking evolved because the "Réserve Exclusive Brut," the centerpiece of the brand, strikes a perfect balance. It's right between the crispness of the Blanc de Blancs and the mellowness of the Rosé. The acidity is neither too strong nor too weak. It has body, but it's not heavy. It's the epitome of a Champagne that appeals to everyone. I thought, "Guillaume is truly capable," though I might have assumed that on my own.

Naturally, wine is made by people. And at every stage of production, people guide the taste. Therefore, who makes it is very important. In that sense, I want to continue drinking the Champagnes made by Guillaume.