Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "Drinking at Lunchtime"

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings

No. 41: "Drinking at Lunchtime"

One day, I decided to have lunch in Jimbocho and went into "Shinsekai Shokando." The food is good, the portions are generous, the seating is comfortable, and the prices are reasonable, so it's usually my go-to for lunch when I have business in Jimbocho. I ordered my usual noodle dish, and then I happened to look up and saw an elderly man with white hair. He was a neatly dressed man in a shirt and jacket. When I looked closer, he was eating Shanghai hairy crab while drinking Shaoxing wine. Seeing that, I thought, 'This is my ideal retirement.'

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "Drinking at Lunchtime"

In Japan, there's a concept that alcohol is for nighttime, or for holidays. Drinking delicious food and delicious sake on a weekday afternoon is somehow considered 'bad,' and those who do it often feel a sense of transgression.

But this is the Reiwa era. People go to the office at 9 AM, everyone works at their desks uniformly for eight hours, and then they're done. If not, they work overtime late into the night. That Showa-era way of working ended with the pandemic. It's now the norm to connect remotely from anywhere – home, a cafe, a hotel – and work online. We can enjoy each day without unnecessary constraints. So, why not break that old concept and drink alcohol from the afternoon?

Of course, this doesn't apply to people who get drunk at lunch before an important afternoon presentation. Adults with autonomy and responsibility should absolutely enjoy drinking at lunchtime. Since you don't have to worry about the smell if your afternoon work isn't face-to-face, and there are many benefits to drinking at lunchtime.
1. Restaurants that are expensive at night are often more affordable during the day.
2. Restaurants are less crowded than at night.
3. Fewer people get excessively drunk and bother others compared to nighttime.
4. Having a set end time prevents lingering.
5. If you drink less at night, the quality of your sleep improves.
6. Reducing nighttime alcohol intake allows your liver to rest during sleep.

As a reaction to remote work, opportunities for human connection are decreasing unless actively sought. When we had face-to-face meetings, we could gauge so much from the pace of conversation, facial expressions, and the overall atmosphere. However, online meetings can sometimes end up as meaningless sessions where participants simply report in turn. While remote work has brought efficiency, face-to-face interactions have become even more valuable.

Even in work-related contexts, as long as the other party is human, trust and empathy are crucial. Ultimately, it's the 'wet' relationships that matter. Alcohol facilitates the creation of these relationships more smoothly. I believe we should drink at lunchtime, talk openly, and foster broader and deeper connections.

■Tsurutake: 3-16-8 Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Open 12:00 PM-
Several years ago, while working in Shimbashi, I craved yakiniku for lunch and stumbled into this place. I went in expecting a yakiniku set meal, but there was nothing so simple; they went straight for the à la carte menu, even at lunchtime. At first, I thought I'd just have rice andホルモン (horumon - offal) to finish, but as I ate, I couldn't stop, and before I knew it, I was drinking alone. The meat quality here is high, it's affordable, and it's delicious. You can eat and drink properly within a two-hour window. The drinks aren't too strong, making it perfect for lunchtime. However, it does leave a smell, so depending on your afternoon schedule and who you're meeting, it might be best to avoid it. Also, it's now like a sacred spot for lunchtime drinking in Shimbashi, so reservations are essential.

■Toritake: 1-6-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Open 12:00 PM-
This is a renowned, long-established yakitori restaurant in Shibuya, needless to say. It's reassuring that they serve continuously from 12:00 PM. While you can have a yakitori donburi or oyakodon for lunch alone, you can also enjoy skewers with drinks. In fact, that's the main draw. The portions are large, the grilling is perfectly done, and like old-school yakitori places, they offer not only chicken but also eel, with a diverse menu that never gets boring. As expected of a famous establishment, it's always crowded, but the turnover is good, so there's no need to worry.

■Daitoryo: 6-10-14 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo. Open 10:00 AM-
A famous motsuyaki (grilled offal) restaurant in Ueno's Ameya Yokocho market. This place is always crowded, but it's perfect for building rapport with clients on the east side. Since they open at 10:00 AM, why not arrange to meet around 11:00 AM for a 'lunch meeting' over motsunikomi (stewed offal) and skewers with a glass of sour? It's a classic icebreaker to say, 'It's busy even from the morning,' making conversation flow easily. The atmosphere of the restaurant undoubtedly helps people relax and open up, so it might be ideal for important one-on-one business negotiations.

When you're happily tipsy from the afternoon, work becomes more enjoyable and productive. In an era where traditional 'meaningless' rules like office attendance, seniority, and lifetime employment are fading, let's embrace the motto of 'work enjoyably and essentially.' By skillfully incorporating alcohol, we can deliver sharp sales pitches, come up with creative ideas, and give lively presentations. This will not only lead to the successful execution of grand projects but also brighten the future of Japan. Or so I believe.

IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at age 30. He co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," with a friend from junior high school of 20 years, and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual bars.
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