Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: Nezu Edition
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March 23, 2020

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: Nezu Edition

Vol. 19: Nezu – A Town Packed with Charm and Sights

“To insist solely on the safety of the body, without questioning the life or death of the soul or spirit, is wrong.” – Yasutake Ijichi, board member of Sunshine Juice, Japan’s first cold-pressed juice specialty store, explores the diverse, human-centric contents of various towns, delving into their history, changes, customs, and culture, in stark contrast to the ultimate health of Sunshine Juice. In this 19th installment, we take a stroll through Nezu, a small town nestled at the foot of the University of Tokyo.

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi: A Cluster of Popular Spots Preserving Old-World Charm

In recent years, the area known as “Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi,” or “Yan-Nezu-Sen” for short, has gained immense popularity. Centered around shrines and temples like Nezu Shrine and Kan'ei-ji Temple, and with Yanaka Cemetery, the resting place of Yoshinobu Tokugawa, the last shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, and the renowned writer Natsume Soseki having lived here, the area boasts a rich cultural and historical significance. Its popularity likely stems from the fact that it suffered relatively little damage from wartime bombings and has not undergone extensive redevelopment, thus preserving its old townscape. Many traditional houses have been converted into charming cafes and雑貨屋 (zakka-ya, miscellaneous goods stores), including the kushiage (deep-fried skewers) restaurant Hantei, designated a Tangible Cultural Property.
Hantei
Yuu Cafe
Ringo-ya
Even so, many people are unsure about the exact boundaries of Yan-Nezu-Sen. When I invite friends to drink in Yan-Nezu-Sen, they usually ask, “Which train line should I take?” In my 20s, I only knew of Inamura Shozo (a patisserie) and Wolf's Head (accessories). Roughly speaking, Yan-Nezu-Sen is the area connecting four points: Nippori Station on the JR Yamanote Line, Uguisudani Station, and Sendagi Station and Nezu Station on the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line. It’s actually a very convenient location, accessible with a single train ride from central Tokyo.
Features on Yan-Nezu-Sen regularly appear in magazines and online. A friend who runs a travel agency for wealthy foreigners also says that Yan-Nezu-Sen is as popular as Asakusa and Shinjuku. Why might this be? For example, when we visit Paris for the first time, we’ll likely see the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe. But on subsequent visits, we might want to “dig deeper” into more local spots. Perhaps similarly, after visiting Tokyo Tower or Senso-ji Temple upon arriving in Tokyo, the next step… might be Yan-Nezu-Sen. In that sense, choosing Yan-Nezu-Sen, which even many Tokyoites are surprisingly unfamiliar with, feels like the right choice.
This time, I want to explore “Nezu,” within Yan-Nezu-Sen. This is because the azalea festival is about to begin at Nezu Shrine, marking the most beautiful time of year.

While azaleas may not receive as much attention as cherry blossoms or autumn leaves, do not underestimate them. A full bloom of azaleas is just as breathtakingly beautiful.

The azaleas, numbering around 3,000 plants of approximately 100 varieties, are typically in full bloom within the roughly 2,000-tsubo (approx. 6,600 sqm) grounds during Golden Week. It’s a wonderful way to feel the arrival of early summer while enjoying the blooming azaleas.

Due to the impact of the coronavirus, related events appear to be canceled, but it is scheduled to be held from April 4th to May 6th this year.
*Added March 26, 2020: Due to the spread of COVID-19, the “51st Bunkyo Azalea Festival” has been canceled.
After admiring the azaleas at Nezu Shrine, I’d like to take a break with some anmitsu. Naturally, that’s the mood.
Among Nezu’s many Japanese confectioneries and sweet shops, the most famous is Imogen. Founded in 1912 (Taisho 1).

It’s called Imogen because it was originally an芋屋 (imo-ya, sweet potato shop) started by Jinzo-san. The cozy interior is often full.

The reason to visit despite this is the gentle demeanor of the elderly proprietress and the delicate flavors.
Imogen offers a menu item called “Avec Anmitsu,” so if it’s your first time, this is what you should try.
The anmitsu, topped with vanilla and azuki bean ice cream, is not too rich and refreshingly light. The ice cream monaka and Osaka-yaki (a type of grilled sweet bun) are also available for takeout at a reasonable 120 yen. In Nezu, the connection from Nezu Shrine to Imogen is a winning formula, more solid than the battery combination of Shiozaki and Kanemoto, or Asao and Iwase.
Incidentally, when you visit Imogen, you’ll notice a striking shop diagonally across the street, its entire exterior covered in ivy.
This is Le Coussinet, a Western confectionery shop open only on weekends. Their puddings and cream puffs, made with carefully selected ingredients and not overly sweet, are popular and reasonably priced.

The ivy covering this shop is wisteria. The wisteria blooms around the same time as the azalea festival. It’s a good idea to enjoy a treat at Imogen and then buy some souvenirs from Le Coussinet to take home.
Now, Yanaka has over 20,000 residents across its five districts (1-chome to 5-chome), and Ueno has about 8,500 residents across its seven districts (1-chome to 7-chome). In contrast, Nezu is a very small town with only two districts, Nishi (west) 1-chome and Higashi (east) 2-chome, totaling just 6,500 residents. Despite its size, Nezu surprisingly has many excellent soba noodle restaurants.
These include Nezu Sōkian, which operates strictly by reservation only and offers a course menu; Takajō, which opens at 7:30 AM(Note: Currently temporarily closed)and Sōshin, founded in 2015 by a chef who trained at Ikenohata Yabu and Kanda Matsuya. Yoshibou Rin, located at the intersection near the entrance of Nezu Shrine, is another one.
Opened in 2003, its elegant appearance blends seamlessly with the downtown atmosphere, offering a calming ambiance. The lively atmosphere inside is invigorating. The freshly milled soba noodles, ground with a stone mill, are superb in flavor, texture, and smoothness. The rich, white soba-yu (buckwheat water) is also deeply satisfying. You’ll leave with a profound sense of contentment, thinking, “Ah, I haven’t had soba like this in ages.” You might even consider a trip to Nezu solely for the purpose of indulging in soba from morning till night.
Of course, Nezu also boasts many atmospheric izakayas (Japanese pubs). Among them, Kuraya, located in a back alley near the station, is bustling every day. The first floor has counter and table seating, while the second floor offers tatami seating, creating a comforting, classic izakaya setting. The walls are densely covered with colorful menu slips, enticing patrons to order more drinks.
The fried dishes include not only chicken and cartilage but also ayu (sweetfish) and dojou (loach), and even whale, which heightens anticipation. The signature dish at Kuraya is the mackerel sushi roll (saba no bōzushi). Searching for “Kuraya” on your smartphone will flood the screen with images of this dish. And for good reason: its photogenic sheen and gloss, the refined fat from the high-quality mackerel, the way it melts in your mouth, the guilt-free richness, and the exquisite curing. The sheer bliss of washing it down with sake is unparalleled. Apologies to those who dislike oily fish. It’s a moment when you’re glad you like it. Bertrand Russell, in his philosophy of happiness, stated something to the effect that ‘the more things you like, the more opportunities for happiness you have,’ and I wholeheartedly agree.
Nezu, a small town at the doorstep of the University of Tokyo, Japan’s premier academic institution, is filled with charms that even Tokyoites are surprisingly unaware of. It’s a town where its appeal was discovered not by those who were born and raised in Tokyo and live there, but by an external third party – a case of the light being hidden under the bushel. This small town has so many sights to see, and I want to uncover more.
Nezu Shrine
Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3822-0753

Imogen
Address: 2-30-4 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3821-5530

Yoshibou Rin
Address: 1F, Kōpō Yoshida, 2-36-1 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3823-8454

Kuraya
Address: 2-18-2 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3821-2901
IJICHI Yasutake
Representative Director, Sunshine Juice Inc. Born in Tokyo in 1982. While studying at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. He then moved to a PR firm, where he engaged in planning and management of marketing, communication, and branding from a PR perspective. He resigned at the age of 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school, he founded Sunshine Juice, Japan’s first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and currently holds his position. Favorite foods include fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). Favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. Favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman

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