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May 17, 2024
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "Deliciousness is a Given; What Matters is the 'Interim' and 'Distance' – Places You'll Want to Visit Alone"
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings
Part 53: "Deliciousness is a Given; What Matters is the 'Interim' and 'Distance' – Places You'll Want to Visit Alone"
Some people who love dining out can't bring themselves to do it alone. I've heard that for them, it's only possible at fast-food places like beef bowl joints or standing soba shops, and they can't even bring themselves to enter ramen or pasta restaurants. Yet, they claim to love delicious food. I suspect, perhaps, that while they enjoy good food and exploring new places, it's all tied to the experience of chatting with others or drinking with a group. They don't seem to be the type to seek out and dine at places alone purely for the sake of deliciousness.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
Embracing Solitude: Staying True to Oneself
Higashi-Nakano: Kurikara
I enjoy lively gatherings with friends, intimate conversations with a partner, and quiet, solitary moments at my own pace. I believe the meals I have today become a part of my future self—not just in terms of the nutrients that build my body, but also as knowledge and experiences that shape my thoughts and values. I was once told by a senior colleague that considering one eats about 1,000 meals a year, and a finite number over a lifetime, it's a shame to waste even a single meal. That resonated deeply with me, and I feel it's important not to neglect the act of eating, even when dining alone.
Shinjuku Sanchome: Kamba
Until I was nearly 30, I had never eaten a convenience store bento. I still don't particularly favor them, but back then, I heard that convenience store bentos, costing around 500 yen, contained many additives like preservatives and weren't very tasty. I figured it was better to spend 100 yen on a cup of ramen that I found delicious. Even now, I don't eat convenience store bentos, even when I'm short on time, nor do I use delivery services. No matter how popular a restaurant is, its delivery food doesn't taste as good as when eaten at the establishment. It's not just about the food being cold or tough; it's also the cheap packaging or the lack of ambiance. To put it bluntly, it feels like I'm just eating 'feed' to quickly fill my stomach and gain energy. I truly believe that meals are not just about nutrient intake or solely about taste; they are experiences to be savored with all five senses, across time and space.
Asakusabashi: Daikichi
Finding a place that's enjoyable to visit alone can be quite challenging. When a middle-aged man over 40 decides to go out for a meal alone, it often leads to choices like neighborhood Chinese diners or offal grills, sometimes to the point of monotony. When dining out frequently for work or with family is the norm, a solo meal becomes a precious opportunity. After visiting many places, I've come to realize that the most crucial element for a place enjoyable alone isn't the taste or the price, but the 'interim' and 'distance.' Sometimes, a place that's delicious and comfortable with company might feel less so when you're by yourself. I don't want a place where the owner constantly chats when I'm tired and just want to zone out, but on the other hand, eating in complete silence can also feel lonely. Conversely, there are times when I want to simply devour delicious food without any distractions, precisely because I'm alone. Whether it's at the end of a fulfilling day after a major presentation or on a rare quiet evening between consecutive business dinners, I want to fully enjoy myself at a place that feels comfortable, staying true to my mood and what my body craves.
■Ata: 2-5 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Sato Estate Building 1F
Most people are familiar with Ata in Daikanyama. The reason I'm bringing it up now is that it's also highly recommended for solo dining. While many have likely visited with friends or partners, perhaps fewer have considered going alone. Yet, upon reflection, it possesses all the ideal elements for a solo visit. Imagine sitting at the counter, watching the chef's dynamic culinary performance, sipping on sparkling wine or a glass of wine, and enjoying hearty seafood dishes, before finishing with high-quality meat. And it's open until 2:00 AM. Can you think of many other places like it?
Most people are familiar with Ata in Daikanyama. The reason I'm bringing it up now is that it's also highly recommended for solo dining. While many have likely visited with friends or partners, perhaps fewer have considered going alone. Yet, upon reflection, it possesses all the ideal elements for a solo visit. Imagine sitting at the counter, watching the chef's dynamic culinary performance, sipping on sparkling wine or a glass of wine, and enjoying hearty seafood dishes, before finishing with high-quality meat. And it's open until 2:00 AM. Can you think of many other places like it?
■Chinmi-tei: 3-11-6 Nishi-Ogikubo, Suginami-ku, Tokyo
One of Tokyo's premier Taiwanese restaurants, and arguably the most famous in Nishi-Ogikubo. Nishi-Ogikubo itself is a charming, nostalgic town that's often featured in media. The restaurant is compact and always bustling. I still don't know where the restroom is, and people toss their cigarette butts on the floor. The red tables add to the atmosphere, creating a quintessential Showa-era bar feel. It's a deeply flavorful establishment with immense cultural depth, perfect for an adult's solo drink, where you can savor various pork parts like trotters and tongue alongside beer or Shaoxing wine—a place that caters to those who know their yakitori, offal, and neighborhood Chinese cuisine.
One of Tokyo's premier Taiwanese restaurants, and arguably the most famous in Nishi-Ogikubo. Nishi-Ogikubo itself is a charming, nostalgic town that's often featured in media. The restaurant is compact and always bustling. I still don't know where the restroom is, and people toss their cigarette butts on the floor. The red tables add to the atmosphere, creating a quintessential Showa-era bar feel. It's a deeply flavorful establishment with immense cultural depth, perfect for an adult's solo drink, where you can savor various pork parts like trotters and tongue alongside beer or Shaoxing wine—a place that caters to those who know their yakitori, offal, and neighborhood Chinese cuisine.
■Sugita: 3-8-3 Kotobuki, Taito-ku, Tokyo
A tonkatsu restaurant where you can also drink. For some reason, I'm perceived as a huge tonkatsu enthusiast (though I do like it), and the aforementioned senior colleague recommended Sugita as one of the best tonkatsu places in Tokyo. Tonkatsu usually makes me want to eat a hearty bowl of rice, but what's great about Sugita is that the rice and tonjiru (pork miso soup) are served separately. Their other menu items are also exceptionally delicious. And the cleanliness of the kitchen is remarkable. First, have you ever seen such a beautiful omelet? Another respected senior colleague is also hooked on their omelet. And after the omelet, comes the tonkatsu. The meat is tender and juicy with a crispy, thin coating, yet not greasy. Once you've enjoyed the tonkatsu, on subsequent visits, you might opt for the shrimp fry—which, despite its hearty appearance, shines with delicate flavor—or perhaps the oyster fry in winter.
A tonkatsu restaurant where you can also drink. For some reason, I'm perceived as a huge tonkatsu enthusiast (though I do like it), and the aforementioned senior colleague recommended Sugita as one of the best tonkatsu places in Tokyo. Tonkatsu usually makes me want to eat a hearty bowl of rice, but what's great about Sugita is that the rice and tonjiru (pork miso soup) are served separately. Their other menu items are also exceptionally delicious. And the cleanliness of the kitchen is remarkable. First, have you ever seen such a beautiful omelet? Another respected senior colleague is also hooked on their omelet. And after the omelet, comes the tonkatsu. The meat is tender and juicy with a crispy, thin coating, yet not greasy. Once you've enjoyed the tonkatsu, on subsequent visits, you might opt for the shrimp fry—which, despite its hearty appearance, shines with delicate flavor—or perhaps the oyster fry in winter.
■Paseri: Megurod B1F, 2-26-5 Kami-Osaki, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
I have a deep affection for San Felista and Megurod in Meguro, known for their exceptional consistency. This is located in the B1 of Megurod. I'm told it's the second oldest establishment in Megurod, celebrating its 26th year this year. The unpretentious, friendly owner prepares classic ingredients simply, yet with a delightful subtle twist that makes this Italian restaurant special. After enjoying a salad, grilled vegetables, or carpaccio, you move on to pasta. Open until midnight or 1 AM, and situated in an area with many eateries, it's conveniently easy to walk in even without a reservation. If it were closer to my workplace or home, I'd undoubtedly be a regular.
I have a deep affection for San Felista and Megurod in Meguro, known for their exceptional consistency. This is located in the B1 of Megurod. I'm told it's the second oldest establishment in Megurod, celebrating its 26th year this year. The unpretentious, friendly owner prepares classic ingredients simply, yet with a delightful subtle twist that makes this Italian restaurant special. After enjoying a salad, grilled vegetables, or carpaccio, you move on to pasta. Open until midnight or 1 AM, and situated in an area with many eateries, it's conveniently easy to walk in even without a reservation. If it were closer to my workplace or home, I'd undoubtedly be a regular.
IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While studying at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner before leaving at age 30. With a friend from junior high school, whom he has known for 20 years, he co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," serving as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and sukiyaki (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His preferred places are traditional coffee shops and casual bars.
Instagram:ijichiman
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While studying at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner before leaving at age 30. With a friend from junior high school, whom he has known for 20 years, he co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," serving as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and sukiyaki (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His preferred places are traditional coffee shops and casual bars.
Instagram:ijichiman