Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: Gotanda Edition

The 24th Installment: Gotanda, Where Sacred and Sensual Collide

“To insist solely on the safety and security of the physical body, without questioning the life or death of the soul or spirit, is misguided (Yukio Mishima).” In this serialized series, Yasutake Ijichi, a board member of Japan’s first cold-pressed juice specialty store, Sunshine Juice, delves into the raw, human elements of various neighborhoods, exploring their history, evolution, customs, and culture, in stark contrast to the ultimate healthfulness of Sunshine Juice. For the 24th installment, he navigates Gotanda, a district that offers multifaceted enjoyment depending on the location and scene.

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

A Lush Oasis in the City, Offering Seasonal Natural Beauty

There is an area known as the Jōnan Gozan, comprising Shimazu-yama, Goten-yama, Yatsu-yama, Hafura-yama, and Ikeda-yama. These are among Gotanda’s most prestigious residential areas. Among them, the Ikeda-yama area, situated on a hill reached by walking up the cherry blossom-lined street from the east exit of Gotanda Station, is known as the pinnacle.

Nemunoki Garden
Nemunoki Garden

Winding through the stately mansions and embassies, one finds the “Nemunoki Garden,” the former estate of Empress Michiko’s family, and “Ikeda-yama Park,” developed by Shinagawa City on the site of the former secondary residence of the Okayama Domain's Ikeda clan. Ikeda-yama Park, with its plum blossoms, camellias, and azaleas in spring, lush greenery in summer, and autumn foliage, is more of a garden than a park, offering different expressions with each season. It can be called Gotanda’s noble, “sacred” elevated district.

On the other hand, at the foot of this sacred hill lies the “living,” or perhaps “sexual,” Gotanda. This is likely the area most people associate with the name Gotanda. When I knew little about Gotanda, I frankly even considered it a mecca for the sex industry. I had frequented places like “Motsuyaki Ban” and “Tokyo Oyster Bar” since I was young, but going to Gotanda alone felt somewhat embarrassing to tell my girlfriend or wife; it had that strong, risqué image.

Motsuyaki Ban
Tokyo Oyster Bar

The image Gotanda acquired stemmed from the discovery of hot springs in the Taisho era, leading to the establishment of numerous lodging facilities. In parallel with the development of neighboring Osaki as an industrial zone, Gotanda flourished as a pleasure district for workers seeking relaxation. Its remnants can still be found in various places today, with free information centers and love hotels scattered throughout. Walking alone as a man, one is often approached by shady touts.

On the west side of Gotanda, along the Meguro River, stands a building known as “Gotanda Hills.” When a friend first invited me, I harbored suspicions due to the aforementioned image and felt a sense of aversion, thinking it was a disreputable establishment. However, its reality turned out to be a place that preserves its traditional flavors. While its official name is apparently “River Light Building,” its neon sign reads “Niko Niko Town,” indicating it’s a playground for adults where smiles abound. Floors above the third are business hotels, and the basement and first two floors house snack bars and eateries. Though broadly categorized as eateries, “small restaurants” or “Japanese haute cuisine” might be more accurate descriptions. Many popular establishments that impress gourmands are lined up here. The highly sought-after “Shokudo Todaka,” known for its difficulty in securing reservations, is a prime example.

River Light Building (commonly known as Gotanda Hills)

“Tsutsui,” hailed as Japan’s best standing sushi bar, is also located in Gotanda Hills. This renowned establishment operated under the overpass for 27 years before being forced to temporarily close due to redevelopment, a move that drew widespread regret. The voices lamenting its closure were incessant, leading to its revival in 2018. Being a standing sushi bar, it’s easy to visit alone, perfect for a second stop or a late-night meal. You write down what you want to eat and order, and the chefs prepare it right in front of you. The oily fish and shellfish are exceptionally delicious. The interior is clean and inviting, attracting many female customers. Despite being a standing bar, every aspect of the service is meticulous and attentive. Even when full from eating and drinking, the prices are unbelievably reasonable, making it a must-visit spot when in Gotanda.

Gotanda is also increasingly being chosen by IT ventures as a startup hub, with some parts even being referred to as “Gotanda Valley.” Freee, the accounting software company, still has its headquarters in Gotanda, and while KARTE, the web customer service tool, has since moved to GINZA SIX, its founding location was Gotanda. Furthermore, families with young children might visit the “Akachan Honpo” in TOC. Consequently, Gotanda is no longer just a place for nightlife; it’s a city increasingly visited for business and family outings during the day.

So, how to enjoy Gotanda during the day? You might leisurely savor the dark roast coffee at “Toujours Débuté” near the station. It’s a renowned establishment that any coffee lover would know. It’s perfect for those moments when you’re burdened with difficult, heavy tasks or an overwhelming workload, and need a brief escape to calm your mind.

Toujours Débuté
Bianco

“Bianco” on the west side is also a pleasant place to relax. Alternatively, you could relieve stress by indulging in a hearty meal at “Printemps,” located beyond the entertainment district on the east side. It’s so vintage that, regrettably, it might be unclear if it’s open upon first glance. However, it’s a quintessential kissaten, offering a full lineup of authentic cafe fare such as pilaf, omurice, and spaghetti (definitely not pasta). For hearty eaters, there might be times when you crave a Napolitan. I highly recommend visiting.

Even so, on weekday afternoons, time is scarce. In such cases, head under the train tracks. There’s “Oniyamma,” famed as Japan’s best standing udon shop. Or, “Kimihan” for niboshi (dried sardine) chuka soba. I love chuka soba. And I love niboshi ramen too. While I enjoy rich niboshi ramen like “Nagi,” Kimihan’s version retains the unique aroma and richness of niboshi without any bitterness or heaviness. The first time I tried it was late at night, after eating meat, having sushi at Tsutsui, and drinking and singing upstairs at Tsutsui. Even in that state, it flowed smoothly down my esophagus and settled comfortably in my stomach. And the next morning, I felt refreshed without any heaviness. Since then, I’ve stopped by not only at night but also during the day.

Kimihan
Oniyamma

The place where I ate meat that time was “Torikuchi.” The yakitori prepared by the master chef, who honed his skills at Toriyoshi in Nakameguro, is exquisite. The omakase course for ¥5,800 (though a ¥3,800 option is apparently available) offers a high degree of consistency and reliability. Torikuchi is part of the Soregashi group, which I also featured in my Ebisu review. Taste, price, service… everything that customers take for granted is present and more, coupled with exceptional cleanliness and hospitality. It’s so meticulously maintained that even if one were to trace every corner of the interior with a pinky finger, like a nagging mother-in-law, one would likely not find a speck of dust.

Soregashi has several other establishments in Gotanda, including “Wagyu Soregashi” and “Tori Ryori Soregashi,” all of which are excellent. However, Torikuchi is the culmination of the owner’s long-held desire to open a yakitori restaurant. The sake, the meat, and their pairings are exquisite, and the appetizers, palate cleansers, and final dessert all showcase remarkable skill and dedication. The atmosphere strikes a perfect balance between casual and refined. It’s a place I always find myself returning to for a night out in Gotanda.

Gotanda is where “sacred” and “sensual,” seemingly opposing forces, coexist. The charm of Gotanda lies in its ability to provide a full experience of “life” from various perspectives—the heights and the depths, day and night, depending on the place and the scene. It feels like a city that can satisfy both overt ambitions and desires, as well as those that are latently held.

Ikeda-yama Park
Address: 5-4-35 Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3447-4676

Tsutsui
Address: River Light Building, 1-9-3 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-6417-3564

Printemps
Address: 1-24-1 Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3449-6645

Kimihan
Address: 2-1-1 Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3491-2005

Torikuchi
Address: 2-28-10 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 050-5595-4868

IJICHI Yasutake
Executive Vice President, Sunshine Juice Inc.
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. He then transferred to a PR firm, where he focused on planning and managing marketing, communication, and branding initiatives from a PR perspective. He resigned at age 30 and co-founded Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, with his friend of 20 years, the representative director. He currently serves as Executive Vice President. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and popular izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman

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