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June 5, 2019
Serialized Essays | Musings of #ijichiman, Part 6: "Akasaka, a Glamorous Town That Once Adorned the Bubble Era"
Serialized Essays | Musings of #ijichiman
Part 6: "Akasaka, a Glamorous Town That Once Adorned the Bubble Era"
"To insist solely on the safety and security of the physical body, without questioning the life or death of the soul or spirit, is wrong (Yukio Mishima)" — In this series by Yasutake Ijichi, a board member of "Sunshine Juice," Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, he delves into the various human and earthy aspects of the town, contrasting them with the ultimate healthfulness of Sunshine Juice, exploring its history, changes, customs, and culture. Part 6 introduces Akasaka, a town lined with long-established Japanese restaurants, eateries, and high-class hotels.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
A Luxurious Entertainment District Reborn as a Business Hub
When I was a child, I used to imagine that as adults, it would be a set routine to have dinner at a high-rise hotel restaurant with a panoramic night view on Christmas or birthdays, and to receive accessories in a pale blue box as a gift for one's lover.
That high-rise hotel was likely, and quite naturally, the "Akasaka Prince Hotel," or "Akka Puri." Akka Puri was undeniably synonymous with the bubble era, and Akasaka was its symbol.
Even for our generation, who didn't experience the bubble, when we had a little "extra cash" in our 20s, we'd have parties at Akka Puri to get a taste of that bubble-like feeling. However, Akka Puri closed its doors in 2011. Today, its former site has been transformed into "Tokyo Garden Terrace Kioicho," a massive complex integrating offices, hotels, residences, and dining.
It is said that at its peak, there were over 50 traditional Japanese restaurants in Akasaka that once served as the stage for "restaurant politics" among influential figures in politics and business. However, in recent years, long-established establishments like "Kōetsu" and "Kinryū," names everyone has heard, have closed, leaving only about four or five. Yet, within Akasaka, the "Hotel New Otani" continues to reign with an undeniable presence.
This is, of course, a renowned hotel, one of Japan's "Big Three" alongside the Imperial Hotel and Hotel Okura, opened in 1964 by Yonetaro Otani, then president of Otani Heavy Industries, who was requested by the government to secure accommodation for foreign visitors to the Tokyo Olympics.
The only branch in the world of the prestigious French restaurant "Tour d'Argent," established in 1582, is a place everyone dreams of visiting someday. More recently, the popular "Night Pool" in the summer and the exquisite cakes from "Patisserie SATSUKI," made with only carefully selected ingredients, have gained significant popularity.
However, for me, Hotel New Otani brings to mind its vast arcade. Hotel New Otani is composed of three buildings: The Main, Garden Tower, and Garden Court. The "Lobby Floor" connecting The Main and Garden Tower, and the "Arcade Floor" below The Main, are what I'm referring to, and it's easy to get lost. If you enter from the front of Akasaka-mitsuke Station, it takes about five minutes to reach the Arcade Floor.
If you enter from the Kioizaka entrance, you're there immediately, but it's better to get lost here. I want to enjoy the journey through the shops, from fashion and jewelry boutiques to galleries and salons, cafes, tonkatsu restaurants, soba noodle shops, and yakitori places.
However, it's probably rare for a high-class hotel to also house a yakitori restaurant.
That yakitori restaurant is "Isehiro," a long-established establishment founded in 1921, with its main branch in Kyobashi. It's straightforward and classic, without any pretense. The aroma of binchotan charcoal is exquisite, and to put it simply, it's fluffy and juicy. This exquisite yakitori donburi and rich chicken soup can be enjoyed from the counter overlooking the grill, even at lunchtime. It makes for the perfect lunch.
Furthermore, if you have the time and a relaxed state of mind, there's no reason not to visit the vast Japanese garden. With a history of over 400 years, originating from the secondary residence of Kato Kiyomasa, this approximately 10,000 tsubo Japanese garden is said to be one of Tokyo's renowned gardens. Visiting in early summer, the dew falling from the lush green trees carries a fragrance that can soothe the soul.
Incidentally, for about three years in my late twenties, Akasaka was my workplace. I was working for a PR company at the time. Times were different then, and I would often stay up late, sometimes all night, writing proposals. So, unfortunately, I never knew about the exquisite yakitori donburi or the scent of early summer dew. However, even if I had known, I wouldn't have had the time or mental space to savor them.
Around the time I quit my job and stopped working in Akasaka, I believe in 2014, "Toyo-ken," located in the K Tower next to Toyokawa Inari, is a place I wanted to visit at least once.
At the time of its opening, it generated considerable buzz as Chef Hiroyuki Narisawa of "NARISAWA" served as the executive chef. Even without that, the original Toyo-ken, founded in 1889 during the Meiji era, is a pioneer of Western cuisine in Japan.
It is said to be the birthplace of cream croquettes. Considering that 1889 was the year the Constitution of the Empire of Japan was promulgated, establishing Japan as a nation of law, one can understand its deep historical significance.
The Western cuisine, elevated with simple and modern flair, is both classic and light. It's a meal to be savored on a day when one has the luxury of time.
Speaking of which, when I was working in Akasaka and didn't have much time, I often ate Su-la-tanmen. I ate it frequently, day or night.
"Eirin" is said to be the origin of Su-la-tanmen. Surprisingly, Su-la-tanmen doesn't seem to exist in China. It originated as a staff meal at Eirin and then spread to become what it is today. Eirin gets crowded during lunchtime, so it's best to go around 1:00 PM.
I believe that the quality of a restaurant's Su-la-tanmen is a clear indicator of its overall taste. While few ramen or fried rice places are truly bad, restaurants that serve bad Su-la-tanmen are glaringly obvious.
It just feels like putting painful spiciness and painful sourness into your mouth at the same time. However, Eirin's version is, of course, delicious. It has a refreshing spiciness and a gentle sourness, with a rich umami and a perfect thickness. You can drink all the soup, and after eating, a light sweat breaks out. You can fully enjoy a sense of satisfaction and exhilaration.
For late-night Su-la-tanmen, it was "Yangzhou Shōnin." Although it's a chain with over a dozen locations in the Kanto region, don't underestimate it. Their quality is consistently high.
I always went around 1:00 AM. When I was engrossed in work, missed the last train, and realized I was unintentionally doing something like a half-day cleanse (fasting). I didn't have the energy or time to go for yakiniku the next day, but I didn't want to eat nothing... I went there so many times in those situations.
Compared to Eirin, it's junk food. But late at night, a bit of junk food is good. The strong umami and the soft, fluffy beaten egg released the accumulated fatigue and frustration.
At the time, "Toyokawa Inari," located very close to my office, was a healing lunch spot. To be precise, Toyokawa Inari refers to Myogonji Temple in Toyokawa City, Aichi Prefecture, so this is its only directly managed branch temple, "Toyokawa Inari Tokyo Betsuin."
Generally, when people hear "Inari," they imagine a "shrine where foxes are worshipped," but this is said to be a temple. It enshrines a branch spirit of Toyokawa Inari, which Lord Okajima Echizen worshipped. It was relocated from the Ooka residence in Akasaka-mitsuke to its current location in 1887. Since Akasaka prospered as a district of traditional Japanese restaurants in the Meiji era, faith from those involved in arts and entertainment grew. It is known today for attracting worship from celebrities and athletes, making it the current Toyokawa Inari. "Kikuya," located within its grounds, was a place I frequented.
There are three similar establishments lined up at Toyokawa Inari, and Kikuya is the one closest to the entrance. They serve udon and soba noodles for an affordable price of 500-600 yen. For an additional 100 yen, you can get a side of cha-meshi (rice cooked with tea).
The taste is very simple and natural. The grandmothers who run the place are always kind and warm. Even if there are no other customers, you can be comfortable in silence, and if you speak to them, they will engage in conversation.
We often hear about "communication skills" and "personal boundaries" these days, but I feel that the essence of these things, which we tend to forget when we're busy, is found here.
That's why I still feel drawn to stop by whenever I visit Akasaka. Taking a moment to enjoy the sweetness and gentleness of anmitsu or mitsumame here is my time of peace.
Now, Akasaka is home to the master of Japanese sweets, "Toraya," and one of my favorite Western confectioneries, "Shirotae." Toraya needs no introduction. The Akasaka branch, built in 1964 and recently renovated in 2018, is the flagship store. I haven't visited since the renovation, but I'm sure I'll have the same enjoyable time as always.
Shirotae's signature, the raw cheesecake, is exquisite. It has been made with the same recipe since its founding in 1976. It's affordably priced at under 300 yen and looks a bit small. At first glance, it might seem insufficient for a man, but no, the taste is incredibly rich and moist, as if you were eating cream cheese directly. The slight acidity is perfectly mellow. This is a sophisticated balance of enjoying a refined, high-quality sweet made with excellent ingredients, stripped down to the essentials and crafted with care, which makes me appreciate the wonderfulness of being an adult.
Akasaka, which flourished as a district of traditional Japanese restaurants and the geisha quarter, and adorned the bubble era in the late Showa period, now bears little resemblance to its past. It is increasingly becoming an office district, with many companies, including Yahoo!, establishing their bases here. Rather than changing with the times, it gives the impression of barely keeping up while risking being left behind. However, no matter how times change and the town transforms in the future, I hope that the people and renowned establishments that have endured and are loved through these changes will remain.
Hotel New Otani
Address: 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3265-1111 (General Inquiries)
Isehiro Hotel New Otani Branch
Address: The Main, Arcade Floor, 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3221-4101
Hours: Lunch 11:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Dinner 5:00 PM - 9:30 PM, Open daily
Akasaka Eirin
Address: 3-16-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3583-0171
Hours: Weekdays 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM, 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM
Saturdays & Holidays 11:30 AM - 2:00 PM, 5:30 PM - 9:00 PM
Closed Sundays
Yangzhou Shōnin Akasaka
Address: 1F Miyako Bldg., 3-17-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3583-2544
Hours: 11:00 AM - 4:30 AM (next day), Open daily
Kikuya
Address: 1-4-7 Motoakasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3408-2363
Hours: 9:30 AM - 4:30 PM, Open daily
IJICHI Yasutake
Vice President, Sunshine Juice Inc. Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. He then transferred to a PR company, where he engaged in planning and managing marketing communications and branding from a PR perspective. He quit his job at age 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school, he co-founded "Sunshine Juice," Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and currently holds his position. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are old-fashioned coffee shops and casual bars.
Instagram:ijichiman