Exploring Western Australia by Self-Drive (Part 2) | TRAVEL

LOUNGE / FEATURES

June 6, 2019

Exploring Western Australia by Self-Drive (Part 2) | TRAVEL

TRAVEL | A World of Miraculous Everyday Life, Explored by Self-Drive

Part 2: Western Australia, Traversing the Colorful Outback

Western Australia, also known as "The home of the road trip." The joy of driving through vast nature is surely a driver's dream. Following the roads leads to magnificent nature and beautiful landscapes, including wine regions and world-acclaimed coastlines, making it popular for comfortable self-driving even for travelers unfamiliar with the area. With excellent camping facilities, many Perth residents casually tour the state by car during their holidays. Direct flights from ANA to the state's gateway, Perth, have been operating since September, connecting Narita and Perth daily. We encourage you to take this opportunity to use Perth, also called "the most beautiful city in the world," as your base, drive through the vast and wild Golden Outback, and experience the true face of the Australian continent.

To Western Australia by Self-Drive (Part 1)

Text by MAKIGUCHI June

To Esperance, Beautifully Facing the Southern Ocean

Western Australia occupies about one-third of the Australian continent. More than half of this is the vast area known as the "Golden Outback," considered the jewel of the west. A car is the best way to travel this region. However, due to its immense size, it's difficult for busy Japanese travelers to see it all at once. Therefore, we would like to introduce a journey that allows you to experience the essence of this area. The base for this trip is Esperance, a town located 720 km southeast of Perth's city center, about an 8-hour drive away.

If you want to enjoy the journey to Esperance, driving there is a good option. However, if you prefer to arrive at your first destination with plenty of energy, why not fly there?

It's a 1.5-hour flight from Perth Airport by small aircraft. From the airport, rent a 4WD and begin your self-drive adventure in the outback.

While Perth faces the Indian Ocean, Esperance borders the Southern Ocean. Dazzlingly white sandy beaches stretch endlessly alongside a sea of vivid turquoise blue that will widen your eyes. The scenery is dreamlike, making it understandable why it's considered one of Australia's most beautiful.

A 40km coastal self-drive route called "The Great Ocean Coastal Drive" is set up from the town center. This route features a wonderfully smooth stretch of road, which some call Australia's most beautiful straight road, delighting drivers.

Following the coastal road, you'll discover one stunning beach after another, all offering views of the crystal-clear sea beloved by locals. These include Twilight Beach, where the sunset reflects on the rocky shore; Eleven Mile Beach, accessible by 4WD; and Blue Heaven Beach, a paradise perfect for snorkeling and sunbathing.

What's unbelievable is that you can enjoy most of these places in tranquility. The scarcity of people is a fortunate experience only available to those who venture from Perth. Driving here is truly a dreamlike experience.

Furthermore, a 30-minute drive east from Esperance leads you to Cape Le Grand National Park, where you'll find rocky hills, unique rock formations, sand dunes, and dense native forests teeming with rare Australian flora. This national park, covering 3,200 sq km, is adjacent to the sea. Pay the fee according to your vehicle type at the self-service payment station. Many roads are well-paved, and locals frequently use 4WDs for transport, making navigation easy for your road trip. As long as you adhere to the rules established to protect the wild ecosystem, you can enjoy a free and casual drive.

As you drive along the coast, Frenchman's Peak, a rocky mountain shaped like a hat, comes into view. This mountain, suitable for trekking, was named in 1870 by surveyor Alexander Forrest. It was named after the hats worn by French soldiers in the 1800s, fitting for a land with French connections. Incidentally, the first Westerners to land in Esperance were French explorers. They named the ship they arrived on "Esperance," meaning hope, after surviving a storm at sea and managing to land.

Near the summit of Frenchman's Peak is a large cave, formed by waves and currents when it was submerged underwater about 40 million years ago. The indigenous people believed it was a protective entity, seeing it as a condor's head. It is an important part of their culture.

Among the many attractions in the park, Lucky Bay, known for its iconic "kangaroos on the beach," is a must-visit. Among Australia's many beautiful beaches, this coast holds the title for "whitest sand." The powder-like sand, rich in silica, feels like powdered sugar rather than sand, and it squeaks when you walk on it. The sight is divine, like arriving in paradise, and truly picturesque.

It is said that wild Western Grey Kangaroos can live here because freshwater springs up, which is unusual for a beachside location.

©Tourism Australia

The morning is the best time to see kangaroos leisurely playing on the white sandy beach. In the afternoon, as the temperature rises, they tend to rest in the shade of cars.

Yes, you can actually drive on this beach. Also, at this beach, you'll find the "Lucky Bean Cafe" truck. Here, you can enjoy authentic coffee brewed by a barista alongside wild kangaroos in a paradise-like setting – a unique experience. Be sure to allow ample time to relax. While the kangaroos, the idols of the beach, are accustomed to people, always remember to respect nature and never feed or touch them unnecessarily.

©Sean Scott Photography

As many of you may know, Australia is a camping nation. Camping sites, including beachside ones, are available within the park, equipped with excellent facilities such as camp kitchens, barbecue areas, tables, clean toilets and showers, and running water. Consequently, campsites near popular beaches like Lucky Bay are highly competitive. If you plan to tour with a campervan, be sure to book online in advance.

©Tourism Australia

If you're hesitant about driving, joining a guided drive tour is also recommended. You can experience thrilling activities like ascending and descending snowy white sand dunes in a 4WD and sandboarding, or even rock climbing a massive 46-meter high rock face while in your vehicle. Private tours can be tailor-made. A guided tour offers the unique pleasure of hearing local insights and interesting stories, as well as visiting secret spots known only to locals. For inquiries, contact Esperance Eco-Discovery Tours. Half-day courses of about 4 hours start from $105 per person.

If you've come all the way to Esperance, there's one more place you absolutely must visit: Lake Hillier, known as the Pink Lake. It's a vibrantly pink lake, 600 meters long, located on Middle Island, part of the Recherche Archipelago off the coast of Esperance, about 130 km from the mainland.

Depending on the weather, it can appear purple or silver, but the algae in the water reflect sunlight, creating its beautiful glow. You can take a cruise and land on the island, but we highly recommend approaching from the air by plane. Enjoy a scenic flight that offers aerial views of numerous beaches, including Lucky Bay, flies along the Southern Ocean coast of the Australian continent, then departs from the coast towards Middle Island.

The astonishment upon seeing the unbelievable pink color, and the overwhelming emotion upon taking in its entirety, are beyond words. The vivid pink spreading out below, surrounded by green, and then the clear blue sea, white waves, and sandy beaches beyond create a breathtaking contrast.

Witnessing the astonishing spectacle created by nature naturally evokes respect and awe for the environment. It's an experience that makes you understand, perhaps for the first time, why Australia is a leader in wildlife conservation. The approximately 90-minute journey from Esperance Airport (Adults: $385) can be booked with Goldfields Air Service.

Alternatively, why not take a cruise to fully enjoy the turquoise waters and encounter wildlife? Esperance Island Cruises will take you to areas where dolphins and whales swim, and closer to islands inhabited by Australian sea lions, sea eagles, and seals. If the weather is good, they will anchor at Lovers Cove, Blue Haven, etc., allowing you to swim and snorkel. The marine life you can observe changes with the season, so be sure to check in advance if you have specific animals you wish to see.

Don't forget to try a hearty breakfast, a local Australian comfort food, at Ocean Blue Café & Restaurant, featuring dishes like avocado toast and spaghetti on toast.

After enjoying your time exploring the town and playing in the water, consider driving back to Perth. The 8-hour drive from Esperance to Perth takes you inland. If you stop for an overnight stay (or several!), you can witness the sunset over the red earth. The Australian red sunset, unlike any sun color seen in Japan, is truly dramatic and unforgettable.

While you'll bid farewell to the clear sea for a while, the roadside attractions inland also offer delights for travelers. On the outskirts of Ravensthorpe, a town famous for its wildflower festivals located about two hours from Esperance, you'll find a flour mill with giant painted silos (grain storage facilities).

The area from Esperance to Perth is a major wheat-producing region known as the Wheatbelt. In fact, much of the wheat used for Japanese noodles like udon and ramen is an Australian variety called ASW, commonly known as Noodle Blend, from Western Australia.

Over 90% of the wheat for Sanuki udon comes from this state. Leveraging this characteristic as a center for agriculture, there are currently four such art silos. These were created by four artists commissioned by "FORM," an organization that raised funds through private donations.

In Ravensthorpe, in 2016, the Banksia wildflower was boldly painted across three adjacent silos over nearly a month by local artist Amok Island. The paint used to depict the flowers, reaching a height of 25 meters, amounted to 338 liters. The FORM website also features videos showcasing the silo trail and the creation process.

As you head inland towards Perth, taking a break in small towns, make sure to stop in Hyden, about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Ravensthorpe. From here, Perth is just 344 km away, practically around the corner. If you can only stay one night, this is the place to choose.

On the outskirts of town lies Wave Rock, a massive single rock formation that many people visit from the capital for a day trip. Despite being inland, a big wave that makes you want to surf suddenly appears amidst the eucalyptus forest.

This rock, believed to have formed 270 million years ago, has a shape that looks like a wave about to break. This 15-meter high wave extends for about 110 meters. Its unique form, created by nature, is truly awe-inspiring. Surrounding this area are other uniquely shaped rocks, such as "Hippo's Yawn," resembling a yawning hippopotamus, and "Mulka's Cave," which contains ancient Aboriginal handprint murals. These places allow you to experience the history and culture of the indigenous people firsthand.

Staying in quiet rural towns near Wave Rock allows you to fully enjoy the magnificent natural scenery, including dynamic sunsets, star-filled night skies, and breathtaking sunrises. This is one of the unique pleasures of a leisurely self-drive journey.

This time, we've introduced Margaret River (Part 1) and Esperance (Part 2) as recommended spots for a trip based in Perth. Western Australia is rich in places where you can feel the earth's energy. There are still many more sights to see, such as "Kalgoorlie," a wilderness said to hold gold veins, and "Mount Augustus," which surpasses Uluru as the world's largest single rock formation. An unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience awaits you in Western Australia.