Niizawa Brewery: Crafting the Ultimate Sake for Dining

Yusuke Tomoki (hereinafter, Yusuke)Founded in 1873, you have a long and rich history. How many generations have led Niizawa Brewery?

Iwao Niizawa (hereinafter, Niizawa)My father passed away in 2011, making me the fifth generation. It was the same year as the Great East Japan Earthquake, and also the time we were relocating the brewery, which was built in 1873. While the brewery itself didn't collapse, its pillars and foundation were tilted, leaving it in a state of devastation. Tens of thousands of sake bottles that had just been filled were broken, and the sake maturing in large tanks was mostly discarded. It was truly a start from zero.

YusukeI can only imagine the scale of that disaster. It's truly remarkable that you not only overcame such immense damage but also rebuilt and achieved new growth. Did you launch "Hakurakusei" around that time?

Niizawa"Hakurakusei" was launched in 2002. At that time, the business environment was challenging due to debts accumulated during my father's tenure. We were managing somehow when the earthquake struck. We built a new brewery in Zao, about 70 kilometers from the original site, and despite the burden of debt for the new facility, we've managed to persevere until today.

YusukeI see, that was the situation. I've been participating in this event, "The Master of Craft Sake," organized by Mr. Hidetoshi Nakata, since the previous installment featuring Juyondai, and my perception of sake has completely changed. What are your thoughts on this?

NiizawaEvents like these for sake are actually quite common overseas. We participate in many of them, but conversely, there are fewer in Japan. While high-end events costing over 500 euros are the norm abroad, many events held in Japan, with participation fees around 3,000 yen, feel more like promotional activities. This naturally attracts a certain type of audience. Personally, I believe there should be a range of events, from those costing 1,000 yen to those costing 100,000 yen. With the growing interest in sake recently, it's encouraging for us as it pushes us to improve.

YusukeHow long have these kinds of events been held overseas?

NiizawaFor 10, even 20 years. The attendees are definitely engaged and interested. Most of them are already sake enthusiasts.

YusukeIn which countries are they most frequently held?

NiizawaFor example, Australia. Previously, tariffs were strict, but with deregulation, sake exports have been increasing. Japanese cuisine has always been popular, and while some restaurants used to serve it with wine, many now pair it with sake.

YusukeThe combination of sake and seafood is also superb, isn't it?

NiizawaFurthermore, countries with a positive impression of Japan tend to have swift customs procedures. If the process takes too long, the quality of the sake can significantly deteriorate, leading to a poor impression among locals. Hong Kong and Taiwan are particularly effective markets for ensuring people enjoy sake as delicious. The US and Europe are also showing growth.

Page02.A New Category: "Shokuchushu" - Sake That Complements Meals and Never Tires the Palate

A New Category: "Shokuchushu" - Sake That Complements Meals and Never Tires the Palate

YusukeI hear sake is also very popular in London.

NiizawaIndeed. There's a deep respect for alcohol there. However, in the last two to three years, I've noticed a remarkable passion for sake in France.

YusukeMany French people also enjoy Japanese cuisine, don't they?

NiizawaAmong the Latin cultures, the French approach Kaiseki cuisine with genuine seriousness. Perhaps the French themselves have changed. In the past, they seemed to have a tendency to praise but not fully embrace, showing little respect for other cultures. After the terrorist attacks in November 2015, they began asking earnestly, 'What do you think of France, of Paris?' You can sense their desire to improve, even while acknowledging their country's vulnerabilities.

YusukeDid you visit France after the attacks?

NiizawaActually, I was in Paris during the attacks. While watching the news at the hotel near the Louvre Museum where I was staying, the broadcast suddenly shifted to breaking news, and there was widespread panic. To be honest, I didn't fully grasp what was happening. The next day, I was heading to Bordeaux, but all forms of transportation—trains, taxis—were paralyzed, making travel incredibly difficult. There were many soldiers with guns, and an palpable sense of unease permeated the city. Security checks were stringent. I was worried because being overweight might make one seem suspicious, as if hiding something under their clothes. Then, the person in front of me was apprehended.

YusukeWere you there for business?

NiizawaYes, it was a trip to France with my employees, partly for wine studies. Many of the young people who join our company now are from the Kanto region. I understand that from a parental perspective, they might wonder, 'Why would our child, after graduating from university, join a small company in Tohoku?' Therefore, I believe it's important to gain the approval not only of the individual but also of their entire family. We have a strict two-day weekend policy, and overtime requires prior notification. There was a time when working non-stop with stoicism was considered ideal, but I believe balance is crucial. I ensure our employees take paid leave each month to visit their families. Some who go home more than once a month are apparently told by their parents, 'You're back again?'

YusukeThat's a wonderful company.

NiizawaMoreover, even in a rural area, you want to maintain a certain pride, don't you? I'd be happy if a father could say, 'My daughter got a job in Miyagi, but now she's on a business trip to France,' and feel proud.

YusukeHis daughter must be a source of pride for him. It sounds like a dream profession.

NiizawaThat's what I aspire to be.

YusukeI think that's wonderful. What are the distinctive characteristics of the sake produced by Niizawa Brewery? Is it perhaps "Hakurakusei"?

YusukeEstablishing a new category like this is a truly remarkable achievement. Does a clean finish relate to whether it's dry or sweet?

NiizawaConversely, some dry sakes can leave a lingering sharpness. And some sweet, mellow sakes make you want to take another sip, encouraging repeated enjoyment. It's like a captivating beauty in a drink. In fact, those are often more vibrant. I want to continue making sake that makes people want to re-examine its taste.

YusukeWhen does sake brewing typically begin each year?

NiizawaWe aim to be a brewery dedicated solely to brewing, so with complete refrigeration facilities, we produce sake for 11 months of the year. Only July is dedicated to making umeshu (plum wine).

YusukeLike "Hakurakusei," the bottles have a feminine quality. They don't evoke a masculine feel. Is this part of your branding?

NiizawaActually, a woman is responsible for the calligraphy. We want it to be elegant and refined. Since we are fully considering global expansion, we aim for the labels to be competitive in international markets.

YusukeThat aligns with Hide-san's aspirations.

NiizawaThe level is different, though. On home turf, you might want to win by defeating rivals. But overseas, it's more about working together with rivals. I believe that approach is purer and better. I want us to be colleagues, rivals, and companions simultaneously.

YusukeThat broadens the possibilities, doesn't it? When competing on a global scale, if one person wins a title, we congratulate them.

NiizawaExactly. I want to compete purely, rather than through organizational strength. If we stay true to our beliefs, I believe we can overcome any challenges, even when we feel lost.

YusukeFinally, do you have any future goals?

NiizawaIt's about learning from the past to inform the future. While cherishing what should be preserved and what needs to change, I want to proceed steadily without resorting to gimmicks. If flashy methods lead to increased numbers, it can become like a drug, making one crave even stronger stimuli. I try to avoid over-exerting myself, focus on the fundamentals, and strive to do something just slightly different each day.

YusukeWhen you say 'fundamentals,' what do you mean?

NiizawaFlashy things attract attention, but I want that attention to be solely for the quality. Not because it's featured in a magazine or on TV, but because it was so delicious that people want a second glass. That's what I'm striving for.

YusukeThank you for sharing such wonderful insights today.

NiizawaThank you as well.

• To the "Yusuke Tomoki & Editor Great Demon King Dialogue" series