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January 15, 2016
Yota Tsunoda | Tokyo Romantic Izakaya | The Ninth Tagui Shokudo
Designer Yota Kakuda's Guide to Beloved Tokyo Eateries
Tokyo Romantic Izakaya: Episode 9 - Tagui Shokudo in Omori-cho
This installment of "Tokyo Romantic Izakaya," where designer Yota Kakuda guides us through Tokyo's drinking establishments, takes us to "Tagui Shokudo" in Omori-cho. Opened just last summer, this relatively new gem is located about a three-minute walk north from Omori-cho Station, not far from Kamata.
Photographs by SHIRAISHI KazuhiroText by KAKUDA Yota
A Small Eatery Evoking Nostalgia
"Tagui Shokudo" is situated in a corner of an area called Omori Lodge. The building housing the restaurant was designed by the architectural firm where the owner's wife works, and it received the Good Design Award in 2015. Upon opening the door, a cozy space unfolds with two counter seats and eight table seats.
However, the high ceiling prevents the interior from feeling cramped, and the texture of the solid wood creates a warm atmosphere, making it a design that would appeal to women.
First, while enjoying a medium bottle of "Aka Boshi" (Sapporo Lager Beer), we sample the "Pickle Trio": nukazuke (fermented rice bran pickles), small horse mackerel nanbanzuke (sweet and sour marinade), and soy-marinated egg yolks.
All the dishes are served in Kokuji-yaki pottery. Though handmade, the pottery and its pale gray glaze, which doesn't overtly display the maker's touch, are an excellent choice as they don't detract from the beauty of the food, the star of the show.
The selection of small side dishes is extensive, featuring items like dried daikon radish, simmered hijiki seaweed, and kinpira-style lotus root, all perfect pairings for sake. We transition to drinks.
The sake selection includes Junmai varieties from Gifu, the owner's home prefecture: "Kozaemon," "Mikasayama," and "Kyu-juku." To accompany our second and third glasses of sake, we choose grilled mackerel and grilled silver cod with saikyo miso.
Furthermore, the owner has a strong commitment to rice, stemming from his previous role at "Ohitsu Zen Tanbo," whose main branch is in Yoyogi. Set meals are popular, as are chazuke (rice with tea) and onigiri (rice balls).
This eatery is adorned with a collection of tasteful, vintage products chosen by the owner. For instance, the well-worn reservation slips and cash register, while evoking a sense of history, are in excellent condition. Particularly striking was the brass lock on the restroom door, its clear design featuring a semi-circular window that reveals information like segments of a pie chart.
As we enjoy our sake, the very cheerful proprietress returns from work and begins helping out at the restaurant.
"Tagui Shokudo" offers nostalgic, home-style cooking despite being a new establishment. We highly recommend a visit, perhaps a short trip from Shinagawa, or maybe after a business trip from Haneda.
Tagui Shokudo
3-21-5 Omori Nishi, Ota-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6356-5939
Hours | Lunch: 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM (Last Order 2:30 PM),
Dinner: 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM (Last Order 9:00 PM)
Closed | Sundays, Mondays, National Holidays
http://www.omori-lodge.net/shops/taguishokudo/
Yota Kakuda
Designer. Born in Sendai. Moved to the UK in 2003, gaining experience at various firms. Completed studies at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2007. After returning to Japan in 2008, he worked as a product designer for MUJI before establishing YOTA KAKUDA DESIGN in 2011.
http://www.yotakakuda.com/
Kazuhiro Shiraishi
Born in Chiba Prefecture in 1980. Studied under photographer Yoshihiko Ueda from 2007. Became independent in 2011 and has been active as a freelance photographer since.
