LOUNGE /
EAT
July 22, 2019
Essay Series | #ijichiman's Musings: Daikanyama Edition
The 8th Installment: Daikanyama, A Town That Maintains a Harmonious Stance Through Changing Times
“It is wrong to assert only the safety and security of the body, and to disregard the life and death of the soul and spirit” (Yukio Mishima) — In this series, Yasutake Ijichi, a board member of Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, delves into the human, earthy content of the town, which stands in stark contrast to the ultimate healthiness of Sunshine Juice, exploring its history, transitions, customs, and culture. The eighth installment navigates Daikanyama, a cutting-edge trendsetting hub lined with flagship stores of various brands, select shops, as well as trendy cafes and popular restaurants.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
A Town Loved by a Wide Range of People, From Young Generations to Adults
When I first became aware of "style," my initial destinations were Harajuku and Shibuya. This was when I was in junior high school. I would peer into every shop along Meiji Dori, from vintage clothing stores to select shops, searching for places that suited my taste.
After exploring the Harajuku-Shibuya area, my next frontier became Daikanyama. I believe it was when I was in my third year of junior high school that I first visited. The reason I went to Daikanyama was because "A.P.C." was there.
In "MEN'S NON-NO," which I religiously read every month back then, "Paul Smith," "agnès b.," and "A.P.C." were frequently featured. While the other two could be found in department stores, A.P.C. was only available in Daikanyama. At the time, however, the Fukutoshin Line didn't exist, nor did Tsutaya Books, and Daikanyama Address was either not yet built or just being completed, with the old Dōjunkai Apartments still standing. The number and type of people were vastly different from today, and frankly, I didn't even know how to pronounce "APC?" So, Daikanyama felt not just high-brow, but also psychologically intimidating.
I was hesitant to touch the merchandise, and there were stories of being met with a menacing glare if I were to drop anything. Yet, through these varied experiences, Daikanyama and I grew closer as a fashion destination.
Once I turned twenty and became an adult, my leisure pursuits shifted from "things" to "experiences," creating a new set of hurdles. Sipping a cappuccino at the terrace of "Cafe Michelangelo" or having a drink at the bar of "XEX" were among them. XEX closed a few years ago due to building demolition, but the time I took my juniors out for drinks there and tried to maintain a composed demeanor when the bill arrived was a valuable lesson.
Although I had grown closer to Daikanyama, turning thirty brought new discoveries. I found that the area around Namiki-bashi, where I had only known Supreme, surprisingly had many establishments where adults could relax and enjoy themselves. I was captivated by the exquisite and elegant allure of the terrines at "Les Enfants Gâtés," and I found myself resonating with the new, bold, and chic French style created by "Äta."
The hospitality is warm, as are the dishes that use organic vegetables from the chef's family farm. Each plate, from the carpaccio to the pasta and desserts, is prepared with care and presented beautifully. The happiness of adulthood lies in being able to spend enjoyable times in places like these, not just on special occasions, but on ordinary days as well.
"Hillside Pantry" also brings me joy. When I stop by without any particular plan, I might find fresh porcini mushrooms or a tin of tarako pâté – items that immediately catch my eye. "Chez Lui" is also a must-visit.
Chez Lui opened its first store in Daikanyama in 1975, which was around the time the Dōjunkai Apartments were still there. When I first came to Daikanyama, it had already been open for 20 years, but I don't recall when I first learned of its existence. If Chez Lui's sweet potato confection is available for a snack, it can make my entire day. Anyone walking past the shop in front of the station and seeing that display case would surely be unable to resist buying one.
Daikanyama presented me with various challenges, each of which I overcame with age as I grew closer to the town. The final hurdle I cleared was "Maison Paul Bocuse."
Paul Bocuse, arguably the world's most famous chef, passed away last year at the age of 91. Even after his death, the restaurant maintains its Michelin three-star status, a testament to its legacy as a renowned establishment in Lyon, France, holding three stars for over 50 years since 1965. In 2007, it partnered with "Hiramatsu," a company that has been at the forefront of Japan's gastronomy scene, to open its doors.
At the time, I was 25 years old and working at the event production company I joined right after graduation. While I was involved in producing shows and parties for various brands and had dealings with many so-called grand restaurants, "Joël Robuchon" and "Paul Bocuse" were in a league of their own.
Fortunately, I had the opportunity to taste their dishes through work-related tastings, but I longed to experience the ambiance and etiquette of these establishments in my private life. It was two or three years later that I first visited, and it was an authentic, classic French meal that exceeded all my expectations.
The signature dishes, such as "Sea Bass en Croûte with Sauce Choron"—a whole sea bass baked in a pastry crust—and the legendary "Truffle Soup Dedicated to V.G.E. at the Élysée Palace in 1975," which the chef presented to then-President Valéry Giscard d'Estaing at a state banquet when he received France's highest honor, the Légion d'honneur, in 1975, are profoundly moving experiences, both visually and gastronomically. It is an experience that allows you to fully appreciate the tradition and elegance that laid the foundation for modern French cuisine. It is a must-try at least once in a lifetime.
A.P.C., Hollywood Ranch Market, and Supreme remain in their places, and I never imagined in my teens that I would still be buying from them in my late thirties. Even now, if Chez Lui's sweet potato confection is available, I'm happy. Drinking a cappuccino at Cafe Michelangelo makes me feel somewhat luxurious, and Maison Paul Bocuse still makes me a little nervous.
Meanwhile, new spots that have become synonymous with the town, such as "Tsutaya Books," "SATURDAYS NEW YORK CITY," and "MAISON KITSUNÉ," have emerged, and Daikanyama seamlessly integrates with them. Even as the town's appearance and the flow of people change, its harmonious stance allows me to maintain the same friendly relationship with it as I did in the past.
Cafe Michelangelo
Address: 29-3 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3770-9517
Hours: 11:00 AM - (10:30 PM L.O.) Closed daily
La Fame
Address: DI Bldg. 1F, 8-15 Daikanyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-5459-1604
Hours: Lunch Weekdays 12:00 PM - 2:30 PM (2:00 PM L.O.)
Weekends & Holidays 12:00 PM - 3:00 PM (2:30 PM L.O.)
Dinner 6:00 PM - 11:00 PM (10:00 PM L.O.) *Sundays until 9:30 PM
Closed Mondays
Chez Lui
Address: 23-2 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3476-3853
Hours: 9:00 AM - 10:00 PM
Maison Paul Bocuse
Address: Daikanyama Forum B1F, 17-16 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-5458-6324
Hours: Lunch 12:00 PM - 3:30 PM (2:00 PM L.O.)
Dinner 6:00 PM - 11:00 PM (8:30 PM L.O.)
Closed Mondays (or the following day if it's a public holiday)
IJICHI YasutakeVice President, Sunshine Juice Inc.
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major luxury brands at an event company. He then moved to a PR firm, where he engaged in planning and managing marketing communications and branding from a PR perspective. He resigned at the age of 30. Together with his friend since junior high school, who is also the representative, he founded Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and currently holds his position. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
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